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  1. In a No Fire scenario... yes... advance/retard occurs in the "magic box" sometimes controlled outside via a VOES... On a Ural IDK about the VOES... maybe don't use it!!! Stock Ural electronic ignition on 2007-2013 models is the Ducati ignition. It does not use a VOES.
  2. Take a closer look at the problem. 1. The side of the hub where the brake disk sits on the rear wheel is different than on the sidecar and front wheel. 2. There are also different spacers for the brake disk for all three wheels. Yes the spare is interchangeable with all three wheels now; however, it does take moving over the brake disk and spacer in order to use it as a spare. Take the time now to go through all three wheels and remove and reinstall the required bolts to change over the brake disk and the spacer. Tighten them to the correct torque specs. Then hopefully, when you need to use the spare, you won't run into this problem again.
  3. Might be best to read the manual. After the initial valve check at 500 kms, then it is recommended to check valves every 5,000 kms (or 3125 miles). https://static1.squarespace.com/static/58c1ef5abf629ab8bade3657/t/5c9144886e9a7f38a7eb14b9/1553024155671/2019+Gear-up_cT+Manual+Working+copy12.pdf
  4. 1. What EFI map are you running? 2. Do you have the ability and equipment to balance your throttle bodies at idle correctly? Warm idle speed should be set to 1050rpm. I don't know what EFI map I am running nor do I have either the equipment or the ability at this point to balance the throttle bodies out. Can a guy purchase that sort of stuff on a tight budget? Thanks. It will cost you approximately $100 to get the cables, OBD reader and software to balance the throttle bodies. As far as knowing what EFI map you have.....the stock one the bike comes with runs the bike somewhat lean and causes popping and farting, especially starting off. There is another, better map which enrichens the fuel mixture.....much less (maybe even nonexistent) popping and farting. It is OR 1.02. Only way to know which map you have is to have your dealer connect his computer to the bike and tell you. Contact me if you are interested in learning what exactly you need to balance your throttle bodies.
  5. 1. What EFI map are you running? 2. Do you have the ability and equipment to balance your throttle bodies at idle correctly? Warm idle speed should be set to 1050rpm.
  6. Can you better describe "blowing oil" and where is it exactly at? There are three places it could be happening at....1. Between valve cover and head. 2. Between head and cylinder. 3. Between cylinder and engine block.
  7. I know it's a ways from you...... https://rochester.craigslist.org/mcy/d/ural-wolf-for-sale/6532955339.html
  8. For right now Ural is stating only two models will be built in the future.......Gearup and cT.
  9. If it's the airbox hose splipping off the carbs, then here is a solution: http://racewayural.com/product/new-cvk-keihin-carburetor-perch-ring-set-pn10289/ If it's the compliance fittings, then here is a solution: Look at the 13th item down on this list: https://uralofholopaw.com/parts.html#
  10. By carb boots, do you mean the compliance fitting between the carb and the head or the rubber hose from the airbox?
  11. Hard to say exactly what factory jets were. They were usually either 122 or 125 mains and 38 idle jets. Depending on your location and altitude, you may want to fatten them up a little. Which needle are you talking about? 1. Idle mixture screw needle - turn it in until it soft seats then back it out 1-1/2 turns. 2. Float needle 3. Diaphragm slide needle - Only adjustment is to add M3 washers underneath to raise it a little. 2008 models came with no washers. http://myural.com/ke...disassembly.htm
  12. May I ask what happened to the original one?
  13. If you have the stock ignition, it is the Ducati ignition.
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