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Posts posted by Solly

  1. I should add that a bad ground for the system can trump all,,, check grounds thoroughly. Additionally a over or under charging system will most definitely affect a engine running. Over charging will burn out the condenser and points and coil if let go too long. Under will starve the coil the necessary base voltage for loading and the spark plugs will not have enough voltage to have a good spark to jump their gap,, resulting in a poor ignition burn.

  2. It maybe a coil but also a condenser. As to the voltage changing when not running while advancing the timing,,, that could be simply opening or closing the points. which in affect are loading the coil. While running and the voltage changing,,,,,not sure. Unless the the regulator is being too sensitive to the electrical load. While at rest, I think I would first see if disconnecting the regulator for the charging circuit makes a difference when the issue is occurring. You stated that it would charge 9v plus at times. Typically there only has to be 1 volt over battery rest voltage to push the electrons into the battery { charging} or they start to drain into the ground system { discharging}. More than 2 volts over rest voltage and the battery will burn up due to overcharging. Which will eventually short the battery internally, causing in cases some very strange electrical issues. If the regulator is powered up with key{switch} on,,,Betting it is. Then any electrical load would/could affect it and your reading. Hope this info doesn't run you down the wrong rabbit trail. Sol

  3. Many thanks Peter, found some info on easthighway website that is similar. The kinda of oil {type} seems to be up to the descretian of many. But atf does seem to be a front runner. Have a full can of 20w fork oil for another bike which i'll probably use. Appreciate the conversion to sae ounces also. Did you find that info in your manual? Mine is pretty torn up and soggy,,,,,weather woes and leaky roof this last summer. But I still could not find it in there. Anyway Thanks Sol

  4. Hi All. Would like to know if anyone has experience with mt-11 fork and shock oil capacities and types of oil. Looked for it in the manual, but maybe I am looking right at it. Would guess that it is 10 or 20 weight, but wouldn't guess at the ounces.Only specs please no assumptions. I can screw it up all by myself. HaHa. Thanks again Sol

  5. You hit the nail on the head RBIKE,,, previous owner and operator most certainly make a difference in the individual machines all around performance and reliability. Do you think your new ural is more reliable than your cj or k750?. Just curious asking. Only because I have heard others voice some disconcerting things that have happened to their urals which were relatively new machines.

  6. Hello All, Would like to know has anyone ever ordered tire from overseas and got hit with duty charges. Reading the customs website I see that motorcycle tires are free of charge under general column and 1 . But then there is another column marked 2 that shows a charge of 10%. Just not sure if the 2 means quantity. Am interested in the size 4.10x19 universal tread listed by a seller on ebay from the Russian Federation. Seems to be the only source for this size and tread that I can find so far. Thanks always Sol

  7. Not sure what kinda of road or surface you are riding on, but I do understand about getting driven down the highway by traffic. I have 9 something gears that I put into my guzzi Eldorado and they are not that bad. In city driving though you are shifting down quite a bit more. We have some long open backroads here that I love to burn up not counting the big mountain climbs and falls. Oil quality makes the most difference and keeping the rpm as low as possible in the power band. So I ordered the 10/35 gears for my nepper and will let you know. In the meantime buy a cheap rpm gauge and keep it under 2500 revs. Cant overstate oil quality.........don't care what anyone else thinks. Synthetic,Synthetic,Synthetic .Drive it like you stole and fix it when it breaks. That should get a few responses..HaHaHaHa.. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!!!!. May the wind be at your back, the sun shine on your face and the path gently rise to meet you. Keep a good 360 degrees about you.

  8. I recently painted my bmw k1100. I purchased specific colors from a place called 66 autocolor out of Missouri I believe. I was skeptical of rattle cans jobs though I have used several different kinds in the past. But this company has a base coat clear process that is knock your socks off just like o.e..The secret is in the clear,,,, it is a can within a larger outside can,which contains a hardener that you puncture to release into the clear. you have 48 hours to use it and it comes out just like an original finish, the gloss stays wet looking even after drying. And its as hard as any factory job if not harder. Im sure there must be someone overseas that supplies the same kind of product. Well worth looking into.

  9. Would be interested in that find , have multiple contacts in FLA. But it would be nice to see some pics. And know if he has a clear title .There are currently 2 cjs on Show Low Arizona CL, but the price is a little more than I'd be willing to spend. By the lack of recent posts I think it would be reasonable to say everybody is enjoying the fall weather. Stay safe Thanks Sol

  10. There is quite the selection from a vendor from the Russian federation on ebay. Just type Dnepr tires and he has approx, 6 different selections. It might be wise to check with customs about duties on tires though. It could make for a bad awakening. Good Luck

  11. Hope everyone is enjoying this great riding weather!!! Will be gone soon enough out here, usually by late September it starts turning sour. That said. Does anyone know of a stateside supplier of tires that won't hit you up for a lot on shipping. To be exact 4.10x19 moderate tread. Don't intend to be tearing up the outback.The GREENIES wouldn't let you if you wanted to anyway. A website will do. Thanks Sol

  12. Would make sense to have a fair amount of reserve capacity so the alternator isn't running it's legs off to restore the battery quickly. Appears to be a clone of a old Renault/Fiat starter and their initial pull in amp draw was something around 180 amps and then continuous was usually much less , like around 100 - 125 amps { for a car } should even be less for a cycle.

  13. Thanks for all the tips,,,,I do like Deka batteries and have seen them consistently go beyond their own ratings of time and cca. Have had numerous Odyssey batteries in boats and though very good I found to be over priced. My Bmw brick uses a 18ah + { 170 cca} and the two Gooses use about the same if not larger.Will look into the lucas,,,,never used one before. Thanks again Sol

  14. Hi All. Was doing a little research for a battery { size and amps,cca,ah,} for the mt-11 and seemed to be pointing towards a yb4l sla battery. This bike has a add on starter assembly. Has anyone any experience with the standard battery not being enough reserve for the additional load. And if so what size did you go up to for the off set,,,did it fit properly? hard to get in or out? Any input would be nice. Im sure there must be a mathematical rule of thumb that applies. Thanks Sol

  15. Not having any experience with them also .I am at a lost to say anything negative, but they do seem to have better looks to there attachments.i.e lights,horns,chrome,.ect.ect. But from experience of man years in mechanics, Chinese steel and metallurgy in general is abominable at BEST! That would concern me the most.

  16. Hi Gregg. Those fuses if they are like mine are color coded. I can't remember the legend but it is as all old school European fuses were. Brown 15 amp blue 5 amp so and so forth. I think if you were to google European ceramic fuse color code it might be helpful......maybe. Hope that was a little helpful. Would like to here your findings. Sol

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