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dnepr electronic ignition


fitz
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happy new year folks....

 i got sent by the PO a electronic ignition. no instructions with it. he said he never fitted it and it looks like that.

i cant find any other timing marks other than a letter P. looked at a few u-tube vids, and read on here 

but iam lost...fitted it as seen but kicking it over just get a single back fire from righthand side,,,,

any help gladly needed please.. photo to follow if i can shrink it....

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This looks like a hybrid between a type III and a type IV. The Type III used a pot metal rotor with 2 steel slugs embedded at 180 degrees. The slugs triggered a sensor that fired the ignition and was set with the use of a timing light and the marks on the flywheel because when stationary (I.E. not running) the slugs didn't generate a signal.

The Type IV moved the electronics outside the compartment but used an optical trigger with the type of rotor you have. This would generate a signal as long as the ignition had power. This was set by placing the timing mark on the flywheel in the round window while a 12 volt test lamp was connected to the input to the coil. The ignition would be set by loosening the retaining screws on the ignition module and slowly moving it until the light was just at the trigger point (going from off to on and vice versa). Tighten the unit down and you should be set.

Since you have an optical sensor I believe this is the method you should use.  Once you can get it started you can fine tune it with a timing light if desired.

Good luck!

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I have to disagree with Vance. This type uses a hall-effect trigger. On a Dnepr the timing is set by putting the engine on it's timing mark. Then you tighten the rotor on so that there is no slack but still allowed to rotate. Turn the ignition on. Turn the rotor anti-clockwise til the light on the stator comes on and keep moving until the point where the light EXACTLY goes out. Tighten down the rotor without moving it. You should have the stator set so the bolts are in the middle of the slots. It's also probably worth putting washers between the stator and engine to reduce the heat transmitted to the ignition, these units are sensitive to overheating. If it doesn't work like this then try setting the timing at TDC or at the fully advanced position.

 

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this is the type as stated by SB, only just found out it should have a plastic

washer like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284572959623?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

mine was removed by PO ..why do not know. one now ordered.

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I'm glad you caught that, I was thinking it could be magnetic but on the Ural ignitions it was optical. The pot metal rotors would often throw a slug or get loose against the key and wobble and I thought maybe whoever made this one switched to prevent that.

The main thing is to get him going!

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I know of the Ducati ignition but I've never examined one.  After the type III (which looked very much like the ignition shown above) they switched to a unit which was dubbed type 4 and it had the guts in a puck which sat over a rotor that looked like the one above. It had a photodetector (or at least it looked like a photodetector) that was triggered by the slot and it had an indicator LED on the front. You set the timing statically using the LED. This was short lived as the unit tended to overheat and shut down so they made the puck separate and mounted it outside the case to keep it cool. It still had some heat issues in hot weather so they switched to the Ducati. But there are some other ignitions that popped up on the aftermarket that are unique to themselves.

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