Jump to content

Scott E

Members
  • Content Count

    97
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Scott E

  1. My 562 is small inside as well. I have sat in it and just barely fit. I'm 5 foot 8 inches tall and weigh 200 lbs. If I was any larger in any other sizes I simply would not fit. My Wife is slightly smaller than I am so she will fit which is all I was worried about. My Dnepr Sidecar is huge in comparison. I think my 562 will be a good fit for the Honda as it's a 600cc bike so a smallish Sidecar is what it needs.
  2. I'm in the beginning stages of a new project. I found a Velorex 562 sidecar in a barn for $350 in not to bad shape. I diden't try to talk him down or anything. Just handed him the money, loaded it in the truck, and took off before anyone else showed up and knew anything about what a sidecar like that costs even used. I've gotten it cleaned up and all the hardware ready to clamp it to a motorcycle. I have a 2006 Honda VT600 Shadow (The Little Shadow) and I'm in the process of fabricating a sub-frame for the bike because there's no way to mount the sidecar to it properly otherwise. I've got it a
  3. I think everyone is busy making up for a lost year due to the Beer Virus. Everything is beginning to get back to normal here in Alabama.
  4. FedEx delivered 4 Shinko SR241 tires size 3.5-19. I was going to buy Duro HF308's but they are out of stock and after several calls no one would say when they would be back in stock. Back when I started restoring my Dnepr MT-11 I purchased 4 Shinko 240 100/90-19 black wall classic tires on sale. They are street only tires and at the time that's what I wanted. I have a little over 9,000 Km on them now. 2 are right at the wear limit with one being the sidecar tire and the other the spare. The one in the current pusher position looks like it will hit that minimum wear limit in another 1,000 Km.
  5. Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, hold a container under it, and turn the petcock on. You should get a nice flow of fuel. Other than that you must remove the float bowl to access the needle valve, float, and be able to check the passage for obstruction between the fuel inlet hose connection and the needle valve seat. You could also have clogged jets and passages connected to them. Carburetors like the ones you have are not complicated and can be reassembled in only one way. Just make sure you have a clean area to work on when taking the carburetor apart and have small containers fo
  6. I don't have any diagrams that are not already available on this site and on the internet via a search. It's really not all that complicated. It looks complicated when you look at all the wires and connections as one big puzzle but if you work on only one circuit at a time it's really simple. It's just several circuits all located in one place with a couple of them going through the main switch and others just going to light bulbs. The oil pressure switch is just a simple circuit that is connected to the battery through the main switch, then the oil pressure bulb, and ending at the oil pressu
  7. After so many years and so many people working on the bike I'd say the colors mean nothing. Worse it may have a new main switch that is nothing like the original and was replaced with a new switch from another model motorcycle. You just don't know until you start tracing it all out, which you will need to do. The easiest way to go about it is buy or make a simple test light connected to a 6 volt battery if you are keeping the motorcycle 6 volts or a 12 volt battery if you plan on upgrading to a 12 volt system. You can use one of the warning lights in the headlight as your test lamp. Start with
  8. Are you in the USA? A location would help as this forum has international users. If you are in the USA you might check with https://www.heindlengineering.com/ They are a large Ural dealer that take Ural motorcycles on trade and also buy them. Some older Urals with bad major parts such as engines, gear boxes, and final drives they part out and so I'm sure they may have a used battery cover they would sell. You may also ask for one at https://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/index.php in the Black Market sub section. There are a lot of Ural Dealers that post and watch that forum for people
  9. If you can't drive it on the road you could put the stand down and run it through the gears with the tire off the ground. That could give you an indication of proper shifting and clutch operation as well as checking the engine oil pressure and if the carburetors are setup correctly. The speedometer will function with the tire off the ground so you can watch it so you don't over speed the engine. If you hook up the alternator with a battery and regulator you can test it as well when it's running. Just connect a volt meter to the battery and if the voltage is around 14 VDC above idle the alterna
  10. Do not be worried about going into the gear box. It's very simple in there. You will more than likely need new gaskets and seals if the bike has been sitting a long time. I have no idea why they have a zip tie on the clutch lever unless they thought it would spring apart when they removed the clutch cable. You need to pull out the clutch throwout bearing assembly and inspect it. Simply remove the Carter or split pin holding the axle for the clutch arm. Then remove the axle and then the clutch arm. Then pull out the plug the clutch arm pushes in and below that you will find a ring of ball
  11. Some Dnepr Gear boxes have a semi automatic function. When you press down on the toe or heal pad a pin below the clutch throw out bearing arm presses the clutch arm disengaging the clutch for you. You can not use it in first gear with the bike stopped! In that case you must use the handlebar clutch lever to get the bike rolling. It does not work for the reverse gear as well. To use the semi automatic clutch function when up or down shifting and the bike is moving simply let off the throttle completely, press down firmly on the toe or heal shifting lever, then gently and slowly take pressure of
  12. It's nice for the Monkey if you have one, but not for the Driver. The sidecar windshield provides the Driver with a nice flow of air.... OK in the summer but not so much in winter. It also guides rain water into the driver as well. I like the design because it lies flat when there is no Monkey in the sidecar. A Happy Monkey in the sidecar is a joy despite the extra wind and water.
  13. The new speedometers used on Ural's are 85mm. The old Speedometers used on older Urals and Dneprs are 80mm so the new ones will not fit and they don't make them anymore. When they do show up at sites that sell older Ural or Dnepr parts they are used rebuilt units and are expensive. My Dnepr speedometer works (sort of) but is inaccurate, like all of them. I used a cheap digital bicycle speedometer on my Dnepr that's very accurate and was easy to mount. A magnet attached to the wheel passing by a small pickup sensor tells the speedometer the wheel has rotated one revolution. It's tiny micro comp
  14. I found this Ural sidecar windshield and skirt along with a sidecar cover on a Chinese Chang Jiang parts site for $170. Note that it's for older Ural sidecars with the old mounts. I have no idea what shipping would cost or the quality of it due to it being of Chinese manufacture. I've never ordered anything from that site so you throw the dice if you do. Considering how much Ural America wants for a sidecar windshield setup $170 is cheap in comparison and I don't know if they even sell one for older Ural sidecars if that is what you have. If you have a newer sidecar with the oval "twist to loc
  15. WD-40 is not a good lubricant. The WD of WD-40 stands for Water Displacing. It displaces water and prevents rust. It lubricates as long as it remains a liquid but once it evaporates it's lubrication properties disappear. 3 in 1 machine oil will work fine or a similar light machine oil such as air tool oil that you place a few drops of into the compressed air inlet of an air operated tool.
  16. There is a tiny hole located in the threaded boss that holds the speedometer cable. Put a little light machine oil in it. That should cure the problem. According to the manual you should put a drop of oil in that hole once a year.
  17. I kind of get the feeling the salesman knows nothing about Ural motorcycles. It's possible that Ural was a trade in and as you say knows nothing about it other than it has 2 wheel drive. I'm too old now to go off road so if I were purchasing a Ural it would be a CT single wheel drive model. If I ran across a used gear-up 2 wheel drive Ural at a very good price I would buy it but might never engage the differential lock lever.
  18. On 2WD Ural motorcycles when you engage 2 wheel drive with the lever you are locking both wheels together. You will have steering problems if you do that on pavement because both tires are firmly gripping the pavement surface. This causes the bike to go straight and makes turning very difficult because one or the other tire must lose traction in order to steer. That also puts a lot of undue pressure on the drive system. I would suggest never engaging 2 wheel drive unless you are on a lose surface where one or the other tires can easily lose traction, such as sand or gravel. Dnepr 2 wheel drive
  19. All that separation flange with it's mounting shoulder does is keep grease from migrating freely from one bearing to the other so one both have a roughly equal amount of grease. I can't see where placing it in one direction or the other would make any difference. It's just a pressed on fit on the bearing spacer. After I acquired my my Dnepr MT-11 I took all 4 wheel hub bearing assembly’s out to clean and repack them. They had never been apart from the factory. 2 hubs had the separator flange shoulders pointed in one direction and the other two the opposite direction. All four were very lacking
  20. The original condensor that came with my points ignition system developed a leak. Yes, I said it had a leak and that's not a mistake. I noticed the engine was getting hard to start and so pulled a spark plug to check the spark across the gap. It was weak and missed jumping the gap sometimes. I pulled the timing cover and noticed the condensor had developed a wax leak. You could see where it was easing out of a split in the metal body of the condensor. They use wax as an insulator between thin sheets of aluminium wound in a spiral to make them. I went to a small engine shop near me and picked u
  21. My MT-11 came with points ignition and a red dog poo coil that actually made good spark, until it diden't. It left me stranded in a parking lot. It was running just fine until I was finished shopping and attempted to start it. I put in the new spare points and condensor I keep in the tool bag but it was still dead. I got it home after using the few Russian curse words I learned and calling my wife to come get us. I obtained a Harley ignition coil and got it running again. I did an autopsy on the red dog poo coil by carefully cutting away the red varnished cloth cover and found the problem. The
  22. Moto Sancho on Youtube published a video about a 7 inch LED projector headlight that fits a Dnepr headlight ring. I don't speak Russian but he's pretty good at getting his points across so if you watch closely you'll get what he's doing and don't need to understand anything he's saying. I found that headlight on (USA market) Amazon with the Yeego brand name. On high beam it's 40 watts and on low beam it's 30 watts so obviously it's not going to consume more than the p45t or R2 bulb used in the original soviet made headlight. Nearly all of the other 7 inch LED headlights I found are rated at 75
  23. I read the original post yesterday evening and could not come up with any sort of answer at that time so I went to sleep on it. During the night I think I may have come up with an answer for this very strange problem. The problem could possibly be caused by the alternator and/or it's regulator. As per your description it produces spark when you remove the rotor and test it by hand so the alternator is not being turned by the engine. When you connect it and start kicking the engine over you are also rotating the alternator. If there is a problem in the alternator it may be causing problems such
  24. As we all know the Soviet Speedometers on our motorcycles are not very accurate and are more of a suggestion of your speed than an accurate representation. I enjoy working on Bicycles and as a result of that people will drop off their old bikes and let me fix them and give them to people that can't afford a nice new one. I was working on one that came in with a small electronic speedometer on it. A magnet attached to a spoke passing by a small pickup mounted to the forks informs the meter when the wheel has made one full rotation. The wheel diameter is measured and is entered into the setup sc
  25. My sidecar brake was never right from the beginning. The first problem was the timing of the cam with the brake actuating arm it's tack welded to. I filed the welds and then cracked them loose with a chisel. I found a square hole punched in the arm that matches a square shoulder on the cam. Whoever punched that square hole didn't get it right. No surprise there! I filed that square hole out so the cam could be properly timed with the arm. I put the arm and cam in position and fitted the brake shoes in place so the cam was held in place and then moved the arm to it's forward stop. Then I used a
×
×
  • Create New...