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Screw the ring gear


Vestgote
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However, the work is halted because I´ve missplaced the washers sitting under the big ball bearing in the cap, the ones used to setting the clearance between the ring gear and the pinion. Does anyone know the size and thickness of those?

 

:biggrin:

 

If you're referring to the shims, they come in three thicknesses - 0.07 -0. 08 mm, 0.16 - 0.18 mm and 0.36 - 0.40mm. How many and which sizes depends on the lash of the gearset. I've only done that job once many years ago when I put solo gears into a friends M-63. We played around with different combinations for both the pinion and crownwheel for hours until we got a nice even wear in the engineers blue.

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Oh dear oh dear..... I have to say that you need to practice a little more with the wirelocking. It is not an easy thing to be good at. I remember many `happy` hours as an apprentice learning. Where did you get the bolts in the end?

 

hehe, as I said, it needs a bit of working. I´ve seen different ways of doing wire locking. One way is to twist the wire, the other is to just do the shape of an 8. I tried the twist method on three of the bolt pairs and the 8 method on the last one. I think I will redo the twisted ones to the 8 shape method as it is easier to tension the wire, it is not as efficient as a twisted wire done good though.

 

I bought the bolts from a company called Sternhammar somewhere aroung Örebro I think. The are standard M8x1.25x25 so I had to cut them down. The reason I bought them from Sternhammar is because Kim at Charlottendals MC recommended a class 10 material strength.

Drilling the holes in the bolt heads was much easier than I thought. Everything went smooth, not even one drill bit snapped. 1.5 mm bit, a steady drill, some lube and a bit of coution was all it took.

 

:biggrin:

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I just used what was lying around: 1 mm iron wire. Biltema has somthing called "najtråd" and alot of pliers and tools to go with it. According to them that´s the stuff to use when wire locking.

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  • 2 weeks later...

SB, never dare sling mud at farmers, they all have more than you and some has a very brown color to it and will affect your love life...promptly....Ken :flame-on!: .... :thumbsup!:

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Wasn't knocking farmers, just trying to point out the soft iron wire used for fencing and hay bailing might not be the best for holding the bolts in a motorcycle transmission. Sorry if it looked otherwise. Most farmers I know have lots of something I respect - MONEY.

 

Westgøte, when I get home I'm going to look at the callender and get my summer organised. The will hopefully include a trip to Kungsbakka to the Dubliner household again. Shall we see about getting a Scaninavian Russian Iron get together sorted out?

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SB, I hope I didn't come across as serious about farmers, but I recall the old fords and chevy trannies and diffs were safty wired with soft iron wire, I have used a lot of aviation safty wire and other than being rust proof, it feels about the same....Ken

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Using iron wire in your motorcicle would go under the category "bonne-meck" in Sweden.

 

Anyway. Organising the summer sounds like an excellent idea. I would be happy to meet up with both you, the Dublin boy and any other russian rider in Sweden. I´ll just have to get my ride going, it doesn´t look very nice at the moment: I think I mashed the big double bearing sitting on the pinion shaft in the FD. I pressed the bearing on to the pinion with the vice, everything felt fine and smooth. Then I carefully knocked the pinion into the FD house taking care it sliped in to the roller bearing. Then a last knock on the pinion shaft to get it seated messed up everything: I can rotate the pinion but It feels like there are grooves in one of the bearings, it´s also a quite hard to rotate. The is enough clearance between the house and the pinion splines. It might be that the FD housing is so roughly made that when you knock everything in, the two pinion bearings doesn´t line up properly.

 

My second issue is: I´ve tried to knock the ring gear on to the FD lid and it have slipped on a few cm quite smoothely, but on the last half cm, no matter how hard I bang my quite heavy rubber hammer, It only goes down about half a millimeter. Is it supposed to be that hard?

 

:thumbsup!:

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Sounds like there is something wrong with your transmission there. Everything should spin freely. Does the double row ballbearing spin free after you have fitted it to the shaft? If not you may need to get a fraction of a millimeter machined off the the shaft. My cover was a little difficult to get the last 10mm or so as the cover engaged the bearing in the crown wheel.

 

Stephfather is from Sverige and DneprCossack is Norsk, I usually drop in to visit DneprCossack in the summer so I'll try and get him interested. My thoughts were to either meet up at Dubliners or ride down to have a look at your project. Hopefully the weather gods will be kinder than when I rode down to Dubliner last year. I got caught in a rain storm on the Motorway north of Gøteborg and got absolutley soaked. The worst part was that my mobile telephone got wat too so if anything had gon wrong rescue would have been a long way off. Now I have a special water tight bag for it. It looks like I'll still be using the Ural for the summer as the MT16 isn't ready and I'm not really willing to trust the K750 for that sort of journey at the moment. I will have to tidy the Ural up though as it is looking shabby after four Norwegian winters.

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Well, if you guys don't mind camping in the garden it's not a problem! Your bedroom has been taken over by Alex, Bill

 

:rolleyes:

 

Fidelma, my Dnepr, is behaving herself. But I need to spend more time with her....

 

Dub

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