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Looking for help

 

So i have purchased a sovek microprocessor controlled ignition for my dnepr Mt10-36 the same as this

 

https://www.ebay.co....OwAAOSwA3dYgTqP

 

and am having a few problems timing it up. The instructions I have found at http://www.cossack-motorcycles.com/2015/12/replacing-standard-ignition-system-cossack-bikes/ tell you to set the bike to TDC then rotate the backing plate counter clockwise until the LED red light goes out.

 

The first problem I had was that the slots were not long enough to achieve this so I had to reposition the rotor on the end of the camshaft. This entailed a slight mod to the locating 'rectangle' inside the rotor that locates on the end of the shaft. No biggie and I think the shaft the rotor attaches too has been 'modded' at some point as it appears to have been filed hence the need to reposition! I also spent some time ensuring that the rotor cleared the pickup by a suitable amount.

 

Anyway once that was done I tried again. I was very careful about finding TDC both using the mark on the flywheel and checking through the plug hole I aet the backing plate as per the instructions - rotate' the plate counter clockwise until the LED went out and locked it in this position'. However the bike would not start?

 

Are these instructions correct?

 

thanks

 

Gary

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That's a slightly different ignition type than the ones that used to come on Urals. The types 2 and 3 looked like that but used a rotor with steel slugs in it to trigger the ignition, whereas this one uses an optical sensor.

 

I have seen 2 types of instructions for the electronic ignitions (not including fuel injected bikes). One set says to do what you have done, and the other says to set the flywheel mark to the first mark to appear in the flywheel window which is the advanced setting. Since the above method didn't work, try the advance mark method and see if it starts. If it does start verify the ignition timing with a timing light at the slowest idle you can get.

 

Hope this helps!

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If you have a microprocessor controlled electronic ignition unit with the LED for static timing the flywheel must be set at the Top Dead Centre mark.

To static time it rotate the unit fully counter clockwise. Then turn on the ignition and rotate the unit clockwise until the LED lights up if not already illuminated. Continue rotating clockwise until the LED just shuts off. The microprocessor unit fires the plugs just as as the LED goes out. It is charging the ignition coil when the LED is illuminated. It's working exactly like opening and closing the points on the old points type ignition system. When the points are closed the coil is connected to the battery to charge it. With the electronic ignition unit the LED is illuminated. When the points open the magnetic field created by charging the coil collapses causing the creation of a high voltage charge when that magnetic field collapses across the high voltage windings in the ignition coil causing a spark across the spark plug gaps. This also happens when the LED on the electronic unit goes out.

 

The CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition) electronic ignition units (no microprocessor) use resistors and capacitors to retard the timing advance so static timing is set at the maximum advance timing mark on the flywheel. The slower the engine rpm the more the resistors and capacitors retard the timing advance. There is a timing mark on the magnet rotor that should be aligned with the mark on the unit close to the screw at the 5 O’clock position with + and - marks to ether side. If you can't see the mark rotate the rotor 180 degrees and remount it or using the kick start lever rotate the engine one revolution back to maximum advance mark on the flywheel. The mark on the rotor should now be visible. It's best to double check and set timing if required with a timing light and the engine running. With the engine running increase engine speed and note when the unit stops retarding timing which should be at the maximum advance mark on the flywheel. If it's too high or low rotate the unit using the + or - degree marks to set the timing according to how the fuel is mixed in your area. Here in the USA that's a couple of degrees shy of the maximum advance timing mark on the flywheel.

 

I have a type 4 microprocessor unit and set it up as I described the process above. The engine started and ran fine with no problems. I connected a timing light to double check and found the timing was perfect. When kick starting the engine slowly the unit was firing the plugs at Top Dead Centre, which is correct. As soon as the engine started idling the Top Dead Centre mark immediately disappeared as the unit advanced the timing. I then increased the engine speed with the throttle and noted the maximum advance mark on the flywheel come into view and the unit stopped advancing the timing even with a higher engine speed. It was a couple of degrees short of the maximum advance mark but that's OK. Due to the gasoline mix sold here in the USA maximum advance should be retarded a few degrees from the advance timing mark on the flywheel. I was doing that when I was still running the old points type ignition system.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys. The info i got of the cossack site said rotate the unit 'counter clockwise' at TDC until the light goes out. Scott you are saying rotate ' clockwise' to get the light to go out so i guess this os where i have been going wrong!! 😊. Will give this a go thanks!

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  • 1 month later...

Have to say I've had a problem with the latest type that uses the slotted cup. Using them on my rather hotted up K750. When they get hot the transistor can fail. I replaced the transistor on one with a Taiwanese better quality one but that eventually failed too ( long run sitting at 80kmh on the hottest day of the year (30C in the shade). Just fitted a Boyer Brandsen which should be reliable. The BB doesn't run as nice though.

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On 9/23/2020 at 12:12 PM, Serious Black said:

Have to say I've had a problem with the latest type that uses the slotted cup. Using them on my rather hotted up K750. When they get hot the transistor can fail. I replaced the transistor on one with a Taiwanese better quality one but that eventually failed too ( long run sitting at 80kmh on the hottest day of the year (30C in the shade). Just fitted a Boyer Brandsen which should be reliable. The BB doesn't run as nice though.

My Sovek ignition survived an Alabama August with no issues. I've been reading about Sovek ignition issues about transistor problems and hot temps. Apparently one of the inspection stations that was testing them was overheating them with faulty equipment. They tested good but the units that went across that station later failed in use in hot weather. I suspect that some of the components such as resistors and capacitors were damaged causing their values to change such as capacitors opening or shorting across the leads and resistors opening or their value changing to something  much lower in value. Any of those conditions would cause the transistor to fail. Most all of those components are surface mount types making them difficult test much less replace unless you are setup to do that kind of repair work. I used to do repair work on electronics but that was before surface mount components became common. Now I 'm too old even if I had the equipment to do that sort of work. You need steady hands and good eyes and now I have nether of those due to my age. 

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