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Finally have an engine in pieces


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#106 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 26 October 2016 - 03:20 PM

Golly, almost a year since my last post.  Mind you, busy, busy!  Hard to do stuff and bring up a young family :-)  House also needed work - doing some landscaping.
Anyway, back to Urals.  I decided to go through all the mechanical components so final drive had some attention.
IMG 2136 Interesting number - I assume I had a 1975 9:35 ratio.  Would have been useful to have known this 20 years ago when I bought a 9:35 final drive CWP set!
I've not pictured a blow by blow dismantling sequence as they've been done before.  I did have a smidge of trouble removing bearings, though, so thought I'd post to show how they came apart.  I had the crown wheel bearing stuck on the final drive casing.  Bought a 3 legged puller but it wouldn't fit in.  Time for the tried and tested methos....harmonic balancer puller and coach bolts!

IMG 2138
IMG 2137

A washer to hold the pushing bolt
IMG 2139
Popped that one off easy peasy!
IMG 2140
The pinion bearing was a blind one and I didn't have a puller for that.  Had a think and a research and saw something Gobium had done - saw that on Soviet Steeds.  Harmonic balancer puller and one bolt was what I needed.

IMG 2133
IMG 2134


IMG 2135
I moved the bolt around a bit to try and even out the pulling forces.  Outer race then just slipped out easy peasy.
Now I have the pinion inner race to pull off.  As you can see it has a slight scratch on the surface.  Might be OK....but then again, might not.  I'm not risking it and have bought a new set of bearings to replace all.  Removing this might require a better tool - can't get my trusty puller to work on this!

IMG 2141
If you look carefully you will see the scratch.
I'll lay the components out soon to see how they all look for your comments.  Might do that tonight and do some more work this weekend.
Sorry I was gone for so long!

#107 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 27 October 2016 - 09:49 PM

Posted Image

Bought this for the pinion seal.  Bit of overkill....but my birthday in a week or so.  I deserve a present :-)

#108 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 01:59 PM

IMG 2150
IMG 2151

Well, what do you know - if you use the right tool, the job is very easy!  Pinion is now free of scratched inner race and a new one is on it's way from Poland.  Time now to consider getting those cases cleaned and soda blasted and to get some stronger bolts for the crown wheel.  Should have a decent rear drive soon :-)  Then I revisit the gearbox.

#109 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 02:54 PM

New pinion inner pressed on courtesy of work bench press.  Cases boiled in some green detergent stuff to remove most oil.  I shall try and find time to soda blast them - no cabinet so will do it outside.  Luckily it's spring here so numerous showers - the rain will wash away the mess :-)
I tried to buy 10.9 grade bolts for the crownwheelbut none of the local suppliers had them in the size I wanted.  Much as I'm iffy about reusing 40 year old bolts at least I know they fit.  I'd replace the tab washer with Loctite and maybe a spring washer.  Thoughts?

#110 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 13 November 2016 - 02:15 PM

IMG 2177
OK, not the best blasting cabinet - but it did keep the majority of the soda in one place.  About 30 minutes work then results in...

IMG 2178
All clean, all the old black paint blasted off, the incredibly crappy casting open for all to see :-)  Good thing with soda is that it is soluble so a decent wash in hot water gets rid of all the media.  I washed quite a bit just to make sure then blew everything with the air line.  A smear of grease on the bearing surfaces to prevent rust and the jobs a good'un.

IMG 2181
Tap pinion outer race in using a coach bolt (they come in different sizes - so useful to have!).  I had heated the case a touch with a propane torch - not too much but enough to expand the alloy.
I also took stock of the bolts on the final drive crown wheel.

IMG 2179
The flattened threads are not encouraging.  I had tried buying, as mentioned above, replacements but it seems they're only available online, not in local bolt shops.  So again I have a hiatus while I wait for parts to come from abroad.  Still, plenty of time to press new bearings into their respective holes in preparation for setting up the final drive.

#111 luca.stere

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 02:24 PM

View PostMike Goldthorpe, on 13 November 2016 - 02:15 PM, said:

The flattened threads are not encouraging.  I had tried buying, as mentioned above, replacements but it seems they're only available online, not in local bolt shops.  So again I have a hiatus while I wait for parts to come from abroad.  Still, plenty of time to press new bearings into their respective holes in preparation for setting up the final drive.

Mike, take some new bolts. The old ones could create problems, they can crack inside because of the material fatigue.

#112 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 03:15 PM

View Postluca.stere, on 14 November 2016 - 02:24 PM, said:

View PostMike Goldthorpe, on 13 November 2016 - 02:15 PM, said:

The flattened threads are not encouraging.  I had tried buying, as mentioned above, replacements but it seems they're only available online, not in local bolt shops.  So again I have a hiatus while I wait for parts to come from abroad.  Still, plenty of time to press new bearings into their respective holes in preparation for setting up the final drive.

Mike, take some new bolts. The old ones could create problems, they can crack inside because of the material fatigue.

That's what I thought too.  New bolts are on order (higher tensile strength ones).  I looked at the main bolt places in Auckland and couldn't get the correct size.  I didn't fancy grinding bolts down so off to the internet :-)
Today I'll use the work press to push a bearing onto the pinion gear - this time it's the double row bearing that goes "outside".  I can then at least get one piece of the gearing into the housing.  Soon the only part of the final drive that will be original will be the cases :-)

#113 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:27 PM

New bearing pressed onto pinion
20161117 151954
20161117 152043

20161117 152052Thinking I should invest in a press, though the workshop guys don't mind me coming in to use theirs.  They're quite interested in the progress of the Ural :-)  Anyway, one Slovak adn one Ukarainian bearing later, I can press the pinion into the case and wait for the crown wheel bolts.  Then it's tooth contact, lash and bolting it all together.

#114 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 20 November 2016 - 09:42 PM

Little by little...
IMG 2185
IMG 2186
Didn't add any loctite or similar to the screws.  Also surprised how easily the pinion and bearing slipped in with a smidgen of heat on the case.

#115 luca.stere

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 03:22 PM

View PostMike Goldthorpe, on 20 November 2016 - 09:42 PM, said:

Little by little...

You will finish the bike...

#116 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 03:40 PM

New bits arrived so should be able to get this final drive all done and dusted this weekend :-)
IMG 2228
IMG 2229

IMG 2230
IMG 2231

IMG 2233
As you can see some of the newer bits are not identical to 1975 originals.  Close enough, though.  I am assuming the crownsheel can be bolted as shown with a smear of loctite to held them in.

#117 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 03:44 PM

Another niggle.  The adjusting nut from 2016 is not quite the same as the one for 1975
20161209 092350
New one is bevelled at the bottom, old is flat.  I can't get the new one to screw into the final drive casing nice and flush.  I will take this down to the workshop here in the uni and get tehm to machine it so it is the same as the old one.

#118 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 09:06 PM

A few minutes on the lathe and the jobs a good 'un
20161209 150310

#119 Mike Goldthorpe

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 04:42 PM

20161210 171717
I reckon this is done :-)  Used some bright red lipstick to check the tooth contact

20161210 144430
20161210 150209

As this was without the cardan drive put on I think that it is OK where it is.
Backlash was a fraction of a mm.
Took a few goes as initial set up resulted in the final drive being very hard to turn.  I had a couple of shims between the outer cover and the crownwheel bearing

20161210 164354
20161210 164411

These were 0.2mm each.  As the bearing was changed and the new one was different to the Soviet one, I dispensed with these.  I also needed a couple of gaskets.
It feels good now - turns easy enough but still has that mechanical friction (best way I can describe it!).
Had an issue with the wedge bolt, mind.  New one was too small!  I resued the old one as that taps in nice and tight and flush.  I did make sure everything was orientated correctly!
Now I just need to clean the gearbox, get my M66 cylinder heads (I hope I am being sent the right ones - I specified up down carb studs, not side by side) and the drive train will be sorted. Do a wee bit of work on the frame to re-repair some "improvements" made before I got it and I should be looking on starting the beast in 2017.

#120 SafetyBob

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 04:55 PM

Keep us posted.. I do so love your project....
SB#3
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