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drive shaft damper flung apart


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#1 Judd

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 11:30 PM

,,,, on my 2011 Ural T. To be specific, the .composition damper at the front of the shaft, closest the tranny. Is there a known issue with these dampers14? Or, my luck,,,, I juss pulled the short straw? Bike has roughly 14K, haven't been rough on it either. Rubber didn't tear. Merely outer ring just peeled off and took out my r. brake wiring will at it. Any spares out the to buy?

#2 Russ Noe

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 11:26 AM

View PostJudd, on 06 July 2014 - 11:30 PM, said:

,,,, on my 2011 Ural T. To be specific, the .composition damper at the front of the shaft, closest the tranny. Is there a known issue with these dampers14? Or, my luck,,,, I juss pulled the short straw? Bike has roughly 14K, haven't been rough on it either. Rubber didn't tear. Merely outer ring just peeled off and took out my r. brake wiring will at it. Any spares out the to buy?
Judd:
I am not familiar with any recent issues with the "donut" ring failing, although I HAVE heard of old ones where the ring weld fails.
Considering the young age of your rig, do contact your nearest Ural dealer, asking for a replacement despite no longer being on warranty.  
That specific failure is unusual, and IMWA should be informed about it.
~RN

#3 racepres

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 11:34 AM

My Donut..."rubber" Failed in about that mileage on my '07..Not gonna call it Abuse, but it did Not have an Easy life.
The outer ring was OK, just the Rubber Part got "crushed".

#4 Judd

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 06:08 PM

I was pretty easy on it. I know "easy" is a relative term but compared to my bikes,,,, I handled the Ural with kid gloves. A woman had it before me and I sorta doubt see was doinng many redline clutch drops on it either. I'll take Russ's advice ad contact my local dealer and see what happens.

#5 Russ Noe

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 12:04 PM

View PostJudd, on 07 July 2014 - 06:08 PM, said:

[snip]
I'll take Russ's advice and contact my local dealer and see what happens.

Please let us know how this works out for you.
~RN

#6 Judd

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 01:05 AM

Hey Russ, I called Holopaw Ural today and the part is around 60$ so I think I'll just fix it myself. Too much hassle to get it to the nearest dealer {BlueMoon}.

#7 Russ Noe

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 03:49 PM

View PostJudd, on 10 July 2014 - 01:05 AM, said:

Hey Russ, I called Holopaw Ural today and the part is around 60$ so I think I'll just fix it myself. Too much hassle to get it to the nearest dealer {BlueMoon}.
OK.  I trust your welding skills are up to the task.  Otherwise your legs might not like it...
~RN

#8 Judd

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 09:40 PM

Well, I do weld decently with a MIG but umm,,,,,, I thought this part was a bolt thingie?

#9 Russ Noe

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 12:43 AM

View PostJudd, on 11 July 2014 - 09:40 PM, said:

Well, I do weld decently with a MIG but umm,,,,,, I thought this part was a bolt thingie?
I am thinking of the metal ring around the rubber "donut" that acts as a drive cushion between the transmission and the final drive.
I thought I understood that the ring broke, and you are considering repairing it, which usually means welding.
I must not be understanding what you are referring to. Sorry.
Further clarification, please?
~RN

#10 Vance Blosser

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 07:35 PM

I had 2 of these fail on my older Urals (1994 and a 2000). The ring outside the rubber is under a lot of tension, I guess to prevent the rubber from tearing apart by applying pressure. I would think if you weld it while installed it would melt the rubber, you might have to rig something to press the rubber back in.

#11 Judd

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 01:18 AM

No, I bought a new part.

View PostJudd, on 10 July 2014 - 01:05 AM, said:

Hey Russ, I called Holopaw Ural today and the part is around 60$ so I think I'll just fix it myself. Too much hassle to get it to the nearest dealer {BlueMoon}.
No welding needed. Bolt on. In any event, the outer metal ring simply came off the rubber inner hub. The metal ring didn't split and even though it was flug around by the drive shaft hitting the frame and my poor brake/running light wiring, it's seems none the worse for the ride. I suppose one could press the rubber back in the ring then spot weld a few tabs equal spaced on both sides to keep it from happening again. Thinking about it, I just might do that and keep as a spare. Like I said, the rubber insert is perfect, the metal ring is fine, simply,, the metal ring decided to parts ways for some reason. Which does bug me,,,,, why would it walk off the rubber? I've seen OEM engine dampers do the same thing but it was because they were spun at a significantly higher rpm on a regular basis than they were designed for.

#12 Judd

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 01:25 AM

View PostVance Blosser, on 12 July 2014 - 07:35 PM, said:

I had 2 of these fail on my older Urals (1994 and a 2000). The ring outside the rubber is under a lot of tension, I guess to prevent the rubber from tearing apart by applying pressure. I would think if you weld it while installed it would melt the rubber, you might have to rig something to press the rubber back in.
  I have access to a couple of pretty good presses at work. I'm guessing I could slather the O.D. of the rubber down in a black weather stripping adhesive, press it back together and let dry. Then, like I said earlier, I bend up some small metal tabs that I could then spot weld to the O.D. of the metal ring. If spaced at one every 90 degrees, balance wouldn't be effected. I could drill a couple of holes in each tap to facilitate the spot weld. Once I mig one hole in, immediately quench with water then move to the opposite tab doing the same. It would slightly melt the rubber in each migged spot but if you take pains to quench immediately, I see no big issues. Bet that ring wouldn't fly of again. What y'all think of this idea?

#13 MotoJ

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 09:03 AM

What if you bent 90 dgr tabs and spot welded them (say 4) on each side? that way you're welding on the face of the ring and not the edge where the rubber and metal meet. Less chance of a lot of melt.
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#14 Judd

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 01:47 AM

I didn't convey my idea very well but that's what I was talking about. Tab would look like this- [ With the large section fitting across the metal ring and the small 90 degree bends locking in the rubber. Two holes drilled in each tab so I could mig it to the ring.

#15 Vance Blosser

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 06:17 PM

Experimentation always yields some kind of answer - go for it!




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