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propwash

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About propwash

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    Russian Bike Nut

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    Motherland
  1. I also found a Velorex nearby, however it is a 560. I have a Ural M63 and the sidecar was removed by the PO years ago for a BMW... I think the M63 needs a hack. However the 560 is very small internally and do not know if it would be worth the effort. I am really holding out for a Sputnik; there have been one or two semi-locally however the seller was too proud. Good luck and keep us posted.
  2. I believe the K65Ts (and rebuild kits) came with 165 jets. You may need to raise the main needle if it is falling on its face. Start at the notch that "raises" the needle one notch above the middle position.
  3. From left to right - Neutral (grn) - Charging (red) - Highbeam (blu) - Oil press (red) - Turn signal (grn) The oil pressure light will be -on- when key is on and engine not running (charging light as well). The oil pressure lamp may flicker or go out after several kicks as the oil pressure has been built up in the system by kicking. Stop kicking (engine not running) and wait, the lamp should stay on.
  4. Yes, I was demonstrating ring gap calculation. See attahced from Russian manual. I did not see P3 listed for K750, however it does not mean it is impossible. May have to source pistons and rings from different manufacturer. Now that I am thinking about it, I believe I saw one once that had 80mm pistons. ring_gaps.pdf
  5. P2-78.4X This is piston diameter marking. P2 = second repair pistons (original, then (P1) first repair bore, then (P2) second bore diameter) Generally, 0.004" per inch bore; 78mm is approx 3" = 0.012" = 0.3mm <-- this is in range of what is mentioned int he Russian repair manuals.
  6. K65Ts are much better than the K68s. All metal and original carbs for the Dnepr 650. I have been running them for over 17 years. There is a tech article about them on the site. Two things - 1) You have to be mindful of ethanol with the original float needle valves as they have a small washer for sealing. Ethanol will eventually dissolve these and the bowls will overflow. Run non ethanol fuel or swap out the needle valves. 2) The main jet post will loosed. There is a "D" washer that is suppose to prevent loosening, but the post will loosen anyway. Loctite the post and then
  7. On K750s, the sidecar step is bolted to the sidecar frame (later models were welded), it is just a quick check. After looking over the photos again, I think your step is bolted on as I cannot see the welds. Nice moto - good luck!
  8. Is the sidecar step bolted to the frame or welded? I hope I am wrong with my initial thoughts.
  9. ^^ yes, I believe so, minus the lamp control "ЛК" functionality. This functionality could be returned with a little circuit or a voltmeter.
  10. With the mechanical, It is also nice to be able to adjust activation. The solid state units are a crap shoot now. 15-20 years ago you could buy nice NOS units, throw them on and go. Now, not so much. A friend of mine had trouble with his, so he bought two (he had learned from the past). Both were bad. He purchased another 4 units; one was working properly. Who knows how long it will last. If your bike is wired for the mechanical, I would stay with that model unit. Another plus would be if you have to replace it - when you find a replacement, it will most likely be NOS Soviet m
  11. The equation - 0.004" per 1" bore works fine. 78mm approx equals 3" bore x 0.004 = 0.012" = 0.3mm which is right in the middle of what the Soviet manuals suggest.
  12. Nice looking moto! I really like the classic looking IZh models. I have a mid-80s Planeta-5. Cheers.
  13. I played around and tested most of the common and not so common electronic ignitions. Personally, I find points much more reliable, less quirky and zero chance of faulting to an overly advanced scenario. With that said, I run a points plate instead of the original style bowl. Easier to fine-tune. Original coil, 20+ years with over 100k kms. The low voltage connections to the coil will fatigue over time and break. Just something to watch.
  14. Less is generally better, however type III systems are generally robust. They have quirks. 0) The special "eared" washer can wear causing missing issues (generally on one side and makes one think carb problem. If you install the rotor correctly (not allowing it to "bottom out"on the cam and keep it tight thereafter, this issue is greatly reduced. 1) It can cause the bike to lurch forward when the key is "on" and the kill switch is moved to the "run" position; the ignition will "fire" if things are lined up just right at this moment. Not really a safety issue, but it is silly and annoying.
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