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Walbro needles and other stuff


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Hey folks, I ordered the walbro needles p/n 82-85-7 as I was recommended to do. I had both carbs off to clean them up and after comparing the needles it seems the walbros are a little longer than what was in there to begin with. I don't know if they are replacements (the ones currently installed) but they don't appear to have to pressed on washer on the tail end, they are one piece. I did try to install one of the new needles on the first carb I worked on but I couldn't bend the tab enough to level the float and I felt like I was going to break it if I kept trying. Any thoughts on that would be greatly appreciated.

 

Also, I've seen some posts and info on the deep oil sump and different oil filter setups for MT11/16's, the information is a little overwhelming so is there one setup in particular that somebody could recommend? I do have a call in to Ken Ulrich about his deep sump/oil filter upgrade.

 

Thanks, Gregg

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The old needles are junk with the o ring. They melt in our ethanol gas. The Kohler 127501-s or the Walbro pn.82-85-7 are the best bet. Not sure why it is so long to where you might break it. Hopefully its the right ones.

 

As far as the deep sump, I think they are a waste of money. If worried about heat, an oil cooler would be cool. Don't read into too many gimmicks. Keep the machines simple and stupid. Lol. Hope she's coming along ok

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Thanks for the replies,

 

The needles currently installed are not the style with the o-rings and I suspect one of the previous owners may have already beaten me to replacing them. Nonetheless I'll post pics of them along with the ones I ordered.

 

 

Guzzidude,

 

It's coming along, the last bits I was waiting for in the mail showed up the other day (rear main seal, gearbox output shaft seal, valve cover gaskets) so this week I'll pull the gearbox and see what's going on. Hopefully it's just the output shaft seal but if not I'm prepared to go balls deep. After that a valve adjustment and by the weekend I want to be cutting out all of bubba's wiring and installing my new wiring harness. I also have a nurnberg style gun mount coming for it which will be way cool.

 

Gregg

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Great progress. Hope it's just a seal back there. Look forward to pics. Been setting mine up for paint. Going to shoot the primer tomorrow. Took me all day to hang plactic and most of the parts. I ran out ta room quick. Lol

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Re. The gearbox output shaft seal.

 

There are actually 2 seals to stop oil leaking onto the doughnut,

 

First is an outer normal oil seal that fits in the gearbox case and lip seals on the drive yoke,

 

Second is an 'o' ring that slides down the splined output shaft and sits against the output bearing. When the yoke is fitted, this o ring compresses and seals against oil leaking down the splines. If it is not available, smear a little silicon gasket goo on the splines before fitting the yoke.

 

Check for this o ring when dismantling, often it is missing and is the cause of annoying oil leaks in this area

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Thanks Dneprlover, the leak is coming from between the gearbox and engine, so that would be the input shaft seal, right? (typo on my part) There is no leak outside of the gearbox where the shaft runs to the final drive.

 

Below are pics of the needles. the light silver colored one on the left is what was in it, and the dull gray one on the right is the walbro 82-85-7. It is a little longer and using it would require some serious bending of the float tab. is that normal?

 

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My apologies, that's what happens when I speed read.

 

The input shaft seals in the same way. There is a steel bush pushed tightly onto the shaft and an 'o' ring sits behind this to seal the splines. The normal seal fits in the gearbox case and lips onto this bush.

 

Check where the oil is leaking from before changing the oil seal, it might be round the splines and therefore the o ring is at fault, possibly needing a gearbox strip to remedy. Not that long ago someone reported a drip fron the crankcase/gearcase area and when separated it proved to be the o ring seal on the kickstart spring tensioner, so check that as well..

 

It does appear as if your carb needles have already been changed as they are not the normal crap that one finds. I am told that the very latest Carbs K65/68 are being supplied new with an updated needle, possibly this is what you've got. If so, it will be the first viewing on here.

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