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Replacing shock seals & refilling shocks


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#31 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:11 PM

Closer view

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John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

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#32 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:12 PM

Slide it all back into the cylinder.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
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#33 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:15 PM

OK, in the home stretch...

Now put the shock housing back into the vise (snug, not tight) and slip the shock adjustment ratchet ring on the housing.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
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#34 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:23 PM

Measure youreslf out 105 ml of shock fluid...  (Not sure what that is in SAE/Imperial units - some smarty pants here will hafta do the conversion)

What is shock fluid you ask?  Well, I'm convinced that these shocks will work with just about any oil: spindle oil, motor oil, baby oil, Oil of Olay, moose-whizz, whatever...

Last time at Bill Glaser's we used some Castrol 20W50.  All I had lying around as far as pure dino oil was some 10W40.  I had some Castrol Syntec 20W50, but since that's half synthetic, it's pretty thin and not very viscous.  The thicker the oil you use, the stiffer the suspension will be.  I like a more rigid suspension.  Next time I might try a straight 40 weight and see what happens.

Now here's where the great shock oil thread will come into play.  Some of ya that live up in the North that get that cold, white "snow" stuff might not want to use too thick of an oil as it turns to goo in cold freezy weather. I live in sunny Florida where I don't hafta worry about that.  Let the oil thread/flame war commence...  :o  :lol:  :surprise:  ;)

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
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#35 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:25 PM

Now pour that 105ml of whatever oil it is you decide to use into the shock housing...

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#36 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:29 PM

Then gently slip the shock rod assembly (with the cylinder on) back into the shock housing.  I find it works best if you leave the cylinder a tad loose on the piston/rod assembly and let a little oil flow into the cylinder.  

Don't panic if ya overflow and spill some.  The red rag in the vise will absorb your spillage...  ;)   After your first shock, you'll learn how to do it with minimal spillage.

Be careful not to nick or monger up the top round square seal on the piston rod on the internal threads on the shock housing.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#37 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:32 PM

Now carefully, by hand, get the nut with the 4 holes in it threaded back into the shock housing.  They are fine threads and easy to cross thread or booger up.  This shock's first thread was already kinda boogered, so it took a little finessing to get it started.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#38 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:35 PM

Then use your Ural shock tool to tighten the nut with the 4 holes.

If it's hard to turn, back it off, you might have the nut/shock housing cross threaded.  It should turn without a whoe lot of force.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#39 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:39 PM

Once you have it all the way tightened, then stick a scredriver or some other metal rod thru the eyelet of the shock (while still in the vise) and pump the shock up and down a few times.  At first it will be easy, but as enough fluid gets drawn into the piston and cylinder, it will be wasy to compress but harder to pull apart.  About 5 or 6 pumps should do it.

If ya don't have a vise, just use two screwdrivers or metal rods (pne in each end of the shock) and pump it like you would that old tire pump in the trunk of your hack.  ;)

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#40 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:40 PM

Then insert it back into the shock compressor through the bottom 2-1/8" hole.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#41 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:45 PM

Then put the keepers back in place, make sure the top and bottom shock eyelets are lined up, and loosen the tension on the shock compressor by loosening the nuts on the threaded rods on the shock compressor jig.  Remember, do it evenly, 5 turns at a time on each side.  You might have to hold the keepers in place with one hand while loosening the shock compressor rod nuts.  This is where Bill Glaser's Workmate bench/vise/table comes in thady as you can uncomress the shock vertically and gravity holds the keepers in place.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#42 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 09:47 PM

Tahhh-Dahhhh!  Re-assembled shock with new seals!  B)

Take that thing back to the drain pan and hose off the springs so ya can tell when it starts leaking again!   :o  :lol:  :surprise:

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#43 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 10:00 PM

Now reinstall the shock...

What works best for me.  have the hydraulic jack under the bike and you can adjust by gently raising the bike in small amounts the differnce in length between the yop shaft of the shock mount and the hole in the swingarm.  The center stand works well too, but you lose that adjustablity.

Before you slip the top eyelet on the shaft at the top end, I find it works best to get the bottom end in place and get the bolt started in the threads.  The threaded end of the bottom shock eyelet (one side of the "U" end eyelets is threaded the other is not) goes on the inboard side nearest to the wheel.

Once you have the bottom bolt through the rubber grommet on the swingarm and started into the threaded end of the U at the bottom of the shock then swing the upper end of the shock near the top shaft, gently pull it outward and then slip it on the shaft.  You might need to adjust that jack.  Dont be afraid to use the BFH (big freaking hammer) to tap the shock to get the bottom eyelet lined up or the top eyelet on the top shaft.

Use the 12mm wrench to tighten the top bolt and the 14mm wrench to tighten the bottom bolt.  

Note: If you have a bench and passenger grab bars (like I do) youl have to loosen the bolt that holds the grab bar to the bench seat bracket and rear fender rail and swing the grab bar out of the way to  remove and install the shock.  Remember to re-install the grab bar on the tops shock mount, and tighten the other bolt that holds it to the bench seat mount/rear fender rail.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#44 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 10:03 PM

Installed shock - sorry it's so shiney Cob!   :o   Don't worry, I'll have it all nasty looking again soon!  ;)

Note: I used the other end of the Ural shock tool to rotate the shock frimness ratcheting adjustment.  Again, I like the firmer suspension.

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.

#45 JohnBG

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 10:12 PM

Repeat the process for other shocks as necessary...

It seems like an ordeal with the length of this write-up, but it took me about an hour to do the first shock and that included taking all the pictures and observing exactly how all the parts went together.  It took me 15 minutes to do the 2nd shock (and the hardest part was removing and remounting the shock).

I only did the two rear shocks as they were the only two that were leaking.  The fronts and sidecar shock were fine and showed no signs of leaking.

If you have a 1WD model, the sidecar shock is the biggest pain in the butt to remove and re-install.  I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I don't know what it is!  :o

For more detail on exactly how the shocks work, read Ed Paynter's excellent article in the "Articles" page of the RIMC website, or visit Bill Glaser's Ural repair website at http://www.myural.com

Special thanks to Bill Glaser for letting me copy his shock compressor tool and showing me how to refill these shocks months ago.    B)

Did I do it right Bill?  :huh:

Attached Files


John Grocke (a.k.a. JohnBG)
1998.5 Ural Tourist 650 - "Valentina" - The Blonde
2006 Ural Raven 750 - "Vorona" - The Brunette

Site Admin for Soviet Steeds Motorcycle Forums - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums - An independent "collective" for Soviet, Russian, and Ukrainian motorcycle enthusiasts
Now visit the Soviet Steeds Photo Galleries - http://www.sovietsteeds.com/galleries - Add your own pics.




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