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It just wouldn't be summer...


csbdr
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...if I didn't come back home on a flatbed at least once. I've been running great until 1 1/2 weeks ago when it rained cat and dogs. Some of the dogs got in both cylinders and they had water in them. Drained that out, dried the plugs, and really had a hard time starting. Eventually got one jug to fire (right) and took it out on the road. Gave some throttle and bumped the other jug into action. Now, I ran it quite a bit after that, but it wasn't quite right. It was a bit more vibratory than usual, and clattering more. I wrote that off to a ham-fisted adjustment of the valve clearances and balancing in the dark, getting ready for a camping trip.

 

Back from the trip and I commuted to work. Kicked over fine, ran well. It poured rain again while I was in and at the end of the day the bike was dead as a doornail. I had done once over when I parked it, and I KNOW there were no lights on, etc. Got a jump from a coworker and immediately fried the starter relay. Set it on fire. Down to NAPA for a new one and we're in business. Bike turns over on the starter and won't start. Pulled the plugs...dry and not fouled . Checked the valves and the intake on the right was pretty tight. Reset that. Have spark. Pretty weak on left side but there. Fresh gas. Enricheners won't stay out. I pull them and they want to pop back in. Did that the first go round as well. I'm not sure where to go next. Took the AAA RV ride home. Any ideas? Chris

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Hi Chris,

Did you drain your carb bowls ?

I thought of that but couldn't find the right size hex wrench in the parking lot :party: . I'm going to do this when I work on it this weekend. You think water in the bowls would cause this lack of firing up? or at least contribute? Chris

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...if I didn't come back home on a flatbed at least once. I've been running great until 1 1/2 weeks ago when it rained cat and dogs. Some of the dogs got in both cylinders and they had water in them. Drained that out, dried the plugs, and really had a hard time starting. Eventually got one jug to fire (right) and took it out on the road. Gave some throttle and bumped the other jug into action. Now, I ran it quite a bit after that, but it wasn't quite right. It was a bit more vibratory than usual, and clattering more. I wrote that off to a ham-fisted adjustment of the valve clearances and balancing in the dark, getting ready for a camping trip.

 

Back from the trip and I commuted to work. Kicked over fine, ran well. It poured rain again while I was in and at the end of the day the bike was dead as a doornail. I had done once over when I parked it, and I KNOW there were no lights on, etc. Got a jump from a coworker and immediately fried the starter relay. Set it on fire. Down to NAPA for a new one and we're in business. Bike turns over on the starter and won't start. Pulled the plugs...dry and not fouled . Checked the valves and the intake on the right was pretty tight. Reset that. Have spark. Pretty weak on left side but there. Fresh gas. Enricheners won't stay out. I pull them and they want to pop back in. Did that the first go round as well. I'm not sure where to go next. Took the AAA RV ride home. Any ideas? Chris

Just my opinion, but I don't think it is carb problems at all. Lots of contact points on a Ural to challenge you. You said you changed the relay, but if the old one fried, then there was a problem there to begin with. Hope you cleaned the relay connection with some cleaner prior to insertion for replacement of the old one. Some CRC 2-26 will eliminate moisture and CRC Contact Cleaner will clean the contact points between the male and female parts of the relays when you hook them back together. You can also seal the outside of the relay to prevent further moisture from entering where they hook together. Check the contacts at the fuse holder at the forks. They sometimes get loose and are difficult to see if one blew if you have the originals. One thing about relays is that you never know for sure if you are purchasing one that is no good to begin with. I did so recently. I believe you are simply going to have to go through the system and check the contact points or ground areas to determine where the electrical gremlin is attacking you from. You can also check your plug wires and use a liberal coat of dielectric grease on the caps. It does not sound as if you have a broken spark plug wire though. Water is not your friend on a Ural. Things often look dry that are not, so cleaning things up and making good contacts goes a long way. I have always wondered if wrapping the relays would help a bit or cause them to overheat. The thing I hate most is that most of my problems similar to what you are having, always seem to involve removal of that blamed seat and putting my big mitts into the smallish area left to work in. It sure seems like the design team could have made a plate on the inboard side that removes as easily as the one on the outboard side does. Sure would be easier to dig around in to find that gremlin and strangle him by the neck.

 

It doesn't hurt to empty the carb bowls either, but from what you are indicating, it is electrical in nature. For all the work you mention on valve adjusting, I believe you are mixing two different problems that don't relate to your bike not running. To me, it is electrical in nature for the bike not running, and not that you needed a valve adjustment. Get out your tester and track things, and good luck. Let us know your findings.

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...if I didn't come back home on a flatbed at least once. I've been running great until 1 1/2 weeks ago when it rained cat and dogs. Some of the dogs got in both cylinders and they had water in them. Drained that out, dried the plugs, and really had a hard time starting. Eventually got one jug to fire (right) and took it out on the road. Gave some throttle and bumped the other jug into action. Now, I ran it quite a bit after that, but it wasn't quite right. It was a bit more vibratory than usual, and clattering more. I wrote that off to a ham-fisted adjustment of the valve clearances and balancing in the dark, getting ready for a camping trip.

 

Back from the trip and I commuted to work. Kicked over fine, ran well. It poured rain again while I was in and at the end of the day the bike was dead as a doornail. I had done once over when I parked it, and I KNOW there were no lights on, etc. Got a jump from a coworker and immediately fried the starter relay. Set it on fire. Down to NAPA for a new one and we're in business. Bike turns over on the starter and won't start. Pulled the plugs...dry and not fouled . Checked the valves and the intake on the right was pretty tight. Reset that. Have spark. Pretty weak on left side but there. Fresh gas. Enricheners won't stay out. I pull them and they want to pop back in. Did that the first go round as well. I'm not sure where to go next. Took the AAA RV ride home. Any ideas? Chris

Just my opinion, but I don't think it is carb problems at all. Lots of contact points on a Ural to challenge you. You said you changed the relay, but if the old one fried, then there was a problem there to begin with. Hope you cleaned the relay connection with some cleaner prior to insertion for replacement of the old one. Some CRC 2-26 will eliminate moisture and CRC Contact Cleaner will clean the contact points between the male and female parts of the relays when you hook them back together. You can also seal the outside of the relay to prevent further moisture from entering where they hook together. Check the contacts at the fuse holder at the forks. They sometimes get loose and are difficult to see if one blew if you have the originals. One thing about relays is that you never know for sure if you are purchasing one that is no good to begin with. I did so recently. I believe you are simply going to have to go through the system and check the contact points or ground areas to determine where the electrical gremlin is attacking you from. You can also check your plug wires and use a liberal coat of dielectric grease on the caps. It does not sound as if you have a broken spark plug wire though. Water is not your friend on a Ural. Things often look dry that are not, so cleaning things up and making good contacts goes a long way. I have always wondered if wrapping the relays would help a bit or cause them to overheat. The thing I hate most is that most of my problems similar to what you are having, always seem to involve removal of that blamed seat and putting my big mitts into the smallish area left to work in. It sure seems like the design team could have made a plate on the inboard side that removes as easily as the one on the outboard side does. Sure would be easier to dig around in to find that gremlin and strangle him by the neck.

 

It doesn't hurt to empty the carb bowls either, but from what you are indicating, it is electrical in nature. For all the work you mention on valve adjusting, I believe you are mixing two different problems that don't relate to your bike not running. To me, it is electrical in nature for the bike not running, and not that you needed a valve adjustment. Get out your tester and track things, and good luck. Let us know your findings.

 

weeeell...I don't know. I got to the point where I had fuel, had spark at each plug, the ignition was blinking away, and the starter was cranking the engine over. I agree there are electrical gremlins galore on my rig, but it seems that every thing electrical which I need to have happen for a successful liftoff is happening now. In the beginning, I think it was clearly electrical; dead battery, something drained it (short in the relay, which fried?) . Now I think that may be resolved, aside from making sure I have a fully charged battery, which I do not yet have. I probably wasn't clear....Chris

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