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  1. Today
  2. There are many out there...We have 13 here. You have to be patient. Greatest hobby in the world.... SB#3
  3. Last week
  4. Your location is vital to getting a useful answer to your quest. Hope you find one. RussN
  5. I have bought from Ural Zentrale rims for M72 and these are made for 4mm spokes but I manged to put them on Dnepr brake hubs by enlarging the niple holes. The rims are good enough but I recomend these rims only for paved roads only because the material is thinner then the russian rims.
  6. I am looking for a Ukrainian Russian or Russian bike with sidecar to restore to keep busy. Thank you.
  7. The chrome plated Dnepr rims were made for export and are true and round, they were made by a Russian aerospace company, not by KMZ. They are called Export Rims.
  8. I bought new powder coated rims and spokes from Henriksson.ee. Can't remember what it cost but I do remember he was bringing them into Estonia from the UK. Excellent finish, not a scratch to this day. One of the four rims had a bit of an irregular surface where the seams are welded but honestly still very good quality. The original rims were so corroded bending was out of the question. Scary. ND
  9. Restore the original heads. They are already removed from an engine and easy to access, and you've identified many issues with the heads presently on your bike. You will thank yourself... My son's '98 Ural had problems with crappy heads: poor running, inconsistent valve adjustments, excess heat and more. He completely replaced them with new Ural head assemblies and his bike has run consistently with balanced increased power, valve adjustments holding for 10K+ kms, and now more than 102,000 kms on the dial. Still running strong. RussN
  10. Thanks Luca. I note Ural Zentrale sells upgraded valve springs for Dnepr 650 engines. I suppose the question is if I upgrade the springs should I go the whole route and restore the original heads that do not have misaligned rockers, sloppy valve guides and bolt holes that are so off center that I had to machine special washers to get them to fit. I'll have to think about this. I suppose there are a lot of options for carbs but if anyone has a favorite alternative to K65T's that won't break the bank I'm all ears. ND.
  11. Working on electrics and I am almost done, everything is working and I just have to start the bike in order to test the electronic relay (Vape R81). After the test I have to paint the fenders and the front fork parts and begin the final assembly for the bike. Below the rear light, quit bright for a 6V chinese copy:
  12. It should be on the left top mount of the shock absorber. Also keep in mind that some series of the russian bikes did not had frame number, only engine number which apeared in the papers.
  13. I believe the problem with the springs is not the heat but the poor quality material of the springs. For example the Ural engines does not have this problem, also the boxer BMW aircooled engines which don't have an insulator shim under the valve springs.
  14. I have a 1970's M66 frame with a plate on the headstock showing the frame number and have been trying to locate where the frame number would be stamped on the frame On my M67 the frame number is stamped on the front down tube but a bit of googling indicates that the M66 frame number should be on top of the shock mount ? If anyone has a picture of an M66 frame showing where the frame number is stamped that they would be prepared to share that would be very much appreciated
  15. Still suffering from rotated photos... Broke an intake valve spring pair on the way home from a trip yesterday, limped back on one cylinder. Took it apart and no damage done other than the broken spring. Cylinder and piston spotless. I recovered an old spring set (inner and outer) from an old set of crusty Dnepr heads and have it running again. But a bunch of questions arise.... The threads discuss weak Dnepr valve springs that suffer from overheating. Fibre washers have been fitted by KMZ to insulate from the heat of the heads (my valve train has no such washers) and moreover this is the left head which is running considerably cooler than the right head. This too is an anomaly as the threads pinpoint the left head as the hot runner. The right head is running much hotter and the carb is barely toucheable. I jacked the needles a notch to increase fuel cooing but no noticeable difference (Pekar K65T carbs). I suspect I'm facing multiple issues - the Pekars are not responding well to adjustments although last year everything was running smoothly. I'm also wondering from a reliability perspective if I should be changing out all valve springs so I don't get caught 500km from home... I've reworked, refitted, repaired and adjusted the K65ts endlessly and wonder if there is a better option. I also suspect these are two separate issues. The heads I'm running now are poor quality, slop in the guides, counterbores for mounting bolts way off center, rocker arms misaligned with valve stems... I might bite the bullet and have the original heads restored. Any advice appreciated. ND.
  16. Earlier
  17. Sweet. At first blush, the casting quality is much poorer than my Dnepr's . I would offer the quality/fit/finish overall seems to be less than my early KMZ engines and tranny's. I will have to see how it holds up to pulling a MT-11 rig around. The electric starter holds some glamour to me as I age... My goal was/is to have a backup powerplant for when I can't get KMZ bits anymore. Right now I have stock of OEM pistons, heads and ring sets to last me and some friends for a few years. Again, the jury is out for a year or so till I can bang it around ... I really doubt a Chinese copy of a KMZ reverse engineered BMW will give the service that my KMZ power plants have. The KMZ engines have treated me well... If they just had a reliable E-start.... For those folks that have texted with questions; my little fleet is doing fine; only have one URAL now, the rest are KMZ. I am looking to add a PATROL or GEAR UP in a year or so. I feel that I will need electric start machines in a few years to keep this hobby going into my golden years. The oppressive heat here in the South is playing heck on boiling the crap gas out of the K-65s and Pekars on the Nippers. Its just to hot to putt around at low speed and expect the engine to cool properly...Reliable, hot re-starts take several kicks to roll them over after putting around. Hope everyone is doing well.. Can't wait until winter... Stay Safe, SB#3
  18. Anyone have a Dnepr frame in the Northeast?
  19. The motor is WAAAY better than ANY OHV Dnepr motor. Electric start with over running clutch ( can't hurt anything by hitting the start button with the engine running). The Dnepr transmission is better, but the whole thing bolts in. Using the Dnepr transmission means no driveshaft issues. You just need to find a button for the starter.
  20. A friend had an unfortunate encounter with a large rock in a construction zone. Saved his leg. Destroyed the leg shield. Anyone here have a spare set for reasonable money? Thanks, Mike
  21. I have managed to adjust the position of the front wheel by milling the front brake plate, 3 mm in the center: and 2 mm in the outer diameter: Now the wheel is aligned in the center of the front fork and fender. After that I have painted the gas tank, no filler and no polyester, just paint because as I have mentioned before this is not a final project. The gas tank was treated on the surface with an antirust compound: Green paint semimatt finish RAL 6003:
  22. I believe on J&P Cycles you can find old model Harley rims that fits for russian boxers.
  23. Where on the frame did IZH stamp a vin? Did they? Thanks for any help. Glenn
  24. I'd say they would be happy to sell you a high quality rim at a high quality price. I don't think they would even touch your old rims due to liability issues. If they repaired your old rim and it broke while you were riding it..... I just live with my crummy old poor Russian rims. 3 are not too bad but one is very bad so I keep it as the spare wheel on the sidecar. It's there "just in case" but when I rotate tires I dismount the tire on it and swap it out with a worn tire. I did consider making a jig for my press to bend that flattened area but the rim is welded right in the middle of it and so I fear what the outcome of doing that would be. Instead of a bad rim that is usable it would become scrap metal.
  25. Sounds like it might be quite hectic to sort out. Do you think that perhaps professional classic bike shops do this sort of thing? There's one or two near me that could deal with it.
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