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A Dnepr Load of Problems


PazyrykTheGreat
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I'm about ready to give up on this damn thing. I have a spare head gasket ring that's worn but appears to work. I sprayed the gap between the head and cylinder with soap and I'm not seeing any compression leaks. The valves leaked so I lapped them and tested to make sure they were tight and sealing and reinstalled the heads. I cut out new carburetor gaskets from sheet rubber because the gasket glue I had used previously leaked. Before I had lapped the valves it would start and run with the chokes up but would die when they were closed. But now it won't start at all! You would think with better valve seals it would run better.

 

I don't understand why it won't start now. I've checked everything. It has spark, fuses are good, big red switch is on, it's been timed, heads are torqued, tappets are gauged,I can't find any compression leaks, fuel flow to the carburetors are good. Earlier this week I took both carbs apart, cleaned everything and checked the main and pilot jets. It should work. I've fiddled with the fuel flow adjustment screws in and out but nothing. This is immensely frustrating and disappointing.

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For head to jug surfaces that are not Flat... [even some without gasket that are dead flat] I have always sprayed the gasket itself...both sides, with aluminized Grill Paint.. [Ace comes to mind, but I can check] it must be aluminized, not the cheap crap.. spray both sides liberally, assemble when tacky.. cured many head gasket problems for me... But, for surfaces that are hopelessly mismatched... won't help..

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So I think I might have figured out what the problem was. The rubber gaskets I had cut for the carburetors didn't have a wide enough opening and was obstructing the fuel/airflow. So now it seems to want to start and idle and test road it around the neighborhood. I think I will still need to work on these Mikuni style carburetors more eventually as it seems to want to idle best with the adjustment screws in almost all the way and idling a bit faster that I think it should be.

 

I apologize for the emotions in the previous post. This has been a long and frustrating (and expensive) road trying to get this motorcycle to work. Especially since I've been working on it constantly for the past 2 months desperately trying to get it running so I can take it to a week long, post-apocalyptic themed outdoor event in a few days. I had to sacrifice lot of time to desperately try to get it running instead of working on other projects (I'm a self employed costume maker) I could be working on to get ready for the event. Vehicles are a big part of the post-apocalyptic/Wastelander subculture and it's my big aspiration to use this motorcycle for it.

 

So hopefully if it doesn't crap out again and I can trailer it out there I'll post a bunch of pictures. Thank you everyone for all your support and advice. I wouldn't be where I am with this motorcycle without this community.

 

Thanks, Pat.

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This happens with old machinery of any kind. And it's normal to get upset after investing so much time, effort, and money. The main thing is that you are making progress and learning the machine as you go. This will make you ready to handle any breakdowns in the future or perhaps help another owner out.

 

Good on you for hanging in there and making progress.

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  • 3 months later...

Okay, so the engine starts and runs fine. I've been able to run it around the neighborhood and on the street and get it up to 80kph/50mph. There is still this persistent problem since I've had the thing is that the engine wants to stall when it's in first gear and at a stop. When the clutch lever is squeezed it'll made a tapping/knocking sound from what seems like the clutch plates and the rpms slow down and it feels like something is dragging the engine down. It has no problem take off from a start or idle in neutral gear, it's just when in gear at a stop. The only way I've managed to counter this is to set the idle really high and to throttle the engine when stopped. It doesn't help that finding neutral with the foot pedals on this older model gearbox is same near impossible.

 

Think it's a problem with the clutch plates?

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I think I may have figured out the issue, the gearbox was loose and would rock when the clutch lever was squeezed. I tightened up the bolts, it still drags the RPMs down but now at least it doesn't want to stall as much.

 

Now I have to deal with this problem- wires to the ignition module somehow came loose and shorted out. I could try to replace the wires, could someone provide an image of or explain where the new wires would solder to on the circuit board? I'm having trouble finding an image of it. I swear as soon as I fix one thing something else breaks.

 

20190919 173634

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IF I recall properly one of the wires goes to the hot wire side of the coil, the other goes to the negative terminal of the coil. Sadly they were not consistent with the colors, but if you look closely at the circuit board where the wires connect there may be a + sign for the hot wire.

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Vance:

Looking back at the original picture of the electronics unit, there is only one oblong solder pad there.

And it looks like nothing was ever soldered to it!

I can't help beyond that.

RussN

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Well it worked, briefly. It would start and idle and I was able to move it all of about 50 feet before it died again. The circuit tester showed that the input wire to the ignition module is now not getting any power but everything else is working and no blown fuses. So now I gotta drain and remove the gas tank to check the wiring.

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