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Bolts Loosening on MT-16 Differential

differential loose bolts MT-16

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#16 MTRRAD

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 11:30 AM

Dave,
How fast will she go? I have a silly need to cruise at 65 MPH. To that end I am building a BMW/2 supersidecar bike. R100S engine in a 1965 /2 frame. She should do 85 easily, but it would be nice to drive to work in under an hour.

Where is spell check on this thing?

#17 dneprlover

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 01:30 PM

If you want to cruise at 65mph on an MT16, there are several things you can do;

1) make sure your life insurance is up to date
2) reserve a place for yourself in a cemetery
3) make arrangements to dispose of a scrap bike
4) select your cruising route on the steepest, straightest downhill incline you can find.

Most people cruise one between 40-45mph. I find myself going no faster than 55mph without feeling uncomfortable on any of mine.

If I want fast cruising, I use my BMW r80 powered MT11 outfit . That will touch 90 with solo gearing. Fully loaded it will  cruise at 70 but drinks fuel like I drink beer. I got a speeding ticket on it for 84mph a few years ago. Handling is excellent but the brakes poor at those speeds so one needs plenty of  room on the road.

#18 Bilge Keel Dave

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 03:56 PM

I have had my MT-16 to 60 mph on a flat road, the engine sounded very busy, though it rode smoothly. Maybe with some taller gears in the final drive, it would cruise at 60 or 65. It has plenty of grunt at low rpm now, so it is possible that starting off with taller first gear would not require much clutch slipping.

I don't think I'll be messing with the final drive though, most of my riding is on country roads with a fifty mph or less speed limit.

Dave
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#19 MTRRAD

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 10:16 PM

I've got a lot of miles on fast sidecars. If I can get the wheels round she'll drive ok. She just has a little trouble stopping. Didn't someone market some real sticky brake shoes for these bikes?

#20 dneprlover

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Posted 03 February 2015 - 03:04 AM

Most clutch and brake relining shops can change the original linings to something more modern and better. Ask at your local autoparts store if you don't know anywhere.

#21 MTRRAD

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Posted 03 February 2015 - 11:38 AM

I live in rural Southern Indiana, there is no place around here that will reline motorcycle brake shoes. The reason i was able to get this bike so cheap is that no one around here wanted anything to do with it.
Is there an online seller of sticky shoes?

#22 Serious Black

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Posted 03 February 2015 - 11:53 AM

Those bolts were wirelocked on my bike. It would easily top 80 km/h but the engine was tuned. Like I said, I also managed to explode the diff gears.

Double silencer exhaust with balance pipe liberates about 4hp. Taking the sharp edges out out the ports ads about 1000rpm (Don't make the bottom side radius too round, about 4mm is enough. Re-profile the valve edges and lead up to the seat by putting the valves in a drill and using aluminium oxide paper. Remove most of the wall round the valve pockets in the piston to improve flow into the chamber at low valve lifts. Use Ural 650 valve springs and piston rings as the Ukranians seem to have forgotten how to make steel. Tear the paper off the filter element and wrap it with filter foam from one of the rally parts specialists. Smooth the sharp edges on the airbox ends where they lead into the rubber manifold tubes. Open out the intake into the airbox to about twice it's standard area. Electronic ignition.

Carbs - if I was doing this again I'd buy Mikuni VM28mm from india and use Ural America settings as a guide but go up one on the needle jet and two on the main jets for starters. I had chinese Keihin copies which worked well but corroded in winter salt. If I remeber right they worked well straight out of the box. Don't forget the inertial supercharger. BP7HS plugs, if they are too far in the threads then try BP7ES. It seems to be ok if the non-threaded end of the plug is a little proud. I never got round to using BP7ES and aluminium spacers to get the plug depth just right. Indexing the plugs seemed to help too.

More compression screws up the combustion chamber even more. You WILL need to improve the brakes! The bike I did all this to was an MT11 had a 5 speed 'kremlin patrol' electric start gearbox and returned excellent economy, the MT16 had most of it done. The only hiccup was carb icing in damp conditions with air temps just over freezing.

At the end of the day I still prefer a properly built and set up Ural 650.

P.S. It did about 120km/h WITH a sidecar......and yes, you do get quite a sensation of speed.........
The devil is in the detail.

#23 Ken Ulrich

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 11:17 PM

As most people realize, these bikes have been together, and apart numerous times, they have also worked loose on their own, be cause the diff wants to spin forwards or back all the time. The cure is not in tightening to nuts till  the studs strip out of the casting.  If  you find such is the case , heli coil all four or two studs into the casting,   Now, if you make a plain paper gasket, about .006-.010 inch thick, and place it between the casting and the frame, I think you will find, that it will now stay in place, as the gasket bites into all the scratches and marring of the metal surfaces.  By the way, if you should happen to only think that metric is the only way to measure, consider the thickness as of  a playing card......(Now I just know I will hear about this).....Ken

#24 lobofuego

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 11:14 AM

Helicoiling works, little doubt about it.....but me I prefer a timesert, much better, !....

#25 racepres

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 05:44 PM

View Postlobofuego, on 04 May 2015 - 11:14 AM, said:

Helicoiling works, little doubt about it.....but me I prefer a timesert, much better, !....

Depends on the application for me...Timeserts I don't use...I prefer the Threaded inserts from Fastenall...uses regular size tapped hole....
Helicoil has it's place...so does a threaded insert...For me it is about the tension expected...

#26 Bilge Keel Dave

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 08:06 PM

Helicoil, Timesert, Fastenall, they all do the same thing. Arguing about which is better is like arguing about how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.

They all work great and I'd use whatever is available.
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#27 racepres

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 08:11 PM

View PostBilge Keel Dave, on 04 May 2015 - 08:06 PM, said:

Helicoil, Timesert, Fastenall, they all do the same thing. Arguing about which is better is like arguing about how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.

They all work great and I'd use whatever is available.

Oh!!! I do agree...Just that I prefer the ones that do Not require a "special" Tap.
And Cheaper...as I am a COB

#28 racepres

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 08:12 PM

View Postracepres, on 04 May 2015 - 08:11 PM, said:

View PostBilge Keel Dave, on 04 May 2015 - 08:06 PM, said:

Helicoil, Timesert, Fastenall, they all do the same thing. Arguing about which is better is like arguing about how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.

They all work great and I'd use whatever is available.

Oh!!! I do agree...Just that I prefer the ones that do Not require a "special" Tap.
And Cheaper...as I am a COB
also I firmly believe that an Insert has a More specialized place than a Helicoil!






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