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Points advance weights


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Hello there

  my Dnepr MT10/36 has normal points set up running through a CDI unit. It starts first time everytime and runs very well.

The only thing is, when I was setting it up, I couldn`t get it to start at all with the new style advance weights and it only runs with the old style weights that were already very old when I built it and look flimsy.

now the old weights is starting to fall apart and I had to do a botch job to get the bike going. Does anyone know the difference between these 2 types of weights and why the old style works and the new ones don`t ? The old style seem very difficult to find, does anybody know where to get them?

 It really does not even try to start with the new style weights, still starts first kick with the old ones. Any ideas welcome.

  Ride safe

  jim

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Sounds like a timing issue.  Carefully inspect the geometry differences of the old and new weights.

RussN

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Thanks, Russ

Yes, I have compared what the cam position is for both weights and it looks the same. The old style weights have a longer flat section. Which would mean the points are closed for a longer duration. I know these are the old style weights that everyone complains about, but my bike starts and runs perfectly with them. I notice that Oltimer garage sells the complete points ignition system with the old weights, but I have loads of them already and just need the weights. I also have a couple of electronic ignitions here that I might convert to, but I was quite happy running the points thru a CDI and Suzuki coil. By the way, I did move the timing about with the new weights to see if I could find a position where they would work, but they are either a mile out or the delay isn't long enough, or some other reason.

  I have fixed the dislodged weight with a tiny screw just for today as I had to take the kids somewhere, but I'll fiddle a bit more over the next few days. 

  Rude safe

  jim

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Found out what it was. I was sitting by the river (very Zen) and it came to me. It's sort of embarassing, but anyway.

I hadn't adjusted the points gap tp suit the new lobe. Came home and set it to 0.5mm and the bike srarted right away. But

it was way too retarded as I had it set as late as possible with the old style weights, now it's as early as possible and still feels like it's holding back a wee bit at top speed, but that could also be the carbs, maybe. I'll give it a bit of a tune up and see. But as far as I can see, now I can use the new style weights, which is good news.

  Sometimes the answer comes from nowhere.

 Ride safe

   Jim

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Hi, fellas

  I'm not quite sure yet. Took it out for another test ride and it's still holding back approaching top speed.

Feels like it's not advancing enough, it needs more investigation. I have it as far advanced as it will go.

maybe I need some more time by the river!

 Ride safe

  jim

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Just a quick update. I bit the bullet and installed the electronic ignition. Fired up first time. Tickover good and top end back to normal.

I tried all day to get the points working. Changed points and the back plate. I even swapped the strong spring for a weaker one and still couldn't get full advance. Maybe I was too attached to the points, but happy enough now that it is running well.

   Ride safe 

jim

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A good development.

I've been a fan of electronic ignitions for decades.  The are a better idea.

Pleased to hear you are back riding successfully.

RussN

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Thanks, Russ

  Yes, I know that EI is a better system, but I had become attached to the points.

It also means I can carry a complete spare ignition system with me that I can change in 15 minutes at the side of the road.

I'm still using the Suzuki coil that came as a pair for about 10 dollars, so I have it as a spare too. Better all round and it is running very well.

  Ride safe

  jim

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I know, Becky, but it's so small and I don't mind a bit of ballast weight. What price peace of mind?

One of my other bikes is aBMW R80 and I carried an emergency gear change tool in my toolbox for nearly 10 years

and never used it...until July when my pawl spring broke on the way to work while I was in 2nd gear.

  It makes me happy to have a spare ignition with me. I'm sure I am carrying 20  things that I'll never use and

hopefully the spare ignition is one of them.

  Ride safe

  jim

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I believe she is referring to the days when the 35 amp Russian alternator was used on the Urals. A good design but poorly executed they failed a lot. I used to carry a spare in the trunk and had to use it on many occasions. There were a few good ones that folks never had trouble with, but if there was any issue in the bike's wiring they were gone quickly. On my 2000 Tourist I found that there was a break in the wiring harness from the factory, it had been trapped between the frame and gas tank. As you rode the connection would make and break and this would kill the alternator pretty quickly.

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On the alternator subject:  I recently re-discovered that I have a brand new Ural "factory-reworked to resolve failure issues" ( early 2000s)  35 Amp alternator in my parts collection.

Anyone need one?

RussN

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