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  2. I will host the Blue Ridge Ural Rider’s Party (BURP) on July 9 – 11, 2021 at the Willville Motorcycle Camp, http://www.willvillebikecamp.com/ just off US Hwy 58, Meadows of Dan, Virginia. Due to a short planning window, this will be a less elaborate Rally than our past event, so I will emphasize long rides on the wonderful, winding roads around Meadows of Dan, Virginia. Routes may include the following: http://www.willvillebikecamp.com/rides.htm?fbclid=IwAR1j_a8CaQwP6velv2vzcW7vAWyH90pZ9_QNyWj1xxKTd0Z4IVof_09TpJs Tentative Schedule: Friday night Dinner at El Charr
  3. One notch, a little better, today I went to the bottom and now even better, now I can take her to the C.H.P. for a Vin check [although I have a california tittle with the Vin#'s] are all DMV's this stupid? WTF Thanks Guys
  4. Earlier
  5. I realy don't know, did not have an original harness and I did my own wiring. Some new parts, I hope these are the last of them, rear spring support: New bushes for the rear suspension axles: Rear suspension covers:
  6. I believe the K65Ts (and rebuild kits) came with 165 jets. You may need to raise the main needle if it is falling on its face. Start at the notch that "raises" the needle one notch above the middle position.
  7. OK guys got the pekar 65's on and running, I kept the throttle stops in for now but being at sea level I think the jetting is too lean, has 180's and it falls on its face when I throttle up if I pull the choke levers up she will rev up with some smoke but way too fat. now I have the 190's that were on the chineeze k68's but are they the same thread/type/size? or what drill# to use I'm 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw. Thanks guys Dennis
  8. Thanks for your reply’s. My rubber manifold adapter har some cracks, but when looking for new ones nothing seems to fit my manifold. My engine is a 650cc and bolt distance is 53 mm and intake opening is 33,5mm. It looks like the ones installed where adjusted, by adjusting the holes. so my question: is there a perfect fit or do I just order the mikuni one and adjust? other question: my thick rubber hose from airfilter to carbs is putting pressure on the carb which will increase the danger for cracks in the manifold adapter. Which type of hose can I use some is more flexibl
  9. I have bought a Minsk/Regent 1991 its been someone else's project and i'm finishing it off its all going well but i need to find the right gear for my speedo; not exactly sure the technical terms here but starting from the wheel up... the pinion looks good as in the part that is turning with the wheel around the hub, the part i'm missing is the part attached to that as in the gear that drives the actual wire... never had the original to measure or use as a reference so i'm hoping someone can give me a hand here. Cheers! PS if it helps its got stock wheels on so its all the same dia
  10. FedEx delivered 4 Shinko SR241 tires size 3.5-19. I was going to buy Duro HF308's but they are out of stock and after several calls no one would say when they would be back in stock. Back when I started restoring my Dnepr MT-11 I purchased 4 Shinko 240 100/90-19 black wall classic tires on sale. They are street only tires and at the time that's what I wanted. I have a little over 9,000 Km on them now. 2 are right at the wear limit with one being the sidecar tire and the other the spare. The one in the current pusher position looks like it will hit that minimum wear limit in another 1,000 Km.
  11. Hi there you people of the Russian Iron community😀 I am finally back to torture you with my silly questions and thoughts regarding Ural motorcycles😁 After a divorce and the selling of my bikes.. (Because life after a divorce often leads to selling all you have just to pay the bills🙄) A couple of years has gone by, And I miss my Ural 650 equipped with a "LL fork"<3 ..Maybe its time to buy a Ural again? I hope that I will find a new project soon🤔.. To be continued😉 

  12. Thanks gentlemen, I noticed what you're talking about at the other place. I found a side cover on the auction site for a pretty good price. Thanks for the help and suggestions. Safe riding. Jack
  13. Have for sale a set of the early style intakes that use the metal middle and elbows. Some cracking in the lower rubber but they look serviceable. Will need new clamps also a set of the early bolt on Mikuni carb mounts. One mount needs the new rubber gasket to the carb. $25 in a flat rate box shipped to the lower 48
  14. My experience with Urals and Mikuni carbs suggests the popping sounds are the result of air leaks in the compliance fitting between the carb and the cylinder head. Those parts require replacement over time, as they harden and crack. If you don't know how old those compliance fittings are, expect to replace them with new ones, at least as a prophylactic measure. That could make your experience much easier and enjoyable with these machines. I always ride with spares compliance fittings sealed in plastic bags, in my "spares kit." I've only ever needed them when I didn't have them wit
  15. Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, hold a container under it, and turn the petcock on. You should get a nice flow of fuel. Other than that you must remove the float bowl to access the needle valve, float, and be able to check the passage for obstruction between the fuel inlet hose connection and the needle valve seat. You could also have clogged jets and passages connected to them. Carburetors like the ones you have are not complicated and can be reassembled in only one way. Just make sure you have a clean area to work on when taking the carburetor apart and have small containers fo
  16. Update: it seems my left ciøinder is not working as the head stays cold. Tried to adjust idle speed and air screw without any effect. Difficult to se if petrol is running. The right cilinder seems to work fine, gets warm but after running several minutes it starts to make popping sounds, only when warm. any suggestion how to se if fuel is blocked, without opening the carberator? any idears why the right cilinder start makkng sound after several minutes (5+) running fine?? Thanks in advance Henk
  17. Hi Changed out carbs to Mikuni. When I started the engine went to about 840 rpm with choke open. (Top low??) After a some minutes I turned the throttle and ramped up the rpms. This went smoothly, but went I released the throttle the rpms went down and below the idle speed (choke still open) and after a short time the engine died. This happend twice and when closing the chokes after some minutes the engine died. 1. Why did my rpms dropped below Idle even with choke open after I released the throttle? 2. Must adjusting carbs and minimum idle speed be done when running on 1 cilinder with c
  18. Come on out, or stay at home and watch You Tube, your choice...
  19. Good advice from all. If you are having trouble tracing a wire from one end of the harness to the other, another tool that can help is a cable tracker. It consists of 2 pieces, a signal generator that you clip to the wire, and a receiver that detects the signal and thus the wire. Harbor Freight carries one and they are available at other places too. I would try the other methods listed first as it avoids the expense (about $25 US) but if you aren't having luck this can help. Here's a link to the Harbor Freight one: https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html
  20. Trinidad: Scott E offers sage advice. I will add: Acquire an electrical multimeter and learn how to use the "Ohm Meter" portion to trace wiring. In my Electrical Engineering career that tool has been one of the most useful for troubleshooting electronics. This will allow you do "unravel" the wire harness without physically tracing the wires, and then mark those connected wire ends for later use. And considering that I have never found coherent use of wire colors in Russian wire harnesses and diagrams on 4 different motorcycles, this is important to do. Because you do not
  21. I don't have any diagrams that are not already available on this site and on the internet via a search. It's really not all that complicated. It looks complicated when you look at all the wires and connections as one big puzzle but if you work on only one circuit at a time it's really simple. It's just several circuits all located in one place with a couple of them going through the main switch and others just going to light bulbs. The oil pressure switch is just a simple circuit that is connected to the battery through the main switch, then the oil pressure bulb, and ending at the oil pressu
  22. Just to ensure I've read correctly, start off by only completing one main circuit, like the secondary or primary headlamp light, to see if the electrics are faulty, and go from there? One concern that I have is with the harness having pre lengthened wires. I'll have to try out each wire as I go to see if they can reach where they need to go, e.g make sure the green can reach the positive on the ignition coil, and if it doesn't, swap the headlamp wire with it etc. So I guess I'll do as you said, trace things as I go. I've also noticed that the diagram I posted was for a K-650 and has
  23. After so many years and so many people working on the bike I'd say the colors mean nothing. Worse it may have a new main switch that is nothing like the original and was replaced with a new switch from another model motorcycle. You just don't know until you start tracing it all out, which you will need to do. The easiest way to go about it is buy or make a simple test light connected to a 6 volt battery if you are keeping the motorcycle 6 volts or a 12 volt battery if you plan on upgrading to a 12 volt system. You can use one of the warning lights in the headlight as your test lamp. Start with
  24. @Scott E Don't want to create a whole new thread for this, so hopefully you're fine with me tagging you. I want to do the wiring, I've bought a harness. There's six colours to the new harness, White, Black, Green, Red, Blue and Brown. Currently the wiring has the positive grounded and the negative connected to the positive terminal (despite it being a negative ground system) along with other serious issues, like the generator wires connecting to the battery directly. However, the wires dangling out the headlight currently, have 7 colours. All the ones listed above, with grey.
  25. Hi Guys. I'm really sorry for the delay in replying to this after you all left such good responses. Thanks for that. Others stuff took over but I did have a look at this a couple of times. I checked the ring gaps and they seemed a little tight so I opened them up. However, it was still getting hot. To cut a long story short, I took the barrels and pistons to a local machine shop. When cold, all measuremnts seem to work and tolerences for the barrels and pistons seemd fine but... the machine shop guy poured boiling water on the piston (100 deg C, obviously : ) and the p
  26. Hello Vance, hi Russ. Havn't been here for long time. Eric, I have a pair of white ones. Used...
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