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Trinidad

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Posts posted by Trinidad

  1. On 6/18/2021 at 3:16 AM, Scott E said:

    Russian rims are horrible. You can find used and buy on-line but you may get a rim that's just as bad or even worse than the ones you have now. I used a press to straighten the side to side run out my rims had but the flat spots usually found where the rims are welded together are there to stay. What I did was true my rims as close as I could without the tire on the rim and ignored the flat spots. Then I mounted a tire on the rim and put it on my motorcycle balancing tool which I also used to check the rims for true. The tire will find a happy placement on the rim and sort of offset the flat spots. Turn the tire and adjust the spokes so the tire is running as true as possible on the poorly made rims. I know it sounds bad but it's all you can do without spending a small fortune buying good quality rims and the shipping that goes along with that. Then you'll need to balance the tire/rim because it will need it very much due to the rim run out just to get a true running tire that will not bounce going down the road.    

    Sounds like it might be quite hectic to sort out. Do you think that perhaps professional classic bike shops do this sort of thing? There's one or two near me that could deal with it.

     

  2. Have no pictures currently but there's numerous bent and flattened bits on my rims. Solo bike so 2 wheels. Where can I get new replacements which do not need refurbishing? Residing in the UK.

    As for the rear wheel, I think it's misaligned. Pictures should be uploaded by tomorrow. Because it's in the corner of my garage near some gym equipment it's hard to tell, but it seems that either the rear wheel or the rear fender is misaligned to the left or right a bit. Currently I am working from front to back with my things that need done on the bike but I think these are priority because it could greatly affect the ride of the motorcycle.

  3. On 5/26/2021 at 4:39 AM, luca.stere said:

    Front brake, I have made some adjustments on the brake shoes:

    20210424_163905.thumb.jpg.b4ebefa4720f66

    20210424_165546.thumb.jpg.97cd46b4048a1c

    20210425_111917.thumb.jpg.fe89bc540b339d

    I have made may own clutch cable and mount which are stronger then the original ones:

    20210424_132015.thumb.jpg.40648e124bec1b

    20210424_132010.thumb.jpg.d6cbfb7aa8131b

    20210424_132034.thumb.jpg.bfb8de297ed9f0

    20210424_155142.thumb.jpg.2564290644d463

    20210424_162438.thumb.jpg.5eb8fde850fb61

    I have worked also for the rear brakes:

    20210503_134515.thumb.jpg.8c0c3becb213a0

    20210503_134518.thumb.jpg.c19c0df8e61b2b

    20210503_134546.thumb.jpg.3ab57e734700f9

    Videos with the work:

     

    Thought that bike looked familiar. I believe I've commented on one of these videos a few days ago. About that brake shoe, it shouldn't be overlapping that lip, right?

  4. On 4/6/2021 at 1:24 PM, Vance Blosser said:

    Good advice from all. If you are having trouble tracing a wire from one end of the harness to the other, another tool that can help is a cable tracker. It consists of 2 pieces, a signal generator that you clip to the wire, and a receiver that detects the signal and thus the wire. Harbor Freight carries one and they are available at other places too. I would try the other methods listed first as it avoids the expense (about $25 US) but if you aren't having luck this can help. Here's a link to the Harbor Freight one:  https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html

    Thanks vance. After careful consideration and procrastination, I've decided to just go with making my own harness. I've found a reliable diagram to follow (many thanks to the pdf's of this forum) and I'll take it from there. Next I just need to learn how to take out and put back in the front and rear wheels, to inspect those bearings, and find how to install the rear brake system.

  5. 27 minutes ago, Scott E said:

    After so many years and so many people working on the bike I'd say the colors mean nothing. Worse it may have a new main switch that is nothing like the original and was replaced with a new switch from another model motorcycle. You just don't know until you start tracing it all out, which you will need to do. The easiest way to go about it is buy or make a simple test light connected to a 6 volt battery if you are keeping the motorcycle 6 volts or a 12 volt battery if you plan on upgrading to a 12 volt system. You can use one of the warning lights in the headlight as your test lamp. Start with the main switch in off position and check all connections making sure that none turn on your test light. Then switch it to ignition on and find the terminals that light up and mark them. Some main switches have a parking lights on position.  That position turns off the ignition power and turns on the tail lights and front clearance lights and allows the key switch to be removed. The other electrical devices in the headlight bucket are warning lights, the headlight, fuse, and the small clearance or parking light in the head light reflector. It's all shown in the electrical schematic you posted so once you figure out the terminals using your test light setup then you can see what colors they used. You could then keep whatever is there or change them to match what colors are shown. Here is a drawing of the test light setup with the switch being whatever switches are closed or open for the chosen position.

    9x1a8q9tmr.jpg

    Just to ensure I've read correctly, start off by only completing one main circuit, like the secondary or primary headlamp light, to see if the electrics are faulty, and go from there?

    One concern that I have is with the harness having pre lengthened wires. I'll have to try out each wire as I go to see if they can reach where they need to go, e.g make sure the green can reach the positive on the ignition coil, and if it doesn't, swap the headlamp wire with it etc. So I guess I'll do as you said, trace things as I go. 

    I've also noticed that the diagram I posted was for a K-650 and has an oil sensor, which mine doesn't have. Perhaps you have a reliable diagram to follow for an early K-750M somewhere? There is a colossal variation of them out there and quite frankly I have no idea which one is the most accurate.

  6. @Scott E Don't want to create a whole new thread for this, so hopefully you're fine with me tagging you.

     

    file.php?id=9008&sid=c92751269975b33b5fef2261ca3281ed&mode=view

    I want to do the wiring, I've bought a harness. There's six colours to the new harness, White, Black, Green, Red, Blue and Brown. Currently the wiring has the positive grounded and the negative connected to the positive terminal (despite it being a negative ground system) along with other serious issues, like the generator wires connecting to the battery directly. However, the wires dangling out the headlight currently, have 7 colours. All the ones listed above, with grey. 

    Since the harness has come with pre measured bits of wire, and I can't seem to find a diagram online with only 6 colours, perhaps you have some advice for the wiring? Thanks

  7. On 3/24/2021 at 1:26 AM, Scott E said:

    If you can't drive it on the road you could put the stand down and run it through the gears with the tire off the ground. That could give you an indication of proper shifting and clutch operation as well as checking the engine oil pressure and if the carburetors are setup correctly. The speedometer will function with the tire off the ground so you can watch it so you don't over speed the engine. If you hook up the alternator with a battery and regulator you can test it as well when it's running. Just connect a volt meter to the battery and if the voltage is around 14 VDC above idle the alternator and it's regulator is working. I hope you can get it running and driving and have it ready to go when you can start driving and register your Motorcycle. You will always remember your first motorcycle the rest of your life. Be sure and take a picture of you and the motorcycle together because you will find joy in it when you get old like me. Working on and getting that first motorcycle going makes it even better. I had to fix my first motorcycle too. It was about to be taken to a scrap metal yard when I asked if I could take it, and he let me.

    Soviet Steeds forum is filled with rich people that only know how to pay others to work on their motorcycles. It's also useless to try to help them because their mechanic shop fixes their motorcycles for them and no one else can do it as well in their opinion.   

    Come to think of it there's actually a reasonable amount of truth to that. I cannot find anyone else with a side valve Ural or Dnepr or KMZ on there, but as soon as I came here the first 4 other members I see have a side valve. And yeah, I'll put the stand down and run it like that.

    I have 2 more questions, if you don't mind.

    1, is that I can't tell if I have a K-750 or K-750M anymore. I saw this image (dark blue new looking bike, not mine) where the static arm is very long and goes to a hole in the frame,

    where my damper is a short arm, which sticks onto a little prong that comes out the frame, but it also has the hole you see below. Here's my picture. https://ibb.co/NVtjYL5

    And 2, how many wires are there meant to be for wiring a solo bike? Some people say 8, harnesses online have 6, and I have 7. So I'm a bit confused right now 😐DAMPER ASSEMBLY.jpg

  8. On 3/22/2021 at 1:37 AM, Scott E said:

    Do not be worried about going into the gear box. It's very simple in there. You will more than likely need new gaskets and seals if the bike has been sitting a long time. I have no idea why they have a zip tie on the clutch lever unless they thought it would spring apart when they removed the clutch cable.

    You need to pull out the clutch throwout bearing assembly and inspect it. Simply remove the Carter or split pin holding the axle for the clutch arm. Then remove the axle and then the clutch arm. Then pull out the plug the clutch arm pushes in and below that you will find a ring of ball bearings captured in a plastic or brass ring between two flat bearing plates the balls ride on when the handlebar clutch lever is pulled in. Don't be surprised if it's damaged. This is one of those assembly’s you keep as ready spare parts. The problem is mostly with the operator sitting stopped with the gear box in first gear and the engine idling. The throw out bearing assembly is located above the gear box oil level and receives oil only when the input or output gears are rotating. When you come to a stop for a red light or stuck in non moving situations you should always find neutral and release the handlebar clutch lever. This will allow the input gears to spin with the engine slinging oil inside the gear box to lubricate everything including the clutch throw out bearing assembly so it will have oil in it ready for you to pull the clutch lever in and start the bike rolling again.

    The out put shaft turns when the gear box is in neutral without being connected to the final drive from the viscosity of the oil in the gear box. It creates a sloppy sort of fluid drive between the gears in the gearbox.

    If the bike has been sitting then as others have commented the clutch plates could be stuck together or the throw out bearing could be damaged.

    Here is a drawing of the clutch throw out bearing assembly.

    Clutch_Release.jpg

     

    It's been a mere few days and already I've learned a huge amount more specifically about the older models than a while on Soviet Steeds. Wish I had the proper vocabulary range to thank you. What I'll do is drain the oil from the transmission and engine, pull the transmission out and un stick the clutch plates. 

    Instead of riding around in traffic since I'm not old enough to ride, and it's currently SORN (off the road, so not being taxed and not allowed on the road) alongside rusty wheels, a faulty unscrewing steering damper and no proper wiring, do you suggest that I just put the kickstand up and rev/run it in gears on the spot, and in neutral?

  9. On 3/19/2021 at 7:03 PM, stahlsau said:

    servus,

    if the engine / gearbox stood for a long time, the coupling plates can be rusted together. Sounds worse than it is, afaik mostly they are still usable, but it might need some force to unlock them. Or better - remove the gearbox and have a look. The gearbox is fixed with 4(?) bolts and can be removed while the engine stays in the frame.

    I'd remove the clutch lever and pull the rod and bearing off out of the hole, and then remove the bolts and finally the gearbox. The pushrod can be hard to remove because its hard to get a grip, so you can remove the gearbox bolts and fiddle with the pushrod to get it out. It's actually a pretty simple system, you'll understand by looking at it. And imo sooner or later you will have to remove it anyways, so why not now? It's fun 😉

    Imo it's not like the modern stuff where a hundreth inch can make everything fail and fall apart (:-)), and there are really good manuals with explosion drawings available. Well, inside the engine and gearbox it's becoming a bit more difficult, but everything else is manageable, I'd say.

    Anyhow, my insights come only from my own experience with my own rig which I rebuilt, so there are many guys out there who know much more than me. Listen to them if they say I'm writing sh$t 😉

    Maybe you could provide some of these diagrams? I'm a bit sh!t with them though to be honest, I've learned alot of stuff throughout the years through 3d models and other sorts of things, but never exploded drawings. Either way, I'm sure I can learn.

    I'm going to be honest, I'm a bit worried about opening up the gearbox because this is going to be my first EVER project vehicle, ever. The previous owner rebuilt the engine and gearbox, I'll probably call him tomorrow ask him a few questions but yeah, I'll do that. I understand the principles of a gearbox but I've never really been able to find proper resources for a KMZ gearbox, but as you said, I'll learn by looking at it. All I'll really have to do is probably document what I've done to dismantle it, then do the opposite when... Re-mantling? Forgot the word.

  10. 47 minutes ago, Scott E said:

    Some Dnepr Gear boxes have a semi automatic function. When you press down on the toe or heal pad a pin below the clutch throw out bearing arm presses the clutch arm disengaging the clutch for you. You can not use it in first gear with the bike stopped! In that case you must use the handlebar clutch lever to get the bike rolling. It does not work for the reverse gear as well. To use the semi automatic clutch function when up or down shifting and the bike is moving simply let off the throttle completely, press down firmly on the toe or heal shifting lever, then gently and slowly take pressure off the shifting lever as you add throttle just as you would do using the hand clutch lever. It's typically used when a firm grip on the handlebars is required. You can up or down shift without needing to remove a "Death Grip" on the left handlebar grip. Remember that Dnepr Motorcycles were originally built for military service and so the Driver may be operating the motorcycle at fearful speed on poor or no roads and loosening the grip on the handlebar could be dangerous under those conditions. There is an adjustment bolt and locking nut that needs to be adjusted properly if you intend to use the semi automatic clutch function. On the end of the clutch lever part #KM3-8.15503611 (Throwout bearing clutch arm) is a bolt and locking nut. The head of the bolt should be touching a pin sticking out of the gear box. Pressing this pin in with a long screw driver should indicate a necessary small gap. A small spring keeps pressure on that pin. The gap should be about the thickness of two credit or bank cards. You must check this clearance regularly! As the clutch wears from use that gap is reduced unlike the handlebar lever where the cable slack increases. If the gap disappears completely the clutch can slip and be burned up. If you do not intend to  use the semi-automatic function simply run the adjustment bolt into the clutch lever so the gap is very wide. To test for proper function simply press the toe pad down into 1st gear with your foot while you are standing beside the bike and push it forward. The clutch should be pressed in allowing you to push the bike forward without the clutch dragging at all as if the gear box is in neutral. When you take your foot off the toe pad the clutch should engage with the gear box remaining in 1st gear. When parked with the engine off with the bike in first gear you will need to pull in the hand clutch lever in order to find neutral for starting the bike running. It's very difficult to find neutral on bikes with semi-automatic Dnepr gear boxes without pulling in the hand clutch lever to defeat it's operation when not desired.    

    Dnepr-MT-Clutch-Release-Lever-Gearbox-Dn

    I appreciate the explanation. 

    Since you seem to know an incredible amount about these transmissions, perhaps you could explain for me, a newbie, why my clutch arm will not budge? You can see here https://ibb.co/9trzntq mine has been zip tied to what seems to be a mount for the cable to connect to the arm, but when I try pushing the arm in to disengage the clutch, no matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't move. Now, I didn't try a hammer or anything in fear that I was maybe doing something wrong, and I wouldn't want to cause damage doing something wrong. Could it be that maybe it's already pulled in? It's just that even when it's in gear and I turn the engine via the kickstarter (electrics and fuel have all been cut by the previous owner) the rear wheel turns on the kickstand, so I really don't know what to think.

     

    Edit: P.S, you see in this video that his output shaft turns even in neutral but seems to be on a bearing of some sort, as his hand is able to stop its turning. 

     

  11. I'm going to start with the gearbox since it's a smaller question.

    In some engine testing videos of these flatheads, you see people changing gears with the engine running and NO clutch. 

     How is this even possible without grinding? You can see the clutch lever doesn't even budge.

    Wiring questions

    This is my 1966 KMZ K-750. Solo, no sidecar. https://ibb.co/LxJvv0Q 

    Wiring by the headlamp: https://ibb.co/6gxX2mM

    Grounding on frame: https://ibb.co/PNRcxRs

    Previous owner has done the ignition electrics, but I have 7 coloured wires coming from the headlight. One which I assume is a red wire, but it's discoloured to the point I don't know if it's red or orange, and the other one is completely missing. According to the folks on Soviet Steeds, there should be a yellow wire, which I do not have. Other than the ignition wires, everything else has been cut off, so I might just have to strip out everything and buy a new harness.

    This is where things get even more confusing... Harnesses online have 6 colours while soviet steeds and diagrams have 8 colours, so it's driving me insane and I have no idea which one to follow for my KMZ. I'm horrible with electrics but everything mechanical is completely fine.

    In short, I need some advice on how many wires I need, what colours (if colours hold any true meaning), and some correct diagrams to follow as I'm totally lost right now. It would really suck if I'm unable to restore this solely because my lack of knowledge in terms of electrics. Currently the electrics are the only thing holding me back from completely renovating this bike in 2 years or less. Yes, I will be replacing that front fender too.

    Steering Damper

    Out of curiousity I adjusted the steering damper knob. Bit thick, I know, so the entire assembly came tumbling. Now I can't find any good pictures on how to put the thing back on, so if anyone is able to tell me what order to put it back on, angle and all, that will help alot.

    That's all for now, thanks guys.

  12. Searched for a bit for a front Telescopic Fork, in the UK so Europe, can't find one in good condition. One on the bike I've bought is rusted to hell and back and certainly not restorable.

    Also, I need to restore the frame, but I don't know how to take off the wires and cables which connect to the brakes, speedometer, battery and other stuff. I'm going to do a "soft" dismantle of the bike since the engine and transmission are in great shape, but I need everything mechanical off everything body related. Any advice on this for a newbie?

    Alongside that, it hasn't got the grips at all. Spark advance, Clutch handle, Brake handle is all there but not the grips so not only can I not rev the engine but I can't really ride it at the moment :P. Also, this has the older model handles, the ones that are on the outside, I'm not familiar with these or how to take them off.

    TL;DR I need to know how to install grips and reinstall the brake and clutch handles, dismantle the bike without destroying any wires or connections, and find a telescopic fork. Thanks forks.

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