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Thanks 3 bike mike, I will.

Trouble is I’m in Greece, my beloved bikes are in British Columbia and the airlines are shutting down. Saw a cute fishing boat that I might fill with beer and potato chips then head for the Strait of Gibraltar...

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  • 5 months later...
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Well, back in Canada now and time to finish the project, assuming that a Dnepr can ever be finished.   I figured it would be a positive sign from the Great God of Dneprs in the sky if it would start after 14 months in the shed.  A few hiccups was all I got, and a worn out leg from the kickstart.

Ok, best do it the right way.   I replaced the dubious gas in the tank and removed the carburetor bowls.  Left carb was full of water...got rid of that and primed with fresh fuel.  Still just hiccups.  

Disconnected fuel hoses at carbs and found fuel not flowing as it should.   Blew out petcock filter and in-line fuel filters and fuel started flowing freely.  But still just hiccups from the engine and increasing right leg pain.

I disassembled both K65Ts and found one idle jet blocked and one main jet half blocked.  One idle mixture port had some junk in there too, not sure if it was blocked.  Thorough cleaning of all jets and reassembled.  I have a set of jet cleaning rods of various diameters l had never used before and think them a handy addition to the Dnepr tool kit.  

I also set both needles to the middle position, third of the five graduations.  I had them running a bit richer previously, can’t remember why but I think it was to be on the safe side until it was clear they  were running too rich.  

A few kicks and it came to life.  The usual idle and mixture adjustments and off for a 10 km test ride.  Came back with a smile, the engine is running flawlessly.   There is still a long to-do list but the Dnepr has a heartbeat,  I cannot complain.

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

When I purchased my Dnepr it had Chinese K65's installed and a set of original Pekar made K65's in a box with some other parts. The Chinese carburetors were junk even while looking almost new. I don't think they ever managed to get them working properly. I looked at the Pekar carb's and found clogged up jets and passages much like you describe the condition of yours. I had to run a tiny drill bit one step smaller than the hole in the idle jet on one of the carb's because that was the only way to get whatever was clogging that jet removed. I have a set of drills just for drilling out jets, which was what I used. I'm sure that's the reason whoever was attempting to get it going ordered and installed those junk Chinese carb's, which caused even more problems. I got two new Walboro 82-85-7 needles at a small engine shop to replace the original float needles. I 'stamped' a 35 degree V in the Pekar carb's where the new needles seat. They work perfectly! Someone had put ethanol contaminated gas in the gas tank which had completely eaten away those flat seals used on the original needles. Adjusting float height was a PITA with the new needles. I was so worried about the damaging the floats while bending those little brass tabs to get the float height adjusted just right. The floats in the Chinese carb's were slightly different and so could not be used to replace the Pekar floats. The outward appearance of Chinese carb's look just like Pekar Carb's but are almost completely different internally. If you've thought about going to Aliexpress and ordering Chinese K65 or K68 imitation carburetors, just don't do it. 

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Excellent... But My K-65's had an Oring that was attacked by Ethanol, Not Flat, and were not the best Idea for that application anyway.. I have not required any Modifications to the inlet of the carb, so apparently, the tube is concentric enough to allow the viton taper to seal.. Long as it functions...all is good..

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12 hours ago, racepres said:

Excellent... But My K-65's had an Oring that was attacked by Ethanol, Not Flat, and were not the best Idea for that application anyway.. I have not required any Modifications to the inlet of the carb, so apparently, the tube is concentric enough to allow the viton taper to seal.. Long as it functions...all is good..

Here's a link to new needles with the flat washer shown on the end of a needle. It's not an "O"-ring. From the looks of it there's no way it would survive the ethanol contaminated gasoline the sold out to the farm lobby Politicians have forced on us here in the USA.

http://dnepr-kiev.com/spare-parts/fuel-feed-system/Fuel-needle-assembly-for-K63-K65-carburettor-with-seal-DNEPR-URAL-set-10-piece-1458?filter=1

Even the no-ethanol gasoline sold for small engines at some service stations end up with with small amounts of ethanol in the gasoline. It's up to the truck driver to mix the ethanol in the gasoline just before delivery and if the tank on the truck has left over ethanol/gasoline in it and the driver puts just gasoline in that tank he ends up delivering gasoline with ethanol in it and putting it in the no-ethanol service station's tank. I usually test the gasoline before I put it in anything. All you do is put food colouring dye in a clean and dry clear glass container and add gasoline to it. If it's pure gasoline the dye will not mix with the gasoline and just sits in the bottom of the container. If it has any ethanol in the gasoline the gasoline will immediately change colour to whatever colour food dye you put in the container. Back when you could not buy gasoline without ethanol I built and sold processing machines that would take the ethanol out of the gasoline and sold them to lawn care business's and small engine shops that started selling that no-ethanol gasoline to customers. 

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Interesting.  I purchased the K65ts only because I felt they looked the part compared to the Mikunis on export models.  The bike runs well with them with very good throttle response but I’m still working through the vagaries of starting which can range from one kick to many, temperature dependent.

Mine are Pekars and I understand from this thread that they are better than Chinese reproductions.  This has been my experience with all Chinese reproductions of Dnepr parts and I no longer purchase them.  
 

Im still confused about references to o rings.  My Pekars (2017 vintage) have tapered needles with a neoprene (viton?) tip that sits into a hard seat.  I could see no wear in them in the form of circular rings from seat contact over time.  Or ethanol, which I expect they have been exposed to.

One element of k65ts I find wanting is the general lack of close tolerances in thread cutting.   Sometimes  I wonder if the throttle plate adjustment mechanism and/or mixture screw and enrichment assembly draw external air through sloppy threads under vacuum.  Perhaps there is a fuel tolerant grease that can be applied like found in the petcock.

Regards.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Northernduck said:

By Northernduck

"Interesting.  I purchased the K65ts only because I felt they looked the part compared to the Mikunis on export models.  The bike runs well with them with very good throttle response but I’m still working through the vagaries of starting which can range from one kick to many, temperature dependent.

Mine are Pekars and I understand from this thread that they are better than Chinese reproductions.  This has been my experience with all Chinese reproductions of Dnepr parts and I no longer purchase them.  
 

Im still confused about references to o rings.  My Pekars (2017 vintage) have tapered needles with a neoprene (viton?) tip that sits into a hard seat.  I could see no wear in them in the form of circular rings from seat contact over time.  Or ethanol, which I expect they have been exposed to.

One element of k65ts I find wanting is the general lack of close tolerances in thread cutting.   Sometimes  I wonder if the throttle plate adjustment mechanism and/or mixture screw and enrichment assembly draw external air through sloppy threads under vacuum.  Perhaps there is a fuel tolerant grease that can be applied like found in the petcock.

Regards."

LOL

Crude is the very best description of My K-65's.. one look at the folded steel "Slide" is all one needs..

"Fine Tuning" is Never gonna be a possibility, therfore, keep it simple... Provide a Full Float, and a Fairly Rich Mixture... and go happily on.

Very Interested in your "Stock" needles..Sure would love the History on them..

But the Walboro Needles work just fine...

Most of the "adjustments" on my Dnepr are Rough, and Tumble... or maybe even "Close".

If it Has Fuel in the Bowls tho... It is Always a one kick Starter..

Someday I may even get the Charging System working... PITA running total Loss on that little Battery!!!!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone have any experience with electronic regulators for the G424 alternator? I too am running total loss...damn PP330 isn’t working again.  I had it working fine last year but endless adjustment of spring tension and now no charging whatsoever.   I might get another PP330 to keep it original, perhaps I just got a bad one previously.  I’m dropping 0.1V every 20km, starting from 12.2V when running with headlight off, 

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On 10/24/2020 at 7:39 PM, Northernduck said:

Anyone have any experience with electronic regulators for the G424 alternator? I too am running total loss...damn PP330 isn’t working again.  I had it working fine last year but endless adjustment of spring tension and now no charging whatsoever.   I might get another PP330 to keep it original, perhaps I just got a bad one previously.  I’m dropping 0.1V every 20km, starting from 12.2V when running with headlight off, 

The mechanical voltage regulators use contacts exactly like you would find used for ignition points. When (not if) they get pitted they will fail to pass current in exactly the same way bad or pitted ignition points will cause ignition failure, IE no spark across the spark plug gaps. Once that happens no amount of spring tension adjusting is going to fix the problem. What you need to do is clean the contact points so they can once again pass current without resistance. Generally you can use fine grit sand paper to clean them. Just cut and fold it so the sand paper will pass across both contact surfaces at the same time as you pull it back and fourth across the contact points. After the points are clean be sure and use some brake cleaning spray to wash away any grit and small metal particles resulting from the cleaning/sanding process. Once completed the regulator should start working once again if the magnetic coils that open and close the contact points are not burned or shorted out.

I have an electronic voltage regulator on my Dnepr MT-11. The alternator light never goes completely out. When not using the head, tail, and clearance lights it will almost go out above idle. At night when running head, tail, and clearance lights the alternator light never goes out. The alternator is functioning perfectly with an output of 13.9 volts with all the lights lit. The alternator warning light will not go dim until voltage is above 14.2 volts, which never happens when all the lights are on. During the day the alternator  and regulator is producing 14.8 volts above idle and the alternator light is very dim but not off. I made sure all the connections were good at the alternator and regulator and finally came to the conclusion the alternator warning light circuit was functioning at too high a voltage setting. It should be turning on below 12.2 volts and completely off above that 12.2 volts. Needless to say the regulator is completely sealed up so changing a resistor to get the voltage set properly is not possible. I just installed a voltage gauge right next to an oil pressure gauge and rely on those instead of the installed idiot lights. I've been tempted to instal a mechanical voltage regulator which can be adjusted for proper operation of the alternator warning light. I'd be willing to bet a new electronic voltage regulator would have the exact same problem as the one I have now so money spent for zero improvement.

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Great advice regarding the need to maintain contacts on the mechanical regulators.   I’ve gotten lazy,  I’ll clean and see if this solves the problem, in fact it made the difference years ago and I preached the importance of it and of course immediately forgot as I tend to do. Cheers.

 Racepres, is the cost of a new bridge comparable to the cost of a new alternator?  

Regards.  ND.

 

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9 hours ago, Northernduck said:

Great advice regarding the need to maintain contacts on the mechanical regulators.   I’ve gotten lazy,  I’ll clean and see if this solves the problem, in fact it made the difference years ago and I preached the importance of it and of course immediately forgot as I tend to do. Cheers.

 Racepres, is the cost of a new bridge comparable to the cost of a new alternator?  

Regards.  ND.

LOL

Not a Chance...Around here anyway.. one day I will bite the bullet and get the Bridge!!

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With the mechanical, It is also nice to be able to adjust activation.

The solid state units are a crap shoot now.  15-20 years ago you could buy nice NOS units, throw them on and go.  Now, not so much.  A friend of mine had trouble with his, so he bought two (he had learned from the past).  Both were bad.  He purchased another 4 units; one was working properly.  Who knows how long it will last.

If your bike is wired for the mechanical, I would stay with that model unit.  Another plus would be if you have to replace it - when you find a replacement, it will most likely be NOS Soviet made.

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