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The Carburetor Debate

carburetorfuel upgrade k65 k68 k301

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#16 racepres

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 10:55 AM

Absolutely. Good price [right now] too...

#17 ivar

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:35 PM

thanks..   any idea on which range of main jets to start with?  (same seller sells packs of 10 jets for not many bucks)
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#18 racepres

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:37 PM

View Postivar, on 11 January 2015 - 01:35 PM, said:

thanks..   any idea on which range of main jets to start with?  (same seller sells packs of 10 jets for not many bucks)

Sorry...No Clue, as I said before I prefer my k-65's No clue how to set-up a Mikuni on a Rusky!

#19 ivar

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:49 PM

was more directed at Serious Black, as he has hands-on experience with these :smile:    (although on a flathead from what I undestand)
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#20 Serious Black

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:51 PM

The Indian one have a flange mount so you need to make/buy an adapter. I used the Russian K65 adapter. You will have to grind a bit of a fin. I also managed to squeeze in the 'inertial supercharger'' but it didn't leave much room for the hoses to the air filter.

There are also VM28 from India for a sane price. VM28 were used by Ural America a long time ago so the setting will be on here somewhere if anybody wants to try them on their 650.
The devil is in the detail.

#21 Serious Black

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 01:54 PM

View Postivar, on 11 January 2015 - 01:49 PM, said:

was more directed at Serious Black, as he has hands-on experience with these :smile: (although on a flathead from what I undestand)

Hei Ivar, sjekk NRMF sin Facebook side. Jeg har nylig klistret noen filer med info på Norsk på den.

I'd try between 85 & 95
The devil is in the detail.

#22 ivar

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 02:12 PM

thanks - found the fb page
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#23 Stromski

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Posted 14 April 2015 - 12:13 AM

About to switch carbs, but i'm not sure if i'm hanging the wrong guy.

I blew a hole in the piston of my 1992 MT16 back in August.  Couple of months to come to grips with that.  Couple more months to sort out parts, couple more to do it...

The cylinder (left) where I replaced the piston is running fine.  When I pull the other spark plug wire, it settles in to a nice, low idle.  The previously good cylinder (right), dies when I pull the left plug wire.  When both are running, it idles fast, really fast.

I suspected an air leak, and the now bad right carb had blown out the carb gasket.  I also found that the previous owner had put the washers from the carb bolts INSIDE the insulator/gasket link.  Even though I changed the gasket, the carb insulator may have been deformed enough to prevent a good seal.  I don't hear the "whooshinng" that I heard before, but I am not confident that there is not some air leak between the carb and cylinder.

In the ensuing carbeuretor dramas, I have dissasembled/reassembled the right carb enough to where the gasket between the float bowl and body is leaking.  I tried pulling the gas line, and the brass piece pulled out of the carb body and there is still some gas weepage from that link.  Do I give up on the carbs and replace them?  Do I try to find the esoteric gaskets to fix multiple fuel leaks?

#24 racepres

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Posted 14 April 2015 - 09:05 AM

I made the gaskets in my K65's. Not hard to do...[I think mine are Budweiser case] May I suggest that if the carb overflows the Float needle is set too high. The gasket doesn't really hold the bowl of fuel in...Just what sloshes.
A bit of 1104 3-Bond on the gasket face of Carb flange will certainly stop small leakage...
One wonders what sort of "mechanic" puts the washers between the Carb body and Flange...
You may need to seek out other "modifications" by this "Poser"

#25 whiterabbit

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 07:55 AM

I've actually seen the washers under the flange thing. Alot of novice and pro mechanics use too thick and soft gasket marerial to try to seal a joint and to "prevent over tightening" stick those washers in it. Ughhhh. You need to use a thin gasket on carbs with thin flanges or you will warp the flanges and then it'll never seal. I sand the flanges on a flat plate and use gaskets cut from manilla folders or very thin gasket material to help prevent warping the flanges.
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'94 Dnepr MT-16 no longer in bits n pieces!!!

#26 Serious Black

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 10:35 AM

Don't know about the mixture but you will need rubber flange adapters with them.

I used these: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f27d819f8
The devil is in the detail.

#27 teg

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Posted 22 April 2015 - 02:31 PM

The measurements for the Mikunis that came stock on the late 90s models are:
size:  28mm
main jet: 110
pilot jet:  35
needle:  5F21
cutaway:  2.5

Holopaw has the intake boots which also have a port for syncing them.
Terry
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#28 ivar

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 07:24 AM

... realised I'd forgotten to order carb adapters/boots to put the mikuni om my MT16.  

Anyone recall the bolt c-c for the bolts mounting the carbs to the heads?   (I'm 1000 miles away from the bike at the moment..)

I'll check with holopaw what they got for boots.
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#29 whiterabbit

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 07:43 AM

I'll run out and check my MT16 bolt C-C for ya'!
My bike came with K68's with a cracked plastic top on one. Anyone know where to get a new top cap??
It also came with a pair of torn apart K65's in a box. Worth ordering parts and rebuilding?

Thanks,
Mike
"It’s the unconquerable soul of man, not the nature of the weapon he uses, that insures victory."
Gen. George Patton

'94 Dnepr MT-16 no longer in bits n pieces!!!

#30 whiterabbit

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 07:57 AM

I'm getting approx. 53cm (2.085") C-C
That measurement changed a bit from head to head, gasket to gasket and cheap knock off carb to cheap knock off carb! :rolleyes:
"It’s the unconquerable soul of man, not the nature of the weapon he uses, that insures victory."
Gen. George Patton

'94 Dnepr MT-16 no longer in bits n pieces!!!





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