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My Story

  1. After I will finish the Ural M63 I will begin a new project: my second Ural M72. I have tested the few spare parts I have in order to see if I have problems with the frame, but I am lucky, the frame is in a good shape:
  2. I have begun to rebuild a Dnepr 650 (I think MT11, year 1988) and convert to a Dnepr MT9 with that incredible 6V russian bike design. And it will became something like that:
  3. I am looking to rebuild the engine from my '67 (?) K-750M. I have never rebuilt one of these before, so I am looking for any tips/techniques/traps associated with this engine. I've been reading a lot of bike rebuild stories from this and other sites, but I haven't found a thread dedicated to rebuilding these engines. Any suggestions/advice?
  4. Hi guys/ladies, First time on the forum as I just bought me a 1995 Dnepr MT16 and from day 1 it seems I have trouble with the fuel supply to my carbs (K68). For some reason the fuel is not running into to filter house (first only on the right side, but now also on the left side!). But when checking the hoses and the fuel valve on the tank everything seems to be working fine. Fuel is freely running when disconnected from the fuel valve on the tank (with and without fuel filling opening covered), every hose is clean. The filters are not that clean, but I would expect the fuel to run down into the filterhouse even is the filter element should have been completely blocked. The day I got this bike I had problems this the fuel supply to the right carburetor, but I could drive with it. When running idle the motor would stopp after a long time running on idle. This problem disappeared when raising the rmp´s. So I drove it with a rather amount of RPM´s. I borrowed som carb tuning equipment to check my Idle balance. But now I do not get the bike startet due to missing fuel. Is there anybody out here who can help me with some good suggestions where to look to solve this problem? Looking forward to get this bike on the road...... Henk
  5. Hi! can you help me to find the equivalent oil and lubricants to be used for a Dnepr 650cc with engine MT10-36 and gearbox MT804? I attached pictures taken from MT16 manual. Premise I will use the bike in a temperature range from 10 °C winter till 40 °C summer, I made list below reading on-line. What is your opinion? - Front fork oil: SAE 10 - Motor oil: SAE50 or 20W50 from Harley Davidson - Gearbox oil: EP 80W90 GL4 - Rear drive and reductor at sidecar wheel: Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75W-140 Fully Synthetic Car Gearbox Oil Thanks
  6. Hey guys, my 1963 KMZ K750 just blew one of the rear light bulbs, but there isn't written anything on them, so I just wanted to ask, if any one of you know what wattage the K750 uses for both the rear and break light, since I can't seem to find anything about it online :/
  7. hello people of the internet. im strongly thinking about changing my k302 carbs out for either my old pair of original k37 carbs or the pz28 I have laying around. Since the K302 is running WAY to rich, and I have tried rejeting, rebuilding, new spark plugs, hotter spark plugs, timing, ignition you name it, but they just won't run "normal" and always foul up the spark plugs. So those got to go, but I wanted to know, if you guys recommend either the pz28 or the k37 pairs of carbs, when it comes to the size (24mm vs 28mm), since I have read that many people have stated, that 26mm should work best for these old SV engines, and I have read that many have been using the pz28 carbs. I haven't been able to find any information about the k37 carbs, when it comes to needle hight or jet size and all that. But also about, with size carb will work best for my old Dnepr, when comparing these 2 against each other. And if I go with the K37 carbs, should I use the original needle jet with the holes in the top of it, the one that the needles slides up and down in, or the pz28 needle jet, since the k37 is around 5mm longer (from the treads and up) compared to the pz28´s needle jets. The last thing, the k37´s jets say 150, but they look similarly sized to the pz28´s .92 jets, how big is this jet actually? since I can't find any information about, how big these old actually are, compared to keihin or Mikuni jets. the carbs: PZ28D (28mm) (PL10 stamped on the front?) main jet: .92 (properly need a 95 or 98 jet to work correctly) idle jet: ? (a screw with a taper in the end) ---------------------------------------------- K-37 (24mm) main jet: 150 idle jet: 04
  8. My Dnepr MT-16 has the 650 engine with a spin-on oil filter, never seen another one with this. Curious about when they started using them. It had an (original?) Russian filter on it when I bought it, since matched up and replaced with a Wix filter. Mounted on the right side of the block just to the rear of the front cover, almost touching the forward sidecar brace. Threaded side of filter is down. Looks original. I wonder if the oil drains out back into the crankcase every time it shuts off? I guess it doesn't matter as the 20 or 30 times I need to kick-start this @#%*$ before it runs would certainly pump oil thru everything. Hey....maybe that's it. The engine won't start until oil pressure builds up! Ha! Many thanks. Paul R. in Michigan, USA
  9. 198? Dnepr MT-16 650, nothing but trouble. Bought it in pieces, put it back together these last 3 months. Got good compression, but... Installed new russian electronic ignition, poor spark. Suspect bad hall sensor. Replaced it with original points/condenser/coil, got good spark at new NGK plugs, still won't start. Rebuilt Pekar K-68's, found nothing wrong, no start. Occasional pop or backfire. Tried starter fluid, squirting gas right into the intakes, nothing. Adjusted the points and timing to every possible setting. It's 65 degrees here, but I tried the chokes anyway. Voila!! Started and actually ran... ...for 10 minutes! Died, would not restart. Checked spark at plugs just to be sure, gone again. Tested old coil, it's bad. Jury-rigged a Bosch 12v coil, strapped it to the sidecar strut, wired it in, got good spark (again) at the plugs. But it will not freakin' start. Gas to the carbs is good, I used Tygon clear fuel line and clear filters, I can see the fuel flowing down. Tickle the carbs until gas dribbles out, pull the chokes, crank until my leg is sore, it'll pop once in a while but no start. Checked points and timing, still good. Tried starter fluid and gas squirted again, nothing. Pull the plugs, they're bone dry, so it's not flooded. I'm beyond fed up. Unless someone out there has ANY good idea, I'm going to shove this P.O.S. off behind the barn and forget about it for awhile before I lose what little is left of my patience. Sorry for the long rant, had to vent. Thanks guys. Paul R.
  10. So I am a part of a subculture that likes to dress up in dirty costumes, pretend that it's the end of the world and have adult fun out in the desert. Generally referred to as Wastelanding, it is a really fun hobby as you meet some incredible people and have some amazing experiences. I also use it to help support myself as I am a self employed costume maker. There are a few post-apocalyptic (PA) events around, the biggest and well known is Wasteland Weekend, with around 5,000 attendees and can be describes as Mad Max Burning Man. The event pictured here is called Detonation and is held on an area of private land called Uranium Springs out in the Painted Desert east of Holbrook, Arizona (it's on Google Maps). It's a much smaller event at around 400 attendees, but it's held on private land so people can build permanent structures there. Vehicles are a big part of PA scene and this was the first time I was able to take my Dnepr MT16 out to an event. I put so much work and stress into the past two months trying to get the motorcycle to work in time and with the help from this forum I was immensely proud of myself that I could make it running to take it out. I had so much fun romping around the desert there, taking my friends around on rides and seeing how many people I could pile onto the thing. With the addition of the little Swiss trailer that motorcycle came with, I managed to turn it into a little troop carrier and got 8+ people on it. There's still a lot of work to do on the motorcycle but I am so happy that I got to use it there. Here are a bunch of photos of the motorcycle at the event with some more on the way! ~Pat.
  11. Converted my Dnepr MT-16 to a Russian electronic ignition, can't get it to start. If I spin the cup-shaped rotor by hand (with the center bolt and drive washer removed) I get great spark at the plugs every time, but if it's bolted to the camshaft and I use the kickstart, nothing. Or at best, one weak spark every 4th or 5th kick If I spin the rotor fast, of twist it back and forth quick (so the steel slug passes the sensor), lotsa spark. If I twist it slower, like it would spin while kickstarting, no spark. New battery fully charged, copper core ignition wires, new NGK plugs. Clearance at the Hall sensor correctly set, but I've tried adjusting it in/out, no change. Went thru the full range of timing adjustment without effect. Considered going back to the old points/condenser unit, but dammit, I have great spark when the rotor spins faster. Bad ignition unit? It's brand new, no miles on it. Could still be bad I know, but.... Any help appreciated. Paul R.
  12. hello fellow people of the internet, i was wondering if any of you have encountered the same problem/symptoms as i have. i was on my way to a family birthday party on my dnepr k750, when the bike suddenly died on me, so i tried to turn the engine over, but the kickstarter didn't turn the engine over, but it did move and sounded like it always did from the gearbox, but it felt like, that the clutch didn't "grip" the enige, but more like 2 brake shoes was being pressed agains the clutch, much like a bicycle front wheel when you pull the brake on one of those, i even loosened the clutch cable and the gear shifter clutch screw thingy, just to be sure, that it wasn't any of those being problematic. But when i pulled the clutch, the kickstarter could move freely without any problems, i didn't hear any strange sounds or any different behavires from the motor, until it out of the blue died on my :/ but since i won't have time to get to work on it, for the next week, i thought that maybe some of you can tell me, if it is just the clutch that needs to be changed, or if any of you might know, if it can be something more then just that
  13. Does this saddle make my butt look big? I've got a 2000 RAM Dnepr, which since buying earlier this summer has been a wild hoot. However, there's one problem for longer rides: I'm 6'4", and the bike's bench seat is set too short for me to sit the front, and just a tad too far back to sit as if I were a passenger. So I sit pretty much on top of the hump. So I was thinking to myself, since I never will have a rear passenger, why not put a tractor seat on it. Sounds great, but the standard tractor seat doesn't sit any further back. Anyone have any ideas on how to offset the seat back a little ways? For that matter, does anyone have an idea where to get a tractor seat to start out with?
  14. A few years ago I acquired an interesting Dnepr MT-11. It was a kit-based bike and was barely ridden - it had only 23 Km on the odometer. The Dnepr started easily and ran well, but began to rust the moment it was exposed to the humid northern Michigan air. After just 1200 Km I decided that a rebuild was in order. I had previously completed 4 full motorcycle restorations, but in those cases the goal was a return to original condition. With the Dnepr, I decided that this project would be purely to satisfy my own tastes, not some stuffy judge with a clipboard. So, I took the path of a resto-mod, and the freedom felt fantastic. My goal was to bring some of the original German styling influences to the bike while preserving some of its Soviet heritage as well. With this project, I set out to change anything that I didn't like with the original motorcycle. That may offend some of the die-hard Russian Iron fans who prefer to leave these bikes as they were. My design inspiration was the 1930s BMW models with the teardrop fuel tanks and speedometers set into the headlight nacelle. Some changes were functional, some purely cosmetic. In no specific order, this is what I did: Stripped old paint - repainted with 2-part automotive primer and paint from Eastwood Replaced fuel tank with BMW-style tank, but applied KMZ badges Replaced headlight with BMW-style headlight Created a leather "battery box" from an old leather camera case Replaced rear fender lights and indicators with custom-fitted vintage-style round lights Replaced original 2-into-1 exhaust with high quality chrome headers and vintage-style fish tail mufflers Replaced valve covers with BMW-inspired polished aluminum valve covers Modified reverse lever, removing plastic knob and replacing with beech wood knob Replaced all wheel bearings with high quality Timken roller bearings Replaced ball bearings in steering head with tapered roller bearings Replaced telescopic fork with Dnepr leading link fork, but added a Ural reaction link for improved reliability Replaced points and condenser ignition with electronic ignition Replaced crude wheel rims with higher quality rims Replaced original spokes with stainless steel spokes with chrome-plated brass spoke nipples Discarded all original wiring and created a custom harness with automotive-grade wiring Added steel tool boxes to each side to contain electronics Added Soviet Volga car "leaping deer" emblem on tool boxes Replaced original fuse panel with new switched fuse panel, hidden in left toolbox Replaced all incandescent bulbs with LEDs Replaced thermal turn signal flasher with electronic flasher for LEDs Replaced Pekar K65 carburetors with K68s Replaced engine ignition cover with earlier model with older factory logo, and painted logo background red to match fuel tank badges Replaced original spark plug wires with vintage-style cloth covered wires Replaced original shocks with new Cut away original seat mount, battery ground toggle, and rear brake switch mount. Welded on solo seat spring mounts Replaced original seat with a hand-made leather seat with chrome springs Replaced all turn signals with polished aluminum bullet-style turn signals with LED lights Fabricated metal intake tubes from 60 degree bend polished aluminum tubing Replaced cardan shaft rubber disc with polished stainless steel covered rubber disc Replaced rear cardan shaft u-joint cover with chrome plated cover Painted blue plastic alternator cover with aluminum colored paint Replaced clutch and brake hand levers with vintage-style inverted levers Replaced gaskets and seals as needed Tin-zinc electroplated many steel parts, springs and fasteners for corrosion resistance Replaced all cables Replaced all rubber foot pads Replaced all brake pads Replaced rubber swing arm bushings on the motorcycle and sidecar Replaced horn Had sidecar seat professionally reupholstered with textured black vinyl with white piping Added sidecar floor ladder and automotive carpet Added decorative interior side panels to sidecar Added decorative leather straps to the raised areas at the rear of sidecar Added steel "Dnepr" name plate to sidecar rear, made from a "Dnepr 2" Soviet refrigerator name plate Filled many seams and gaps in sidecar body
  15. Here is what I know, please feel free to correct or inform me if I misstate or miss something. I acquired this bike in 2005. It has a Michigan Assembled Title of the same year. Paperwork I have for it says it is a Dnepro 650. From what I have determined, it is a 1985 MT-11 frame with a 650cc engine and 4speed trans. It has electronic ignition with kick start only. I rebuilt both carbs with kits from Arbelet Ukraine and installed new spark plus & battery his month. I have an owners manual, engine gaskets, wheel spokes and extra side car lights to go with it. It starts and runs well, brakes work ok but could use some improvement. Located in Wyandotte, Michigan Asking $3600or best offer. contact me at: fkrabach@gmail.com 734-672-2197
  16. As you may now the Ural/Dnepr gearboxes can have oil leaks through the clutch bearing housing of the gearboxes. The reason for that is the bearing housing wich is worn in the interior because of the movement of the clutch bearing: So I have dismounted the bearing housing from the gearbox, in order to do that the best way is to put a cylinder in the gearbox as a counter force, heating the area with a torch and after that you can extract whitout problems the bearing housing: So, a turner has machined this part and intoduced inside a cast iron cylinder which is more resistant the then aliminium:
  17. Hi All, I've fitted an MT804 gearbox with a reverse to my 1954 M72. I've read on the forum where someone fitted one which was very helpful, however i'm stumped as to where to put the rear brake spring as the new gearbox doesn't have a stud for it like the old M72 gearbox did. Any thoughts?
  18. Hi to All. A couple of weeks ago I became the owner of a Barn find project 1985 Dnepr Mt11 which I bought off the net from Latvia. I was pleasantly suprised when the bike arrived as it was complete as advertised and although rather shoddy looking, after a bit of spannering and ditching the stock coil, I managed to get it to run. My plan is to now strip out the motor and transmission for a rebuild and get all the chassis and tinware powder coated, but as I looked around the bike I noticed that It seems to have a breather modification that is puzzling me. On the right hand side of the timing chest, above the cylinder, just near to the hole for the coil wire, there is a pipe fitted into a hole which runs down into the engine at an angle. This pipe exits the hole and u bends downwards and has a length of plastic hose attached, the hose is open ended and just sits at level at the base of the engine. The standard breather pipe exits the engine at the back of the timing chest and is connected to the airbox as it should. Can anybody tell me why the front pipe has been added, the timing casing is definately made to have something fitted to the hole, but I cannot see any mention of this in any manual or see this pipe fitted in pictures of other dnepr engines. see atttached photos Any expert help would be gratefully received Cheers - Dave
  19. I have now a Dnepr engine, I'm not crazy about them but I think they are not so bad as the people are saying. This is the first Dnepr engine I am repairing, I will analyze it and I will do everything is possible to remove the design and manufacturing problems. I started with ckecking the cylinders and I found the reason why the engine was stuck, the water entered in the piston head through carburetors that were not sealed properly: The same problems on both sides.
  20. Hi, I'm new to the forum. I'm doing a complete restoration on a 1980 M10-36 sidecar rig (the bike was in disastrous condition)with the engine and gearbox now basically completed. New heads, cylinders, pistons, rings bearings, seals. Original crank, camshaft and lifters, although I could use a new camshaft f anone knows were to get a quality one. I have yet to get the engine started and it seems that the valve timing is off. The marks line up between the crank and camshaft timing gears, but at the start of the compression stroke the intake valves don't appear to be fully closed as there is a momentary puff of blowback through the carbs before compression builds. The new heads are apparently for the 650 OHV and were purchased through Henriksson. The rockers have a slightly longer reach, perhaps this has something to do with it. Has anyone experienced similar prolems? I gained a good bit of Dnepr knowledge on the gearbox and engine rebuilds if anyone needs assistance. Thanks
  21. I am selling my Ural M63 (year 1969) wich is completely rebuilt from zero. Price: 3000 euro (whitout shipping). Rebuilt engine with new pistons, Goetze rings, new timing gear, rectified tapets, new valves, guydes and rectified seats, new bearings, new wiring. The gearbox is in a very good condition, new bearings and seals. Final drive has new gears (8/37), new seals and the shaft has new cardan joint spider. The wheels have new spokes, almost new drums, new brake shoes, new bearings, new russian tires and tubes. The front forkes has rectified pipes, new seals and new bushes. The rear suspension has new shock absorber. The frame is in a very a good condition, it was not damaged. The bike is painted black with the white lines on the gas tank like the original one. For more informations you can ask or folow the link ( http://www.russianir...showtopic=15431 ) where you can find more than 500 hundred pictures with the rebuilt process. The bike has new documents recognized by UE legislation (Romania is in the European Comunity). Phone: 0040 736 128 764 Email: lznicu@yahoo.com Location: Bucharest, Romania
  22. I want a 750 sidevalve engine/ gearbox to complete my sidecar wheel drive outfit, it did not come with one, I don't want to stoop to a chinese one, no offence, the outfit is otherwise complete, tom 08 95718043
  23. Comrades, I have succed to build an electronic ignition with good quality parts. I was inspired by the electronic ignition from BMW R65, sensor hall and CDI, mounted on parts designed by me: Parts mounted: This was the first test, just to test the functionality of the selected parts: After that the real tests: 1. 2. 3. 4. Soon, it will be ready for sale and you will forget about the ignition problems!
  24. I'm reassembling my engine and the crank gear isn't marked as per my expectations and what I've seen on the internet. What I"m expecting is a solid line stamped into the cam gear that intersects with the crank gear thus allowing me to line the two gears up. What I'm seeing is a solid line stamped into my cam gear and a single circular dot imprinted on my crank gear. Obviously I'm dealing with some sort of frankenstein setup, but does anyone have any advice on the proper way to mate these gears? note: I am not confident that they were properly mated in the first place so putting it back together the way I found it isn't necessarily going to be the solution.
  25. I've had to take and re-fit my exhaust several times now, but it just keeps wobbling its self loose! I have the split O rings and the Gaskets and Tighten them up. I also use Exhaust Gunk to seal it - but it still wobbles loose. Any ideas or is there a better Exhaust solution to the 2 into 1 Dnepr than the baseball bat style MT16 Ukranian standard unit?
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