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Found 24 results

  1. After I will finish the Ural M63 I will begin a new project: my second Ural M72. I have tested the few spare parts I have in order to see if I have problems with the frame, but I am lucky, the frame is in a good shape:
  2. I have begun to rebuild a Dnepr 650 (I think MT11, year 1988) and convert to a Dnepr MT9 with that incredible 6V russian bike design. And it will became something like that:
  3. I am looking to rebuild the engine from my '67 (?) K-750M. I have never rebuilt one of these before, so I am looking for any tips/techniques/traps associated with this engine. I've been reading a lot of bike rebuild stories from this and other sites, but I haven't found a thread dedicated to rebuilding these engines. Any suggestions/advice?
  4. Hey guys, my 1963 KMZ K750 just blew one of the rear light bulbs, but there isn't written anything on them, so I just wanted to ask, if any one of you know what wattage the K750 uses for both the rear and break light, since I can't seem to find anything about it online :/
  5. so, my Dnepr k750 stoped charging the battery, the electronic charging relay from jan-buchwald.dk isn't something I can figure out how to see if it still works, but the dynamo is what that's confuses me. i have had it pulled apart, cleaned the brushes, cleaned the contacts on the commutator, checked it for shorts, checked the windings for any shorts or brakeges and resolderes them back in there exact locations that they where in before, checked the field winding, and everything checks out fine. i even tried to "flash" the generator, and no mater what I do, I can only get 0.15v DC when spin
  6. hello people of the internet. im strongly thinking about changing my k302 carbs out for either my old pair of original k37 carbs or the pz28 I have laying around. Since the K302 is running WAY to rich, and I have tried rejeting, rebuilding, new spark plugs, hotter spark plugs, timing, ignition you name it, but they just won't run "normal" and always foul up the spark plugs. So those got to go, but I wanted to know, if you guys recommend either the pz28 or the k37 pairs of carbs, when it comes to the size (24mm vs 28mm), since I have read that many people have stated, that 26mm should work
  7. hey guys, I have had some troubles with my carburetors the last couple of months. When ever I have been out and riding for more then lets say 15-20min. the spark plugs always turns sooty, like totally charcoal black, I have changed the main jet from a 200 to a 150, but the soot still occurs on the spark plugs on both cylinders, they are dry and totally black. I have tried with the needle bottomed out, but this only gives me around 5 more minuts or normal driving. I just feel like, no matter what I do, I just can't get my old k750 to run well again. Do I just have to buy a whole new set
  8. Hi, After many years of car-driving, I missed the flies in my teeth, and have recently bought another Russian combination (my last one was an IZH Jupiter). The "new" one was bought as a 1964 K750 - and that is what it says on the maker's plate. Now, though, I'm starting to have doubts: The seats have a big, horizontal spring, like an M72, not rubber dampers; The rear suspension is not swinging-arm, which it should be, according to the photos on b-cozz.com ; The sidecar front light is the same as on an M72 sidecar. Now, I know that a lot can change over 55 years. For instance, over th
  9. hello fellow people of the internet, i was wondering if any of you have encountered the same problem/symptoms as i have. i was on my way to a family birthday party on my dnepr k750, when the bike suddenly died on me, so i tried to turn the engine over, but the kickstarter didn't turn the engine over, but it did move and sounded like it always did from the gearbox, but it felt like, that the clutch didn't "grip" the enige, but more like 2 brake shoes was being pressed agains the clutch, much like a bicycle front wheel when you pull the brake on one of those, i even loosened the clutch cable a
  10. My dear comrades, For the victory of the socialism and for the greater good of the working class I have begun to work at the new project: KMZ K750 first model with the short frame. I have buyed this bike as parts, ones I had the frame, after that the sidecar, the engine, I have found a fork and a gearbox, I had the luck to find at a very good price two new Dnepr complete wheels and I am still buying... The bike has no document but I estimate the production year of the frame is from the '50s. I have started as always with the engine, I have picked a good engine housing with no cracks
  11. Comrades, I have succed to build an electronic ignition with good quality parts. I was inspired by the electronic ignition from BMW R65, sensor hall and CDI, mounted on parts designed by me: Parts mounted: This was the first test, just to test the functionality of the selected parts: After that the real tests: 1. 2. 3. 4. Soon, it will be ready for sale and you will forget about the ignition problems!
  12. Is anyone willing to be a test rider and provide feedback on a flat head engine still using 6 volts? I prefer someone located in the USA, bonus points for Wisconsin or surrounding location to speed up the process of test feed back. Here is the deal...If you would love a Power Arc based C5 ignition and have a 6 volt bike, lets talk. We need feedback on starting, smoothness at idle, performance at higher end of rpm range, and feed back on how the two curves compare. Changes in engine temperature would also be valuable. You will be using our newest coil rated over 100k volts and I will pr
  13. The past few weeks I have been working on a new ignition for the flat head models using the PM-05 ignition. Our goal is to remove the entire cable operated "points" type system and replace with a C5 ignition (Power Arc based). Since many of these will end up in non-English speaking countries, and probably in small villages, we insist on creating a kit that does not require any drilling or tapping, no camshaft modifications, and could be reversible. Easy to install, easy to use! Ken and Lorne Ulrich have engines, cams, and motorcycles for this project. I live about an hour away so we've be
  14. Since I have owned this bike the ride has been very bad. I realize that it is what it is, but I felt like the front may have damage because is it nearly impossible to compress the forks. So, I took apart the forks and found the usual problems. Bad seals and a lot of muck built up from a lack of maintenance. First off, where is the best place to buy a fork rebuild for these? It looks like there's not much to it, but I still need the main seal, an o-ring and the felt seal. Secondly, are there any tricks for cleaning up the years of abuse? The inside of the components are filthy, and I
  15. After posting now and again as things have come up, but after seeing the new forum I decided to make this a running thing. So, to catch up to where I am now... I got my 1967 K-750 (mostly, who knows what it started out as) a few years ago. Things started off great. I had some friends with similar bikes and we made good use of them. I had to do the usual: - Wheel Bearings - Changed the 301 carbs for K68s - Cleaned up the PP302
  16. NOS 1969 spotlights with dual use anti-aircraft blackout covers. Original box, butchers paper and QC slip. USD45 each or happy to look at a bulk discount if a club or group of riders can purchase together. Full details at: http://www.sidecarpr...i-aircraft.html Ride safe Ben Sidecar Pro
  17. I am selling my Ural M72 (year 1956) wich is completely rebuilt from zero. Price: 4500 euro (whitout shipping). Rebuilt engine with new pistons, Goetze rings, new timing gear, rectified tapets, rectified valves and seats, new bearings, new 12V generator with electronic regulator, new 12V wiring, modified camshaft for centrifugal advanced distributor ( I have also the original distributor), new final exhaust. The gearbox is in a very good condition, new bearings and seals. Final drive has new gears (8/37), new seals and the shaft has new cardan joint spider. The wheels have new spokes, re
  18. Does anyone have any advice on refinishing cylinders on side valve motors? I am working on an engine rebuild and I need to clean/refinish the cylinders. I was considering either getting them hot tanked/sonic cleaned at the machine shop, or sand blasted. Then I guess painting them with engine paint. I have seen what looks like un-finished cylinders. Cleaned and left natural. Is that a thing? I don’t mind patina, but I don’t want rust/flaking paint. What do you suggest?
  19. Hello My name is Lars Erik and comes from Denmark, I am the happy owner of a 63 'K750 I bought autumn 2006. Cosmetic I have only lowered the rear fender and moved the seat down and back out. Engine, gearbox and rear axle has been divorced by and assembled with new seals, but not renovated yet. The engine is the first to be renovated, as both oil seals are broken on the right piston. But otherwise she run really well
  20. I hope this isn't considered bad form, but I already wrote this all out on another forum. Looking for information and advice. I have ordered a few english translation manuals that I could find. http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=30442&p=369514#p369514 Long story, short. This is my first bike. I'm not overly concerned about fully restoring anything. I always liked old bikes. I'd like to get it running well again and spend some time tooling around on it.
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