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About Northernduck

  • Rank
    Russian Bike Nut

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  • Interests
    Motorcycles. Beer. More motorcycles

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  • My Bike(s)
    Dnepr m10-36, Ducati ST-2, Ducati Diavel, KTM 1090r, bmw k1200, Triumph America

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Still have the wobble up to 30km/hr. The rig tracks perfectly straight at 50-60 km/h. Haven’t rechecked alignment yet but it can’t be that far off the mark. Went for 50 km in light snow today, had power steering here and there!!
  2. Adjusted toe in, mounted the tub, seats etc and took it for a ride. Slow speed wobble....not a tank slapper but difficult to manage until 30 km/h then it disappears. Stopped in parking lot to check head bearings and mounting bolts, everything seems ok. limped back home and looking at threads it seems it can be a number of things but some bit of wobble is normal and can be dealt with by getting the steering damper properly adjusted. Checked tire pressures, nipped up excessive slack in the sidecar wheel bearing and went for a 30 km ride, playing with damper. Seems a bit better but I
  3. Finally turned my attention back to finishing the sidecar, starting with new rubber bushes and axle for the swing arm. I had some difficulty checking the toe-in but as far as I can see there isn’t the 10mm specified in the manual. I’m relying on lumber for straight edges..... I’m tempted to road test it first because any adjustment will involve a torch and swear fest to free up the adjustable ball mount at the rear. If ok I’ll start working on the tub, interior etc.
  4. I use P45ts although the candlepower is pretty poor, they are only a few bucks. I recently tested an H4, note with a little work you can use an H4 in a P45t headlamp holder by swapping the wider base off the P45t to the H4 bulb. The connector is the same as we know. ND
  5. Thanks SB, in that case I’ll add it to my toolbox. Still learning....
  6. Why are Dnepr speedometers inaccurate? They are gear driven at both ends, secondary shaft in the gearbox meshed to a gear in the speedometer via the cable. Unless the tire diameter is considerably different than the design ratio I can’t see why they wouldn’t be accurate. But any system relies on an assumed tire diameter, I don’t understand. I’m running the stock speedo, can’t say hand on heart it gives me the correct speed but I’m running stock tire dimensions as well. ND.
  7. Great to hear Rod. Lapping in a petcock valve body was a new approach to an old problem. ND.
  8. I haven’t tried that Rod but your approach seems good, let us know if it works. ND
  9. Definitely. I found the same, whatever they used to chop the standpipe to length left the fuel entrance burred, partially blocked. ND
  10. Petcock internals. The brand new standpipe was bent and needed to be straightened before drilling out!
  11. Confirmed, it's M14 x 1.5. I replaced the original (seized) with another original and haven't had any problems but I modified it a little bit first. They have (or should have) ample fuel tolerant grease in them or they are not going to last. Too much grease and it can impede fuel flow, mine suffered this. I also struggled to find an off the shelf crush washer to seal it in a manner that the petcock was orientated in the right direction when tightened correctly so I eventually made one out of aluminum on the lathe to the correct thickness. Further mods include drilling out the orific
  12. Should be M14 x 1.5. If nobody else confirms, I’ll check tomorrow when I’m home. ND
  13. Speaking of brakes, I was so disappointed when after all my efforts to set the front brake shoes perfectly, and then cleaning up the drum surfaces and shoes with 120 grit sandpaper for bite then rubbing alcohol for cleanliness the stopping power was still dismal. As if I had greased the damn things. I spent a lot of time on this. But now only a 100 km later I have very good brakes! It’s as if it just took a while for the surfaces to perfectly mate and I can actually dive the front forks now. I’ve read that feathering in pads and drum shoes is an art or maybe voodoo magic, there must
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