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About Blix

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  • My Bike(s)
    1966 Dnepr K750

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  1. Hi Guys. I'm really sorry for the delay in replying to this after you all left such good responses. Thanks for that. Others stuff took over but I did have a look at this a couple of times. I checked the ring gaps and they seemed a little tight so I opened them up. However, it was still getting hot. To cut a long story short, I took the barrels and pistons to a local machine shop. When cold, all measuremnts seem to work and tolerences for the barrels and pistons seemd fine but... the machine shop guy poured boiling water on the piston (100 deg C, obviously : ) and the p
  2. Thanks for the info on the piston markings. Is P2 the max repair size before affecting the integrity of the cylinder? Also, the second part of your info, are you talking about the ring gap? I think you are. Are all 4 rings set with the same gap? So, my gaps are potentially a bit tight? I think I also read somewhere that sidecar bikes have bigger gaps than solo bikes? Although I don’t think this will have any effect initially in this case since I’m not riding it either way : ) Thanks again
  3. The last two photos are from the first time i removed the barrels. The marks on the piston are odd becuse they are around the circumference, so couldn't have been caused by the stroke. My thought is that someone has done something manually to this at some time in their life. It's also odd that these makes are within the lateral marks I mention above, almost like someone has marked the piston then worked within this area. It's also confined to the area below the top oil ring and above the lower oil ring. I don't understand what has happened or why there marks are there?
  4. Hi there. Hope you all head a good xmas day. Had a bit of time this morning so took another look at the bike. Checking the fuel mixture is what I've been trying to do at idle and am pretty confident it's not this as a turn of the mixture screw either way affects the idle. Also, there's no oil pressure indicator that i can find. This is a mid 60s bike but I also think oil is circulating OK since it travels to the valve springs and is behind the pistons I've now taken the heads and barrels off a couple of times. The very first time, I found the top oil ring was tight in it's groo
  5. Hi. Sorry for delayed reply. Thanks for all your suggestions. I really appreciate you taking the time.I'm going to have another look at it this weekend. I'll report back with what i find. Cheers
  6. Thanks for the replies. I spoke to someone earlier who suggested crank endfloat; ie not enough, could cause a mild heat expansion. Also, another suggestion was back to carbs being too lean. I need to do some more investigating but have little experience with engine internals. It's frustrating as the mention of the engine having rebuilt should be a positive thing but I'm just wondering if something was put together wrong. I really don't want to have to tear the engine down. I just want to ride it!!
  7. Hello I want to start by thanking you for indulging me with my other questions. I really appreicate your input. I've had this Dnepr K750 for a couple of months (supposed to be 1966 but plate on the headstock says 1962? I realise that these can be changed but looks original but mightr not refer to the manufacture date anyway??) But I digress. It was bought as a non runner. It wouldn't start so I cleaned the carbs, checked the points, plugs and valve clearances, bought a new battery. Could get it running on occasion but, even when it seemed to be running OK, it would suddenly stop
  8. Thanks, Vance. They also say 'the proof is in the pudding' I'll be truely happy when I'm able to finally ride it and it's running well and reliable : ) I'll get there. Cheers
  9. Hello. Sorry for the delay in replying. I appreciate all your responses. I managed to work this out and am really happy that it worked. Basically I looked at the cams on the rotor drive shaft. There are two opposite each other. You can see these on the video linked to above. With the original, mechanical points in place, I rotated the engine with the kickstart until the points were just touching the start of one of the cams (I took both plugs out to make this easier) This left the slot on the rotor shaft in about the same postion as in the video above. Obviously it could ha
  10. Hello. I've looked through many threads, video s and topics on this but can't find anything definitive to guide me. I'm trying to install an electronic ignition system on my bike. From what I can tell from the standard points setup, the only adjustment of anything seems to be the points gap. The actual timing seems to be fixed - no adjustment or slots on the bolts to advance / retard the timing other than the cable from the handlebar. Is this correct? Anyway, as such, my new EI kit has slotted bolt holes for +10 to -10 degrees, which is pretty straight forward.
  11. Hi. Propwash. Thanks for the info on the step. Scott E - I'll give it a go. Cheers
  12. Hello. Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it. Regarding the front brake; it's not the cable I'm trying to adjust but the length of the rod between the cams to make sure they are balanced the same. I'm just not sure of the correct procedure. It would be easier if the threads on the bar were opposed so turning lengthened / shortend it, like a track rod, but this isn't the case. Regarding the sidecar step, do you mean the small cross plate part that you'd actually place your foot on rather than the actual frame? I'm not sure as I've had to store the sidecar elsewhere at the moment whi
  13. Hello. I've just joined this wonderful forum after searching for some technical info on a 1966 K750 I've just bought. I've been looking at these bike for several years but didn't intend to buy just yet but this came up locally for a good price so was too good to turn down. It's not registered yet in the UK but I've started this process. It was also sold as a non runner so I've got to fix a few things. It's also unfortunately missing some parts. I'd be really interested in some feedback on it's original condition. If anything is glaringly wrong Also, what main rear light
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