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Fork'n around with Dnepr forks


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Pulled my forks aparty to rebuild them and see why one is stiff and the other is like a pogo stick. BOING BOING.

First one is full of what looks like mud and was almost siezed up, the other had what looked and smelled like used motor oil. Stunk like H***!

Chrome is flaking so I'm removing it and they'll become black.

What a mess. :glare:

Guess I spin the lower legs in the lathe to remove the chrome and blast the rest off from the lower axle area in the blast cabnet.

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I'm used to Jap and Italian forks so when I opened these up I expected some valving. These are stupid simple fork tubes. A spring, a piece of pipe and a little metal cup/piston. WOW! No rebound springs, no piston seals or valving!

Had alot of oil stains on one near the axle. Guess what? Pin holes in the weld! :ohmy: You can see them in the first pic. I thought about tig welding it but there is probably so much trash in the weld i'm just gonn'a smear some JB into the pin hole and let it ride! :laugh:

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Thanks for the link! I thought I saw that thread awhile back but yep, they are a mess inside. To all those out there, rebuild your forks! From the looks of it no one has done any service on them and they need it!

I noticed a small boss on the lower fork legs near the axle. Was it for a drain plug at one time but the factory stopped drilling them for a drain?? That would make servicing them alot easier.

Lastly,should I use the top nut on the spring rod as a jam nut against the fork cap, cinched tight agaist the fork cap and then the cap with spring rod screwd into the top of the fork tube ? Instructions are a little vauge about that but that's how I understand it. :blush2:

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Glad to see your tackling your forks. It is a gratifying job once it's done.

 

That boss is probably the drain plug. I think that some of the various fork parts didn't come drilled. If you can drill and rap it I would recommend it.

 

As for the top nut, make sure you keep a gap between the top lock nut and the spring assembly. That way you can tighten the large top but into the steering tree without turning the internal springs (Post 10 in that link has a pic).

 

That should work..

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Got them all back together. I put a drop of paint on that top nut to maintain that gap, they kept wanting to move around. I had to machine a new set of washers that sit on/compress the fork seals. I was missing one! While I was at it I machined new washers for the top fork caps.

I noticed the piston on the end of the spring rod for one fork was jamed tight and the other was very loose. I adjusted the lower jam nuts for the pistons so the both have the same gap. I couldn't find a spec concerning the gaps for them. If there is too much gap and too fast rebound and compression I'll just use 15wt. :wink:

Sand blasted, sanded, acid etched and painted black now. Baking in the Georgia sun now. :smile:

Thanks all!

:smileywaving:

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  • 5 months later...

Hey folks, I have a 2000 Ural Bavarian and I can't get the shocks off the bike at all! Is there some secret bolt I must remove? The only maintenance video I have seen (

) shows the guy sliding the shocks right out of the towers with very little effort, just coaxing them out from below with a gentle tug after the top retaining bolt has been unfastened.

Mine do NOT pull out at ALL, as if there is a hard stop built into the mechanism, to prevent the shock falling out. What bolt am I missing?? or do I need to twist the things out?

Thanks for any tips or help.

RIck Hudson in Seattle

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The fork legs are held in the top what I think you call triple clamp by a taper. Loosen the clamping bolts in the bottom triple clamp. Undo the top nut about two turns and give it a good whack with a lead hammer and it should loosen. Unscrew the top nut and lift it up to expose the nut that holds the damper rod into the top nut. Unscrew this and the top nut comes free. The rest is straight forward.

 

Once the fork is in bits clean the paint out of the taper in the top clamp!

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Thanks for the link! I thought I saw that thread awhile back but yep, they are a mess inside. To all those out there, rebuild your forks! From the looks of it no one has done any service on them and they need it!

I noticed a small boss on the lower fork legs near the axle. Was it for a drain plug at one time but the factory stopped drilling them for a drain?? That would make servicing them alot easier.

Lastly,should I use the top nut on the spring rod as a jam nut against the fork cap, cinched tight agaist the fork cap and then the cap with spring rod screwd into the top of the fork tube ? Instructions are a little vauge about that but that's how I understand it. :blush2:

 

What was the link? Thanks

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