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Headlight Issues 2007 Ural T

Headlight Electrical Tech help

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#1 Martyb661

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 03:10 PM

I have a 2007 Ural T and have headlight issues. The headlight quit working... No low or high beam. Replaced the "bad" bulb with a new one. Same issues.No Light neither lo or hi beams work.

I have used a multi-meter and continuity test light to check for power coming into the light fixture and all voltages seem to be normal with both the high and low beam when selected.

I checked the headlights with the ohm meter and the bulbs seem to be OK. No "infinity" symbols.

I suspected the handle bar light switch but ruled that out when i could see the power come through to the headlight connector. It switches power back and forth without any issues. I can hear the headlight relay click when switching from hi to low beam.

Am I just plagued by bad "new" headlights, do I need buy a new handlebar switch (turn signal switch is bad too) or a new headlight relay.

Any help or advise would be gratefully accepted.

#2 Anonymous5

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 04:07 PM

Did you check for a proper ground at the headlight connector?

#3 Vance Blosser

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Posted 15 August 2016 - 06:57 PM

Many bikes have a ground wire running from the harness behind the headlight bucket to a bolt on top of the motor mount at the front of the alternator. Even if it looks good, clean it. Been there, done that!

#4 Martyb661

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 02:26 PM

View PostAnonymous5, on 14 August 2016 - 04:07 PM, said:

Did you check for a proper ground at the headlight connector?

I used my continuity test light with the ground clamp attached to the head light bucket mounting bolt and checked both the low & high beam connectors got a "good" light.Then I hooked the ground clamp on the test light to the ground wire connector on the headlamp fixture and checked it that way. Got a "good" light again.

With the ignition switch on and the engine off I'm getting 12.7 vdc at the headlight fixture. With the engine on at idle I'm getting close to 13.6 vdc.

I checked the wires attaching to the alternator and they are tight.

#5 Martyb661

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Posted 04 September 2016 - 02:26 PM

View PostVance Blosser, on 15 August 2016 - 06:57 PM, said:

Many bikes have a ground wire running from the harness behind the headlight bucket to a bolt on top of the motor mount at the front of the alternator. Even if it looks good, clean it. Been there, done that!

I used my continuity test light with the ground clamp attached to the head light bucket mounting bolt and checked both the low & high beam connectors got a "good" light.Then I hooked the ground clamp on the test light to the ground wire connector on the headlamp fixture and checked it that way. Got a "good" light again.

With the ignition switch on and the engine off I'm getting 12.7 vdc at the headlight fixture. With the engine on at idle I'm getting close to 13.6 vdc.

I checked the wires attaching to the alternator and they are tight.

#6 Russ Noe

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Posted 05 September 2016 - 09:34 AM

Continuity testers may not locate all bad electrical connections. They use low current, and a "crusty" contact can still pass the small current without problem. Then when trying to pass several Amps of current (such as a headlight) the connection shows resistance.
That's why Vance suggested cleaning the contacts regardless of how they look.
"Listen to The Vance!"

Several times, my Urals (4) have had electrical problems that were solved by periodic cleaning of the main ground connections. Those connections appeared OK, but were in fact high resistance only what at full current.
You might also try connecting a separate ground wire from the headlight to the battery negative post, as a test. Even using "alligator" clip connectors will uncover such issues.
And always suspect the relays...

No promises, just "Ural suggestions."
~RN





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