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Thank You JohnJG!


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#31 emag

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 12:48 PM

DaveO, on Oct 2 2006, 10:17 PM, said:

wyowillys46, on Oct 2 2006, 08:04 PM, said:

For some reason I can't open any of your pics Dave. The link to a page full of html gobblygook.
:huh: sorry, don't know what to say????...you should at least see the thumbnails, I posted them the regular way using the 'attachment' button....I can see them..
DaveO - I get that problem using my default browser - Firefox.  Pics come in fine if I use Internet Explorer...
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#32 emag

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 12:52 PM

Duuuhhhhh!  Meant that reply for wyowilly, and I made it before reading on farther.  Note to self -  lay off the coffee a tad....
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#33 IMZman

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 01:07 PM

DaveO...don't forget the bearings won't get much oil due to the plate with the 3 screws which covers them before the gear goes on...conversly...unless the grease liquifies, not much will trickle up toward the engine. As far as the seal in the back, I think you'd be smart to shave some housing like you said and put in a standard size seal. Would probably do a better job of holding the grease in from that end. I still think it will end up making a mess on top of the engine...but then again what is the alternative. Most of the grease will trickle out the front behind the bearing plate or out the back if the seal takes a crap.

You're probably on the right track about bearing cost vs. bearing used. Russian bearings are about 1/3rd the cost of their aftermarket equivilent replacement. I just priced a 114 X 140 X 16 bearing that goes in the final drive; Russian bearing cost-$80...SKF brand cost $350 with a Japanese low cost brand going for $320...hell, for another $100 you could buy a new final drive complete with driveshaft.
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#34 greenmachine

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 02:23 PM

See, I told ya I didn't understand.....   I thought the deal was to leave off that front cover plate so when ya pushed grease into the zerk it would push out the front bearing rather than push the seal out the back and get crap into the alternator, bad, or onto the engine, probably not all that bad.....

This is gonna be cool. I love it when Dave_O works in the lab late at night on his projects. It's either gonna work spiffy or not. Then we can jump for joy OR we can all tell Dave_O where failed so miserably and how to go right to plan-B ......

Actually THIS is plan-B since the factory version is plan-A, not to be confused with Plan-9-from-outerspace, which is a whole nuther thing entirely....


nevermind

I'm outa here for the Russian Iron Triangle. It's apple time.

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and got rid of that goofy thing...

#35 VWNate1

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 04:02 PM

Looks good to me !

I really like the pix and clear explanations of what's going on so us dufus' can figger it out too  :huh:

I'm thinking maybe when / if my 35A RPOC alternator goes tits up , I should go back to the original low output generator , why didn't give much trouble and I'm riding a kick start Solo with a Domestic headlamp bulb......

Doesn't need much to keep all that going .


Plus I bet Gene's got a box fulla N.O.S. ones for cheap.....   :lol:
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#36 DaveO

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 08:18 PM

well guys, the retaining plate will allow plenty of room for the excess grease to escape..not too good of a location for splash oiling though. There's a lot of room for it enter, I just don't think the oil is directed well enough to get in there in any volume, except haphazardly...Here's a pic showing the retaining plate over an unsealed standard bearing. The thrust bearing will most likely have a much fatter inner race width, at one end, than the standard, for the thrust loading. So, the area open to the engine will be somewhat less. I didn't plan on using the engine oil to lube the bearings, that's why I put in the zerk. I just wanted the excess grease to be able to flow through the bearing into the engine, as opposed to pushing past the rear seal. Even if the grease does go past the rear seal, it will just be slung off the cush drive parts and run out of the housing, I don't believe it will even make it to the alternator itself. I'll drill a weep hole in the bottom of the cush drive cover so any excess can just drip out at front of the housing anyhow.

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#37 DaveO

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 08:25 PM

Here's the stack o'stuff...On left, the shaft. On the right we're showing the seal on the bottom, then old rear standard bearing, the spacer, old front standard bearing, retainer, and gear. You can see the space open to the front bearing in the retainer plate here too, as well as the convenient space between the bearing sets...

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#38 JustTroItIn

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 07:55 AM

DaveO, any chance I can get a copy of Lee Papes' original blueprint for the adapter?
==========
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#39 DaveO

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 10:58 AM

JustTroItIn, on Oct 4 2006, 05:55 AM, said:

DaveO, any chance I can get a copy of Lee Papes' original blueprint for the adapter?
Sure, send me an e-mail to       daveo916 (at) comcast.net  and I'll send it to you, you wouldn't be able to read it if I reduced it for posting here


UPDATE the seal won't be in till tomorrow, Thurs. 5 oct.... the 7004 bearing looks like it will work fine
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#40 DaveO

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 08:13 PM

Okey dokey...so I got the stuff today and commenced assembly. First, I ground a little out of the case in the rear oil seal area, so the 37 mm seal will fit. The new seal is a little shorter than the stock seal, and it is a double lipped seal. I set the seal to the most rearward part of the cutout area in the case. I used some hi-temp RTV around the seal and staked the case behind it also, so any grease pressure isn't liable to push it out the back.

Here's a pic showing the new stuff on the left of the pic, the angular contact bearing is on the gold box...

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#41 DaveO

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 08:15 PM

here's the seal installed, actually used 8 stakes in the case..

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#42 DaveO

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 08:20 PM

oh yea, before the seal, I  drilled a weep hole underneath the case for any seal seepage to exit....

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#43 DaveO

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 08:25 PM

I removed 1 seal from the double-sealed 6004 2RS bearring, the open side faces inward, I left the outer seal on the bearing, so the main case seal doesn't get the added pressure when lubing. After cleaning the outer bearing race and the case, I used Loctite 680 setting compound, to seat the bearing...

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#44 DaveO

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 08:31 PM

I then cleaned, Loctited, and installed the forward, angular contact bearing. It is an exact match in size for replacement of the stock bearing, and is designed for an angular thrust application, unlike the stock bearing, which is not meant for this application at all.

here's the bearing..all $88 bucks worth....

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#45 DaveO

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 08:32 PM

Here's installed

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