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2004 electric start, clonky box


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#16 lobofuego

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 12:59 PM

well it was an old tin ..red in colour with" 1lb of flake graphite."...upon it ...no other specifics but it is very fine....so...added it to the Ural box too,
along with some 15/40  and some wynns gearbox "improver" stuff(i like Wynns)....and some of this flake graphite!....
Better....in fairness I am using it more now , and that could help...but it is markedly better...almost ok!
will continue till it is "very good"...but i am sure it isnt technique, as i have tried all of that and am not a "newbie"

#17 frany

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 05:04 PM

View PostJPanyon, on 22 August 2013 - 11:22 AM, said:

I will happily take David at F2, or any other Uralista for a ride.  I'll use either my rig, or theirs (they make the choice, not me!), and then run the rig through the gears using 5,000 rpm shifts AND nary a clunk to be heard.  How?  Simply use the gear box as it was designed to be used, and double clutch each shift as though it were a truck (lorry) transmission.  Didn't anyone wonder why there's a false "neutral" between gear sets?  If you refuse to do this, then live with the clunks or use low rpm shifts (lugs the engine!) or stomp the shifter and hell with the consequences.  As for me, I like noiseless smooth shifts 'cause the voices in my head tell me so...all along a quarter million miles of biking with "clunker" gearboxes on BMW airheads and Ural 750's.  Happy Shifting To All... John Panyon
I have never found a false neutral in order to double clutch you have to match the engine speed to the trans.If there is some kind of trich to finding neutral between shifts I shure would like to know what it is.

#18 Ken Ulrich

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 07:32 PM

Pro's and Con's, ural and Dnepr trannies; The Dnepr trannie has dogs, when you shift, they slide along a splined shafts, and then engage the gears that are already in mesh, this is what gives  the smooth engagement. In the ural and Bmw, when you shift, you slide the whole gear along a shaft, those shafts, need to be revolving about the samespeed, to get a smooth shift, are not doing that. John double clutches and gets smooth shifts. most trannies of yesterday, needed to be double clutched to shift smooth. Any of the WW2 and Korean wars Jockies always had to learn to double clutch the various trucks and such. Bottom line, if you want to shift smooth, dubble clutch.

Graphite: Sooner or later you will curse the day you put graphite in  the crank case: when a little oil get past the rings, the  graphite will in an instant foul the plugs, graphite is an excellant conductor of electricity. Hence, it is used in compressed form for gen and alt brushes. The only cure is to sandblast very carefully each plug, until they foul again. :ohmy:

You will curse your luck on a mountain road , when a hard working engine starts leaking a small amount of oil onto the clutch, which will promptly slip like mad........after you shut it off, you will find it difficult to kick start the engine, as the clutch will slip. If you are lucky to have an E start keep going......That is until you are sailing down a steep hill and apply the rear brake, the graphite that make the gears so smooth back there, will have leaked just enough oil and graphite back on the rear brake shoes and drums. That will lead you to the fact that you can stop faster, if you wave your hat! That was your lucky day, as you went off a cliff and landed in a lake that was deep enough, to cause you to cease sweating, Two days later the tow truck arrieves, the engine was reving up nicely in mid-air, due to your death grip on the bars, as it hit the water, it swallowed enough water to destroy the innards of your trusty Ural, you spend much green, to rebuild the engine, also a quicky wash and wear to the rear brake, but graphite is a metal that will find it's way in to the grain of the metal in the rear brake....it stills slips like mand you found that out when you just missed a little old lady in a cross walk, she "ished" her panties, the cop saw it all and doesen't believe you, you have a date in traffic court, Even your wife does not believe you .....Some where in all this you  the joy of Uraling has gone south...RATS RATS RATS........Ken :cool:
Of course  you can look for an absolutly leak proof Ural :smileywaving:

#19 JPanyon

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 09:45 PM

Frany...
Sent a private message to answer your questions...

John Panyon - 200,000 miles on flat twins, and counting...

#20 JPanyon

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 09:53 PM

Hey Ken, thanks for the chuckles.  I'm gonna make a pilgrimage from South Bend to Fond du Lac.  I'd like to make a side trip to stop in and meet and greet with you.  Any chance you've got your scheduling all figured out.  I'm open for any suggestion.

Thanks in advance...
John Panyon

#21 lobofuego

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Posted 24 April 2014 - 12:39 PM

well....no troubles thus far...me and it have sort of worn each other in a bit and are now sort of in sync...The Dnepr...is locked in shed...and I have bought meself a Trike....
if  hear you crying out there...Its got a Dnepr box, Rear frame....and a CITROEN!!! engine....It has tried to  murder  me...thus far, tis mad,just mad enough

#22 lobofuego

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 04:58 PM

Sold the bloody trike!....am back on ural....still clunky/cranky...Dnepr still in Garage...

#23 lobofuego

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Posted 03 April 2015 - 06:52 AM

Anyway, the conclusion to this was this...Having rode her all winter in all conditions...removed the bloody K&n,s as they sucked in as much water as air, and it run very badly ...so back to original( filters)  ugly...but they work!...found final drive play and replaced U/J...then axle oil seals, and whilst there removed clutch...well knackered!!, Tightened output flange nut (well loose!)...the clutch was not well worn except for the splined section which had worn down till only a sliver of spline was left on them...
Its a lot nicer now,....but to behonest it was not showing signs of imminent  failure,  cept   for the  gearchange, and the rattle...




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