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About Trinidad

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  1. Thanks vance. After careful consideration and procrastination, I've decided to just go with making my own harness. I've found a reliable diagram to follow (many thanks to the pdf's of this forum) and I'll take it from there. Next I just need to learn how to take out and put back in the front and rear wheels, to inspect those bearings, and find how to install the rear brake system.
  2. What diameter are the wires? I'm just going to make my own harness. From what I gathered this is the best course of action.
  3. Just to ensure I've read correctly, start off by only completing one main circuit, like the secondary or primary headlamp light, to see if the electrics are faulty, and go from there? One concern that I have is with the harness having pre lengthened wires. I'll have to try out each wire as I go to see if they can reach where they need to go, e.g make sure the green can reach the positive on the ignition coil, and if it doesn't, swap the headlamp wire with it etc. So I guess I'll do as you said, trace things as I go. I've also noticed that the diagram I posted was for a K-650 and has
  4. @Scott E Don't want to create a whole new thread for this, so hopefully you're fine with me tagging you. I want to do the wiring, I've bought a harness. There's six colours to the new harness, White, Black, Green, Red, Blue and Brown. Currently the wiring has the positive grounded and the negative connected to the positive terminal (despite it being a negative ground system) along with other serious issues, like the generator wires connecting to the battery directly. However, the wires dangling out the headlight currently, have 7 colours. All the ones listed above, with grey.
  5. Come to think of it there's actually a reasonable amount of truth to that. I cannot find anyone else with a side valve Ural or Dnepr or KMZ on there, but as soon as I came here the first 4 other members I see have a side valve. And yeah, I'll put the stand down and run it like that. I have 2 more questions, if you don't mind. 1, is that I can't tell if I have a K-750 or K-750M anymore. I saw this image (dark blue new looking bike, not mine) where the static arm is very long and goes to a hole in the frame, where my damper is a short arm, which sticks onto a little prong that com
  6. When you reach the wiring, how many colours are there supposed to be for wires, if it's a solo? My K-750's got 7, but harnesses online have 6....
  7. It's been a mere few days and already I've learned a huge amount more specifically about the older models than a while on Soviet Steeds. Wish I had the proper vocabulary range to thank you. What I'll do is drain the oil from the transmission and engine, pull the transmission out and un stick the clutch plates. Instead of riding around in traffic since I'm not old enough to ride, and it's currently SORN (off the road, so not being taxed and not allowed on the road) alongside rusty wheels, a faulty unscrewing steering damper and no proper wiring, do you suggest that I just put the kickstan
  8. Maybe you could provide some of these diagrams? I'm a bit sh!t with them though to be honest, I've learned alot of stuff throughout the years through 3d models and other sorts of things, but never exploded drawings. Either way, I'm sure I can learn. I'm going to be honest, I'm a bit worried about opening up the gearbox because this is going to be my first EVER project vehicle, ever. The previous owner rebuilt the engine and gearbox, I'll probably call him tomorrow ask him a few questions but yeah, I'll do that. I understand the principles of a gearbox but I've never really been able to fi
  9. I appreciate the explanation. Since you seem to know an incredible amount about these transmissions, perhaps you could explain for me, a newbie, why my clutch arm will not budge? You can see here https://ibb.co/9trzntq mine has been zip tied to what seems to be a mount for the cable to connect to the arm, but when I try pushing the arm in to disengage the clutch, no matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't move. Now, I didn't try a hammer or anything in fear that I was maybe doing something wrong, and I wouldn't want to cause damage doing something wrong. Could it be that maybe it's already
  10. I'm going to start with the gearbox since it's a smaller question. In some engine testing videos of these flatheads, you see people changing gears with the engine running and NO clutch. How is this even possible without grinding? You can see the clutch lever doesn't even budge. Wiring questions This is my 1966 KMZ K-750. Solo, no sidecar. https://ibb.co/LxJvv0Q Wiring by the headlamp: https://ibb.co/6gxX2mM Grounding on frame: https://ibb.co/PNRcxRs Previous owner has done the ignition electrics, but I have 7 coloured wires coming from the headli
  11. Searched for a bit for a front Telescopic Fork, in the UK so Europe, can't find one in good condition. One on the bike I've bought is rusted to hell and back and certainly not restorable. Also, I need to restore the frame, but I don't know how to take off the wires and cables which connect to the brakes, speedometer, battery and other stuff. I'm going to do a "soft" dismantle of the bike since the engine and transmission are in great shape, but I need everything mechanical off everything body related. Any advice on this for a newbie? Alongside that, it hasn't got the grips at all. Sp
  12. Hello all, I've come here to ask if anyone has any suggestions for Courier services that deliver Motorcycles with sidecars from Ukraine to the UK directly, hassle free. Hoping that someone here has an answer as there's bound to be at least one person here who has done this. Thanks.
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