Duckyde Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 The correct order from the crank outward is crank, gasket with keyway cutout, centrifuge assembly, smaller paper gasket, rubber seal, washer/shim, then finally bolt with lock washer. That coil appears to be the Harley coil or at least a generic brand Harley style coil. There is a member, located in Florida I think, that offers a electronic ignition setup at a reasonable price. A good product that can be had fairly quickly. If u search the forum for ignition problem posts you should be able to find them quickly as I cannot remember their name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 I know it's a 4 ohm coil, I just bought it new. Here is a diagram of the ignition. http://www.dneprshop...nic_ign_bc3.pdf I am confused about the wiring because on the point plate it only has one wire going to the coil. This electric ignition has two wires that connect to the russian style coil. Will this work with the harley style coil that only has one wire connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racepres Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Remember how the thing Works!!!!Points put a ground onto one side of the coil when the points are closed, removing the ground when open...Only one lead required.The opposite side of the coil is "Hot" [+12v] with the key [kill switch] On.That's it.With electronic ignition the trigger remains on the trigger [points] side of the coil... The Ignition requires power to function. So...Attach the power lead to the "power" side of the Coil...Presto!!!!Do Not...Miss wire!!!! Do Not put the Trigger side of the ignition onto the Power side of the Coil.....Generally wrecks "em.  Edit; By the diagram I would say K-3 is the Trigger, since + is Power..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Alright then I'll go ahead and order it. Now that I got the centrifuge back in (thanks for explaining how it goes back together) now for the next thing: breaks. The rear one stops some and the front one doesn't break at all. Not sure about the side car break. I've tightened up the cables a lot but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Ulrich Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 As I have grown older, I have seen the decline of practical common knowledge, taught by schools, in the manual arts as they were called, before they seems to have faded away, with the push in the academic world to teach everyone to get a " GOOD JOB", jobs have gone over seas, and folks are left scratching there heads. Mechanics have gone from grease monkeys, to now they are refered as tech's All well and good, but the people who lost out on that manual art classes, are now bereft of the basic knowledge of plain old "how to". There is hope for those who wish to overcome the lack of info regarding things we do here on Russian Iron. Your public library will have many currant and older basic electricity, and ignition, engine building, and on and on, endlessly, far better time spent, than on the sports channell, and other drivial ( Green Bay Packers excepted) a few hours a week quietly studying on the various subjjects will soon be looked at as very rewarding. As a personal note, I was afflicted with very poor hearing as a child. I was always seated in the back of the room, cause my last name started with a "U". Sports were in short supply for hearing poor kids. So I read every thing I could get my hands on, A old biddy librarian, was always on my case for trying to check out books that were too old for me. To make a long story short, I would estimate 80% of my knowledge about what we do here is from books. I hope that no one is offended in my bringing this up. If they are, I offer my sincere apologies. We need all types of skills in this country...just my point of view.....Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted March 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 That's a RTFM, comment I'll take it? I have been reading the manual I've just been having a hard time understanding it, especially adjusting the arms and cams on the front brake. After a lot of fiddling I think I've managed to get it to lock the front wheel but only by screwing the cable adjuster as far out as it'll go, which makes me a bit nervous. Anyways I got the new electric ignition and installed it according to the instructions but the motorcycle still won't start. I turn the flywheel to the P mark, set the gap between the rotor and the sensor and it won't even sputter. I've rotated the module all different ways, and tried setting the gap at .35, .32 ,.3, and .2 mm as well as pushing it as close and as far possible and there's no difference. I know it's working because the plugs are getting spark. I've also put my test lamp on the coil trigger and I've noticed that wherever the flywheel or the module is set, the light never turns off. It'll only strobe when the flywheel is turn quickly. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 On further fiddling I found that the outboard cylinder is leaking compression. There's suction from the spark plug hole but not from the carb intake and there is air puffing from the rubber seals where the pushrod channels join the engine. Is this because the rockers are misadjusted or the cylinder head not fitted right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I poured soapy water on the engine and found that it was making bubbles from the dipstick. I assume that the compression leak is coming from the piston rings and going into the engine case. I took off both cylinders and aligned the rings so the gaps are farther apart but it's still leaking pressure into the engine case. The pistons are new and the rings are custom made (I had them fabricated because Yuri f**ked up the order and sent me pistons with no rings). They are of very good quality and fit very well and it's never done this before. So what would be causing the leakage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilge Keel Dave Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Even the best rings leak, that's why there is a rotary crankcase breather. The rings will rotate randomly anyway, On occasion they will line up, but they don't stay that way. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 I haven't been working on the bike much in the past couple months since I've been just so frustrated with all the work and money I've put into it and it just refuses to run. That and I live in Phoenix and it's hot as hell. Anyways, I was tinkering with it a little bit and I noticed that on the outboard cylinder that the exhaust port is actually pulling more suction that the carp intake and all the compression is blowing into the crank case. I adjusted the valves according to the instructions but it almost seems like the valves are backwards. Seems like there's something more out of place than just the rocker/pushrod bolts being misadjusted. Could there be something wrong with the camshaft that could be causing the valves to open/close wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilge Keel Dave Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 The camshaft could be out of time with the crankshaft. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Okay so according to the manual the drive and cam shaft gears have marks that tell if they are aligned. So I took a look and the marks seem like they're pretty lined up.  So does this mean this mean that the cam shaft IS aligned? Or is there something else that is causing the valves to be so off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiterabbit Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 That looks aligned to me. The crankcase will have some pressure buildup, not much though. The crankcase breather system will vent the pressure via the timed breather and that metal tube to the air filter/intake. You will get a little suck during the timing/ valve overlap. I really don't know the lift and duration numbers on Dnepr cams but I'd bet there's a pretty good overlap. As long as you are getting good compression numbers I wouldn't worry 'bout it. Legal warning*I'm not a Dnepr expert! (I just play one on TV) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PazyrykTheGreat Posted July 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 I know that these are not precise machines and that should be some valve overlap, but the problem is that there is too much overlap and that it's keeping it from running. I don't really know how to diagnose or fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiterabbit Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Mabe a burned or sticking exhaust valve in that head? (wild guess)That would cause it to suck in from the exhaust side some but you should be able to detect that. When that piston comes up on compression (intake valve just closed and now compressing the charge) you would hear a slight hiss from the exhaust port from the leaking valve. The intake valve will make a slight hiss too under compression if it's leaking too. I have to put a mechanics stethoscope in there to hear it but a piece of tubing to your ear will work. (Bad hearing, too much machine gun time with Uncle Sam) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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