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Do you place the seal between the lever and the casing? How do you apply pressure to the seal - by placing the seal then tightening the lever against it?

 

Yes, this is the best way and it will seal just fine, especialy when the dust will "apply" to the felt seal after you ride the bike a for a while.

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I'm still not sure if the reverse lever shaft is leaking, but I noticed today that the neutral switch is leaking a drop here and there so this may be the problem. The body of the switch is plastic, so it's not the strongest construction that can be torqued up tight, I might try some teflon or other wrapping on the threads.

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Today I rode maybe 50 km, still checking for faults and slowly taking care of the 'to do' list. I put in some temporary flexible hose between the carbs and the airbox and then between the crankcase breather and the airbox. I think it looks poor but it allowed the installation of the choke mechanism so I could further investigate why the engine starts so easily when cold but is difficult to start when hot.

 

I don't think it made much difference, the issue is still there and it's difficult to start the engine if it has been run for awhile, using the choke on a hot engine had no effect. I've read that the heads can transfer much heat to the k65t carbs and this can vaporizes the fuel in the bowls leading to starting issues. I don't understand this either, I would expect that any loss of fuel in the bowls would be immediately replaced by new fuel via the float needles. Moreover, I have good thick gaskets between the carbs and heads and I don't feel the carbs getting hot, maybe warm at the most.

 

So I'll have to go back to basics, valve and ignition timing to make sure all is ok, and narrow down the potential faults leading to hard starting. When the engine is cold, tickling the carbs and opening the enricheners leads to starting in a couple of kicks.

 

The engine and gearbox seem to be working very well so far, good power and flawless shifting. The charging system is working, but I suspect that it's continuously charging the battery instead of kicking out when the voltage is sufficient and I'll try to adjust the regulator coil springs to find the correct tension. Picture below of the coils and springs that control charging. They are not meant to be adjusted, apparently set at the factory but don't believe it.

 

Also a picture of the hoses, joining carbs and airbox. I used an old hose from a vacuum cleaner, not my best moment but I'll find something better when I can.

post-48681-0-44570400-1554005043_thumb.jpg

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On my 94 I had a coil that would fail when it got hot. Not completely, but it would get progressively weaker. Is is possible you also have a bad coil? It acted more like carbs on mine and I kept cleaning them, and as the coil would cool off this would appear to improve things. Definitely a red herring....

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I've read that the heads can transfer much heat to the k65t carbs and this can vaporizes the fuel in the bowls leading to starting issues.

 

Yes, it is true. My Dnepr has the same problem when is hot, if is stoped for 10-15 minutes doesn't start whitout flooding the carburetors.

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Hi Vance, I don't believe it's the coil for a number of reasons. Going back literally a couple of years now I had real issues with the original coil which is mounted above the bowl at the front of the engine, where it is under cover and cannot dissipate heat. I replaced this coil with a new one that is oil cooled, mounted under the tank in the air stream and I note that it doesn't get hot, only warm.

 

I've checked the spark when the engine is cold, and again when the engine is hot and it is difficult to start. In both cases the spark is there as it should be, and I cannot see any difference in the intensity of the spark after the engine is hot. For this reason I suspect it's fuel related, or more possibly heat related and the impact of heat on the carbs. Luca has confirmed a similar experience which is comforting in a sense, but I'd like to understand more and see if there is some way around this.

 

I purchased the oil-filled coil from Ural Zentrale. What I omitted in the explanation above was that I also purchased a brand new coil in Canada a year ago that is a replacement Harley coil, 4 ohm primary resistance and mounts outside the engine similar to the oil filled coil that I am currently running. I still had intermittent spark issues with this new Harley coil, but what I didn't recognize is that the underlying cause was actually the points which looked good, but were actually seriously pitted and I blamed the whole problem on the condenser as the mixing bowl of doom was a light show with sparks flying everywhere. My best guess at the truth is that the coil and condenser were ok, but I replaced both not knowing the points were in a poor state. So I probably have a spare coil....

 

Picture attached of the oil filled coil.

post-48681-0-81381700-1554091590_thumb.jpg

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I've read that the heads can transfer much heat to the k65t carbs and this can vaporizes the fuel in the bowls leading to starting issues.

 

Yes, it is true. My Dnepr has the same problem when is hot, if is stoped for 10-15 minutes doesn't start whitout flooding the carburetors.

 

Thanks Luca. Yes, if I tickle the carburetors a lot it will eventually start too after lots of kicking. I'd love to understand what the underlying issue is and if there is a fix for this. Thanks again - appreciated.

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Today I finished fabricating the mounting stalks and brackets for the front turn signals. I used nuts and bolts from the local hardware store, and I drilled holes through the bolts to pass the electrical wire directly into the lights. Pleased with the results, a bit of paint and I think they will blend in. I couldn't find the original hardware anywhere on the internet.

 

Once mounted I put in new bulbs in all the signal lights and tested to see if the turn signals were working. Well, they lit up but not in the way the are supposed to. All for lights were flashing instead of left and right. I dismantled the switch and traced the circuits with an ohmmeter. Sure enough, I misunderstood how the switch actually works when I made the wiring diagram and harness, but the fix is easy and hopefully with working lights next week the motorcycle will be full legal. Where is the fun in that?

 

Pics below of the light brackets and signal turn switch.

post-48681-0-62920600-1554095184_thumb.jpg

post-48681-0-41840800-1554095197_thumb.jpg

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4 ohm primary resistance and mounts outside the engine similar to the oil filled coil that I am currently running

 

A 4 ohm coil is to powerfool for points and condenser, you should have a coil with minimum 8 ohm. Such a coil with 8 ohm (double coil) you can find on Honda GL1000 from 1978, on that year GL1000 had classic ignition with points and condenser.

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Thanks Luca. Yes, if I tickle the carburetors a lot it will eventually start too after lots of kicking. I'd love to understand what the underlying issue is and if there is a fix for this. Thanks again - appreciated.

 

There is no fix, just flood the carbs and kickstart, works every time for me.

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Another 50 km, I rode to work and back today with the ‘to do’ list growing but manageable. Some oil leaks, but the engine is running well and I had no problems whatsoever. I stopped for fuel and had the pleasure of buying the lowest octane available. Starting when the engine is hot is more difficult but it seems to be getting better. I’m cautiously optimistic. Brakes a total disaster, the drums are so bad the motorcycle oscillates when the brakes are applied and I need to get them machines. But I have a stupid grin on my face for two days now....

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