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Solly

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Everything posted by Solly

  1. Hello, Did you try using new fuel? Old flat gasoline or fuel that someone has added too much alcohol{drier} to can also cause a overheat condition. High timing will also cause this though. And of course as others have already stated, lean conditions or vacuum leaks are the most common reason for overheating. Though engine mis assembly is a definite possibility, Im not sure it would effect a seizure from overheating within 2-3 minutes.For giggles and kicks you might try running it off a separate fuel source apart from the spigot valves on the tank. Propane is a good way to check for leaks without so much of the risk of a fire.Valves being too tight could also cause a internal vacuum leak. As they get hot they stay open and basically cause a open combustion chamber.A compression test would show this straight forth.Good luck!! P.S. not having seen the pistons before hand..........youve got to start there! Get rid of those dogs!
  2. Hello, Did you try using new fuel? Old flat gasoline or fuel that someone has added too much alcohol{drier} to can also cause a overheat condition. High timing will also cause this though. And of course as others have already stated, lean conditions or vacuum leaks are the most common reason for overheating. Though engine mis assembly is a definite possibility, Im not sure it would effect a seizure from overheating within 2-3 minutes.For giggles and kicks you might try running it off a separate fuel source apart from the spigot valves on the tank. Propane is a good way to check for leaks without so much of the risk of a fire.Valves being too tight could also cause a internal vacuum leak. As they get hot they stay open and basically cause a open combustion chamber.A compression test would show this straight forth.Good luck!!
  3. Hello, Craft dude. I think your best bet in the EU would be EAST HIGHWAY or OLD TIMERS GARAGE. Both are out of Poland I think. There is also Magnus Henrikkson out of Sweden or Norway....cant remember for sure. May not have spelled his last name correct. But all of these have hinged fenders available from time to time. I also have a K750. I got and old rusted one from Oldtimers Garage. I dont believe you will find a new re pop available. And if you did it would probably be worst than an old one. East Highway will do some leg work for you. Sourcing that is.Just sayin.
  4. Ive got a restored Dnepr 650 in denver that Id want aprox 6k for. Sold the sidecar. Not really thinking youd want to take it down any trails though.100% gone through.top to bottom front to back.No comparison to your Honda for a ride. Just saying. I agree with dmb and try one out first. Rented or borrowed for a short ride.Even in very good condition they are quite different of a ride compared to other bikes.
  5. Maybe double check the valve adjustment also. No tappy.
  6. Hi Jim. Sounds like pretty strict guidelines. Couple things that I think might help is to wrap the pipes in the asbestos wrapping cloth, and to change to street tires for the drive by if you dont already have them on. Retard the timing slightly sometimes gives a more subdued sound. Take off the sidecar for the drive by , if your allowed to test without.They can add a significant amount of noise while travelling. Pack some foam around the air filter to muffle the breathing of the carbs some may help. Hope that helps.
  7. Hello All! Have been asked by a machinist friend who"s helping me out with some botched machine work. If I could come up with the valve height specs on a MT11 650. Last machinist cut the seats to much, threw off the geometry and the valves side loaded and egged out the guides. My friend doesnt want to make the same mistake. I looked, and he also very closely at the small repair manual. Niether of us could see and actual spec. Seems like pages 50-51-52 are lacking this dimension.If anyone has this expierience could you include the points of measurement where taken from. Should they be any different from the usual points. Thanks
  8. Its a shame that a few can ruin it for so many others. Having to dot every i and cross every t just to complete a transaction because of this kind of situation. Integrity doesnt seem to reign high for those few.
  9. I'll try to get a tutorial from a young work mate to post images. Not sure I understand the difference of photobucket compared to post image RacePres. In good time.
  10. Ok. Measuring diameter of the backside of the drivehub with a bore gauge where the felt ringed spacer is inserted. And comparing to a dial indicator measurement of the nose of the cover plate that drops into the bore. There is approx. A 0.010" difference. Ive been honing the bore with a brake cylinder hone and sanding the nose with emory cloth and it almost has enough clearance Clarence. A little more and we'll be golden. The felt ringed spacer is not used with a Ural rear drive. Instead they opt for a plain spacer of the same length but with a spiral cut in the outside of it for oil throw back away from the shaft . So oil doesnt leech out around the shaft and out to the retaining nut area. Also the nose of the cover plate has a inversely spiral cut for additional oil control. This cut is just tall enough to cause a clearance issue with a new part.Though the part numbers for the drivehub are the same for Dnepr and Ural. That particular dimension is not the same. Or it was just made wrong. Say It Isnt So! Old hub has just enough clearance Clarence!
  11. Ive given up on trying to load pics to this site. Too many hoops of fire and Im not a dog or a pony.😀
  12. Hi All. I have a k750 with a ural rear drive. The old drive hub that the ring gear is attached to was stripped off. As well as the wheel hub. So I got a new of both. The problem is the cover plate that the support bearing is pressed onto does not fit into the drive hub. The ural used a non felt spacer. The old one had a spiral cut for oil throw back. It seems the nose of the cover plate does not fit into the drive hub with clearance required for movement.I checked with several sites and the Dnepr and the Ural use the same part number of drive hub.Any thoughts. Machine the hub to fit( steel) or the aluminum cover plate?????
  13. Hey all. How are you supposed to upload pics to the gallery?
  14. I can see your point there.it does seem to not being an issue overall when taking into consideration that these older vehicles are not pushed or used quite as hard as newer ones.Some minor adjustments with minimal reduced performance would probably suffice in most cases for unwanted effects of not using it.
  15. Since this topic has come up.....Ive done a little research. Seems very few that assert that lead has no lubricating effect can not quantify or care to expound proofs otherwise. On the same note there are few proofs to the contrary. Did note that one enviromental chemist who wrote a paper for Columbia university Jo Niragu asserts it to be a lubricant. Although I must admit a unconventional one. Not to reduce friction but like teflon to not allow deposits to adhere or " stick" to surfaces. Those that hold to one or the other overall would have a hard time showing imperical truths. Hope that helps.
  16. I knew about the octane boost that it gave. Thought for sure it had a lubricant quality to it though. Could be wrong.
  17. I knew about the octane boost that it gave. Thought for sure it had a lubricant quality to it though. Could be wrong.
  18. That is true....lead does have a cooling effect in the combustion chamber which could only reduce temperatures which cause predetonations. Not sure of the LPG thing. But do know when working for Ford that the Police cars that were running LPG or CNG seemed to hole out a piston unusally more often than other vehicles. We were pushed to put in synthetic oil.It did make a difference.
  19. I modified my exhaust at the ends.....cut approx. 1/4" off like baloney and then fitted 3 3/8" harley fishtails which fit perfectly to the inside diameter of the dnepr ballbat mufflers like ours. Sounds great not raspy or tinny. I dont think I lost too much lowerend torque as a result. But havent challenged another dnepr or seen one though.
  20. I would add a gel pad in the shape of the seat delays monkeybutt syndrome. The rear I supported with I believe they were 4 inch coil springs with perches I bought from ebay. Just the same I have a fully cushioned seat for long rides that I interchange. Got the tractor seat from a flea/ antique mall. Cost about 35 if I remember correctly. They sell them new for those little lawn scooters though.
  21. A tractor seat will work and is quite comfortable. But a nose bracket with extended reach is required else your legs being forward will not be able to fall down to the ground at stops to steady yourself.......if you have a solo. With a side car not and issue. About 8 to 10 inches extension is necessary to place your legs back in a uncramped position.
  22. As I understood it was hard to get a lubricant to the then valve guides made of iron or steel of the like. So they added lead which wouldnt smoke or foul plugs. The guides of modern era are more self lubricating materials......hardened bronze or mixture of those kinds of metals. No more lubricant required. But I believe they still have some sort of additive to lubricate in tank fuel pumps and injector pintels.
  23. Looks good Luca. Good one Russ.whay did you do to the exhaust Luca?
  24. Needed: One peashooter muffler with oneside good. Two mufflers if you dont want to breakup a set. Chrome not a issue. Thanks Sol
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