Hello all,

I just found out that someone in my hometown is selling a 1972 Dnepr, 650cc model, single drive. He does not know much about it, but it does not run, "something electrical" is all he thinks it is...

I check the archives for a "checklist", but I did not find anything. Other than compression, missing parts, excessive rust, etc, what else should I really look at? It is registered/licensed and it came from Canada, originally, so it is not a "kit bike"

What would it need to be converted to a 2wd model? I will check to see if the bike has a "drive unit" attached, but what else?

The asking price 2800 USD, but he is interested in all offers...

Thanks in advance,
Dustin

I aint gonna touch it... I'll let Kermi chime in with the snide remarks... :surprise:

Seriously, $2800 for a non-running Dnepr is kinda high IMHO, there are some decent Ural rigs you can find for just a few more $.

I dunno about the Dnepr, but on the Ural, converting the 1WD to 2WD usually requires a new final drive, swingarm, sidecar axle/drive, driveshaft and modifications to the sidecar frame. mylash here has actually done it, maybe he can shed more light on the 1WD/2WD conversion.

It's not worth more than $800.

Forget about making it into a 2WD rig. It'll cost you more than it would to buy one, and you'll have a useless hack frame, swingarm and final drive in your garage afterwards...

I did the opposite - made a 2WD Dnepr into a 1WD Dnepr...

You don't need 2WD - you just THINK you do ;)

Actually, what you need is a Ural.... or a Jeep....

;)

Dubnepr

or this: http://englishrussia.com/?p=381

I shall refrain from passing judgement upon hapless Dneprs in general by word or deed. All russian rigs are worthy.


A non-running Dnepr of dubious lineage will make a FINE addition to anybody's collection...... especially if one actually NEEDS to keep his boat from drifting away with the tide......


I couldn't help myself.


I am so ashamed.....



nevermind


kermitski

Ultimately, I would do a differential compression test and bore scope – of course one needs the tools, skills and ability to interpret the results. Also knowing some history helps especially how it has been stored is good data. These are non-intrusive tests that most owners will allow. Most realistically, a simple compression test and exterior examination will give you decent clues (rust corrosion, etc). Testing for spark and determining the most likely suspect if no spark exists is easy, but it depends upon the owner if they will allow. This is usually a cheap fix, I woudn’t worry too much.
Canada originating Dneprs are better than the Dnepr kit bikes commonly found in the US. Of couse how it stored, maintained matters.
In the end, it will come down to some data, some bobkie ($$), some faith and some "f**k it" factor if you decide to move forward. This formula is complicated and differs with each carbon unit.
Dneprs can be daily drivers – I do it nearly every day. There are certain areas to monitor right off if you are not going to go through everything. Take the generator off and resecure the gear – loctite and cotter pin if possible. Monitor the diff fluid – if it begins to turn silver, your ring bolts are most likely backing out and interacting with the case. Monitor cylinder head temps for commonality and non-damaging temps. Change fluids often. If many kms on the odo, clean the oil pan and centrifuge. Get a manual, read and follow. Balance carbs. That will get you going.

Mylash seems to be occasionally lamenting the decision to convert his rig from `1 to 2-wheel drive. Pretty expensive for the little you actually use it, apparently. You should contact him if you are seriously thinking of doing it. - Chris

BWAAAHHHAHAHAHAHAHAH!! I love it! Move over H1, you're a wimpy-girly man's little matchbox car!

Shameless is more like it! ;) :D

Everyone else has added their two bits about the Dnepr so I won't do that.What ever it is, two wheel or one wheel drive, leave that as is.
As for not running, check the spark, there may not be one.
On my Dnepr, It quit running about 3 days after I put it together. Finding no spark, I removed the coil. The coil did not work and it was labeled 6 volts. This was on a 12 volt bike. No wonder it gave out. I replaced it with an aftermarket Harley coil for points condenser system and never had any more ignition troubles.

Turkshead