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Oil


JonLilley
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The dreaded oil thread. Which bike do you have? This can affect your choice of oil. A good multigrade detergent oil was recommended for years with the 650s, however with the old style seals if you put synthetic oil in it tended to seep out. Castrol was recommended when I bought my Retro in 2004. I'm running synthetic Mobil 1 in it now, it tolerates hot conditions in summer much better than conventional oil. The engine runs a bit cooler but the biggest change I noticed was the reduction in valve noise when stuck in traffic on hot days, and the engine didn't get so hot smelling as it did with the regular oils. Mine is well broken in with over 40,000 km on it and I no longer see any fines in the oil when changing it. And there is absolutely no sludge under the valve covers or in the oil pan (it's been off to install a temperature probe).

 

There will probably be endless replies to your question, all contradictory. You will have to decide which is best for you. Keep in mind that when you hear that in the old days they just used straight motor oil that there was no other choice when it was still the USSR and they were running a much poorer grade of gasoline - old service manuals instructed you to decarbonize the engine every few thousand km. If they had been given access to better oils I'm sure they would have used them, an aircooled engine is hard on oil.

 

If you should buy a new bike, follow their instructions regarding oil to protect your warranty,

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Just 2 cents worth here. What does HD run? What does Porsche (older air cooled) run? What does Lycoming run, something like AeroShell 50? Oil technology has improved 10 fold in the last 20 years, as has component technology. Personally, I would go with any high quality synthetic 20-50, and feel confident that it's the best you can do for moving parts. Then there is also additives. Some really do work, and some probably not so much. With high quality multi-weight lubricant, they probably aren't needed. but every little bit helps.

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Howdy Kids and thanks for the info.

I guess what I'm asking is there a difference between motorcycle oil and just the conventional oil

H-D 360 Motorcycle Oil - SAE 20W50 - 1 Quart is about $7.50 and that's not the Synthetic oil

 

At Walmart you can get Castrol GTX 20W-50 Conventional Motor Oil, 5 QT for $19.00

It doesn't say motorcycle oil is there a difference

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Older machine designs do not require fancy lubricants.

That describes the Urals and Dneprs mostly represented on this discussion board.

I swear some of my Urals arrived from the factory with bear fat for grease!

 

They might benefit from fancy stuff, but keeping it simple is proven to work just fine.

Automotive oils have been used in Urals for decades. Probably the same for Dneprs.

I still use the manufacturer's recommended Castrol 20W50 in my bikes.

~RN

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Bear Fat? That was probably an export upgrade. From the smell you would think my Dnepr had whale oil in the suspension. Now there's an oil thread, we can start comparing the merits of baby beluga versus killer orcas for performance applications. Grey whale for touring?

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The oil is important for this engines, I noticed that usualy Castrol runs great but whatever brand you use it is important to be changed no later then 3000km (almost 2000 miles). I know an Ural engine runing on Castrol oil and it was in very good condition at 80.000km.

 

I have heard good things for 30W oils for the summer but never tested, I will make some tests this year.

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All,

Regular oil here for the Dnepr fleet. I do change Dnepr oil at no more than 500k. I would offer clean cheap oil beats gasoline and carbon debris laden expensive oil every time. Each time you change oil you are draining away the metal bits and debris. It just makes me feel better. The Urals get a spill and fill every 1000 miles.

 

Russ has wisdom here.... He forgot more about these bikes than I will ever know..

 

Goodnight Gents,

SB#3

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Hey,

 

From what I know,

Modern oils have additives to keep debris in floating in the oil, so that it gets handled by the filter. Thats why they make classic oils.

If you have a K750 or M72 they don't have any filters to take care of this, so debris should settle in the oilpan and in the oil slings, where it should stay until cleaned out.

 

I myself have been using castrol classic xl 20w-50 mineral oil the last couple of years, and this year I'm trying a different brand that is supposed to be a copy of the castrol classic xl 20w-50,

as the guy I bought it from says it smells the same and has the same specs.

 

I'm replacing the oil at least ones every year, sometimes two depending on how much I ride, I'm guessing I change it every 2000-3000km. (My odometer has been broken for quite some time).

 

Also, if you don't have a magnetic drain plug, I'd get one :) it does quite a good job of collecting metal debris.

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I disagree about the Dnepr vs Ural for oil...

It is after all a Winter Oil Thread...

The Dnepr, having a plain bearing bottom end should benefit from lighter Multi viscosity, even car oil..

While I treat the Ural like I would an old [Pre- '90's] Harley...If fresh, a good multi vis. even synthetic... but formulated for Air cooled engines.. [additive package] in deference to the roller bearing bottom end..

For me??.. Any cheapo 10-40 or so in the Dnepr... in the Ural... I run 20-50 MC oil... and when it gets a bit more Loose... 50w straight MC oil..

only costs another couple bucks to go first class...

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  • 1 month later...

I've been using 10w60 synthetic oil for the past 3 - 4 years. Works better than 20w50. quieter motor. K750s DO have an oil filter. There are two centrifugal oil catchers on each end of the crank that do the job. I puts magnets in the sump pan to assist them.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

my bike is a 2013 patrol. i only went 1000k before my first oil change. could not believe how dirty the oil was in all three. engine tranny and final drive.used mobil 1 vtwin 20w50 for engine and tranny. valvoline 75w140 every 500k in final drive until it started to look clean,tranny and final drive seemed to take a lot of changes to clean up. now i run mobil 1 15w50 from wally world about $6 a qt. only just over 10000k now runs good.dont forget to use loctite moly paste on your wheel splines. will save alot of wear there. happy cruisin !

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Man, you guys weren't kidding about the great oil debate. If I may interject I have a few questions concerning oil. For the Dnepr how often should the oil centrifuge be cleaned out?

 

As for the final drives, what's the best oil to use? For filling it it looks it has two separate chambers, one with the little plate held on with screws. Does that plate ever need to come off for any reason?

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