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Hi, i have a Ural M67-36, 1980. when I down shift when heading to a set of traffic light or a corner the gearbox jumps out of 3rd and 2nd, ONLY on downshifting. Going up the gears is OK. On the rear of the gear box there are the two adjustment bolts. Can somebody tell me do I screw the top bolt (downshift adjustment) IN or OUT to make the gear fully engage. cheers David

Hi all! I am rebuilding an Ural M63 from 1969, I will show here all the work. Does anyone know a spare parts catalogue for this model?

Just bought this bike from a late friend's family. I love it, but I have idea what year or model it might be. i'm pretty sure it's a early 70's, but I'm not sure. Tires say "Made in USSR" and lights have "CCCP" stamped. Can I determine the year from the frame number or engine number? I'm hoping the experts here can help. Thanks, and I'm thrilled to own a old school Ural.

I have made some IMZ logo wall clocks and Terry Crawford has them for sale. They are 3d printed and have quartz battery movements. Through design improvements I have the print time down to 14 hours per single clock. The link to view them is http://www.crawfords...nfo/?page_id=22 You can see pictures there, The board tells me my pictures are too large to upload. I will put a couple in the gallery if possible.

After five years, its time to part with my baby. Up for sale is my '57 IMZ (Ural) M72. This bike was purchased and rebuilt in Uzbekistan during my tour there in 2013-14. For the most part, all parts were NOS from Soviet times with the exception of a few odds and ins from "oldtimersgarage" and seats, carbs and pipes from Ben at "sidecar pro." We scoured the bazaars and junk yards in Uzbekistan and found most things still in the box from Soviet times. The whole build was documented with photos, and really a great experience. The bike sat in Bishkek Kyrgyzstan for over a year while I was in Pakistan, and was imported to VA this spring. It is fully customs cleared and registered in VA. I also have the tech passport and bill of sale in Russian from Uzbekistan, as well as the original Uzbek license plate. The bike was meticulously rebuilt, with some unique additions like the use of cabling from an armored Suburban to keep the wiring neat and clean and a fast-clip release for the wiring to the side car. During the move, the shipping container rubbed a spot on the headlamp and on the front forks, but just cosmetic scratches. There is some surface rust starting to form on some of the bolts on the sidecar, and around the gas tank cap. On my last ride my relay box crapped out, and I'm in the process of replacing that now. Estimated delivery 13 August from Ukraine. Other than that it runs fine, and is still in the break-in period with only 214 km on the odometer since it was rebuilt. After sitting, its in need of a tune up and a carb cleaning. Had a gas drip from the left carb when I rode last, so not sure if the float is stuck. It really is a very unique ride that turns a lot of heads. So why am I selling?!? We're heading back overseas and it will just sit in storage until we get back to the states. Its about 360 kilos, so takes up too much of our weight, so the col. (my wife) won't let me take it with. Besides, I don't have the tools or time to tinker with it and keep it running like a champ. She needs a good home, and this will make room for our next project!

Looking for a Type 5 ignition for my '04 Retro. Just looking for the external electronic Hockey puck. Many people upgraded to Ducati and Pwer rc years ago, and MIGHT have a working type 5 laying around in a dusty corner or box! Please let me know!! I will pay handsomely (because I am soooooo handsome! Not interested in one that was swapped for the others listed above because it was failing....Thanks! Please help a brother out!! Michael S. '04 Retro Baltimore, MD

2007 Ural Patrol 3198 Miles/5148 km $6800 Maintenance performed by a certified Ural mechanic in Dayton Ohio, Garage Kept, Spare Wheel and Tire, Luggage Rack, Fluid Canister, Ammo Box, Sidecar power outlet, Tool Roll, Tire Pump, Battery Charger, Manuals and extras. A few blemishes but the bike looks great. Small wrinkle in the front fender is hard to see from a few feet away. Runs great. Located in Chesapeake, Ohio Text or Call 740-646-4897 Leave a message if I do not answer. I will call you back. 07 Ural Patrol 2.bmp

Here is what I know, please feel free to correct or inform me if I misstate or miss something. I acquired this bike in 2005. It has a Michigan Assembled Title of the same year. Paperwork I have for it says it is a Dnepro 650. From what I have determined, it is a 1985 MT-11 frame with a 650cc engine and 4speed trans. It has electronic ignition with kick start only. I rebuilt both carbs with kits from Arbelet Ukraine and installed new spark plus & battery his month. I have an owners manual, engine gaskets, wheel spokes and extra side car lights to go with it. It starts and runs well, brakes work ok but could use some improvement. Located in Wyandotte, Michigan Asking $3600or best offer. contact me at: fkrabach@gmail.com 734-672-2197

As you may now the Ural/Dnepr gearboxes can have oil leaks through the clutch bearing housing of the gearboxes. The reason for that is the bearing housing wich is worn in the interior because of the movement of the clutch bearing: So I have dismounted the bearing housing from the gearbox, in order to do that the best way is to put a cylinder in the gearbox as a counter force, heating the area with a torch and after that you can extract whitout problems the bearing housing: So, a turner has machined this part and intoduced inside a cast iron cylinder which is more resistant the then aliminium:

I received my electronic copy of Popular Mechanics labeled May 2017. The cover features the topic "Smart Everything". They visited IMWA headquarters and went on a snow ride. They loved the bike. Good article.

I am selling my Ural M63 (year 1969) wich is completely rebuilt from zero. Price: 3000 euro (whitout shipping). Rebuilt engine with new pistons, Goetze rings, new timing gear, rectified tapets, new valves, guydes and rectified seats, new bearings, new wiring. The gearbox is in a very good condition, new bearings and seals. Final drive has new gears (8/37), new seals and the shaft has new cardan joint spider. The wheels have new spokes, almost new drums, new brake shoes, new bearings, new russian tires and tubes. The front forkes has rectified pipes, new seals and new bushes. The rear suspension has new shock absorber. The frame is in a very a good condition, it was not damaged. The bike is painted black with the white lines on the gas tank like the original one. For more informations you can ask or folow the link ( http://www.russianir...showtopic=15431 ) where you can find more than 500 hundred pictures with the rebuilt process. The bike has new documents recognized by UE legislation (Romania is in the European Comunity). Phone: 0040 736 128 764 Email: lznicu@yahoo.com Location: Bucharest, Romania

...the REAL Deal >>> S-O-L-D 2011 URAL T Please know what a Ural is. She must go to an appreciative buyer. Carburetor model (EFI bikes require a laptop for bike service). For sale because I started a new era with British bikes and we will run out of space for inside storage. 22xxx miles = 35xxx kilometers (I continue to ride until she’s sold) flat black first owner 1 WD (IMPORTANT: read why not 2 WD; see below) 4-stroke, opposed 2-cylinder, 750ccm comes with 3 additional tires (1x new, 1x 80% tread depth left, 1x 20% left) reverse gear brake on side car front disc brake alu rims very well maintained, all service intervals are documented (service book) runs and sounds better than a stock model (dealer carb rejetting, H-D mufflers and K&N filter installed) Total investment: more than $ 15K (considering current retail price plus all of my accessories) Sales Price: As a fair value I consider between $ 8,500 and $ 8,000 for my Ural. I want/need a quick Ural transfer to a new owner - therefore, $ 7,500 is the price tag. More accessories (approx. 35 items) included: -- added parts value (not labor costs; more than 20 hrs.) exceeds $3,500.00 -- upgraded solo seat (stock tractor seat available) rider windshield (quick release) passenger windshield with apron 2 side car covers (with and without use of passenger windshield) leg shields heated hand grip system quick fuel disconnect spare wheel 2 jerry cans (stainless steel) shovel auxiliary head lamp (side of side car) luggage rack (on top of mounted spare wheel) luggage rack for fender (fits side car and bike rear fender) H-D mufflers (stock mufflers available) additional fuel filter (see through) customized tool/storage box -between side car and rear bike wheel- can be taken off prior to sale customized retro turn signals and tail light at bike (better than plastic stock parts) customized head lamp protector aftermarket handlebar and riser (better riding position, better steering, adds comfort) throttle lock engine guard with highway peg on left side car horn installed two 12V power outlets in side car side car wheel hub cab trunk lock passenger pegs (motorcycle) available sidecar nose “rack” with bungee-carabiner combo leather tool bag (rear of side car) light weight “specialty tool” for easy wheel change (all 3 wheels); very convenient for longer road trips) Contact me via email: makune@me.com I’m in the process of getting a new phone... The Ural lives in New Mexico, close to Santa Fe. Marcus 2WD Pros can make it easier in mud and snow, 1WD can be good enough, depends on rider (side car drags behind in mud/snow) status for being manly, similar to 4x4 trucks nice toy 2WD Cons weight distribution of extra parts not in favor for riding sidecar wheel is further to the rear, not good for handling (sidecar frame is higher due to 2WD parts) extra weight extra maintenance something more to break down improper use of 2WD leads to damage of ‘primary drive’ 95% or more of time not necessary (surface conditions) (just like 4x4 with trucks, you barely use it!) engaged 2WD puts pulling and drifting into reverse it’s not a real 2WD because you only engage it in critical conditions you pay for the marketing of Ural’s 2WD easier to change a rear flat with 1WD 2WD costs ~ $2,500

Comrades, I have succed to build an electronic ignition with good quality parts. I was inspired by the electronic ignition from BMW R65, sensor hall and CDI, mounted on parts designed by me: Parts mounted: This was the first test, just to test the functionality of the selected parts: After that the real tests: 1. 2. 3. 4. Soon, it will be ready for sale and you will forget about the ignition problems!

Hi, my 650 ural looses power as soon as it reaches 60mph. It just misfires and looses power. If i stop for a few mins it recovers and is fine until i reach speed again. I thought fuel starvation so cleaned petcock filters, and carbs to make no diference, i changed plugs and checked timing, no good it just cannot keep its speed please help thanx

ElectroIgnition M103 Ignition Kit for Ural 650 OHV engines ElectroIgnition M103 is a contactless electronic ignition kit for Ural 650 OHV engines using good quality parts for better performance and reliability. This ignition kit eliminate completely the old parts of the original Russian ignition and requires to install some parts outside the engine and it works only for the motorcycles with 12 Volts electric system. The M103 ignition kit replaces the PM-301/PM-302/PM-302A ignitions and it works at all Ural 650 engines with this type of ignition points called also the "mixing bowl of doom". The ignition kit type M103 is composed by the following parts: 1. Plate with Hall sensor and plate signal trigger with bolt 2. Ignition module with wires (soldered connectors) 3. Ignition coil 4. Cable ignition Beru (1 meter) 5. NGK sparkplugs 6. Bolts (inbus 5mm) for plate fixation 7. Various conectors for the wires: Installation and setup 1. Mount the plate sensor using the three Allen 5mm bolts (inbus bolts), for beginning the bolts should be in the centre of the oval holes like is shown in the picture below: 2. Before mounting the plate trigger signal you have to align the pistons by slowly turning the engine until you reach the first mark on the flywheel wich is the maximum advance timing point, this sign is shortly before the Top Dead Center sign (TDC). 3. After aligning the pistons in the maximum advance point sign you can mount the the plate trigger signal using the 6mm hex bolt and tighten the plate trigger with the nut. The plate trigger signal has to be in the position showed below with the painted part in line with the sensor ignition. 4. After this operation you can start the engine and procede to the final settings by moving the plate sensor in order to give more timing advance or to reduce the timing advance. 5. The plate trigger signal has to be mounted with an equal space between the Hall sensor elements, in order to do that you can use some 6mm washer like in the image below: If necessary you can slightly bend the plate trigger sensor for a better adjustment. 6. DO NOT MOUNT the ignition coil and the ignition module inside of the ignition engine compartment, the excessive heat and vibrations will damage the ignition coil and the ignition module. In fact these are the main reasons for the rapid breakdown and failure of the Russian ignition parts. The recommended place to install the ignition module and the ignition coil is on the frame under the tank. 7. Wiring conections: in the box of the ignition kit there is a printed electric schema. Also, below are described the conections between the parts from the ignition kit: a. Green/yellow wire from the ignition module must be connected at the ignition coil at the connector 1 (inscripted on the coil). b. Black wire from the ignition module must be connected at minus (ground). c. Red wire from the ignition module must be connected at the ignition switch in order to start and stop the engine from the ignition switch. Also the ignition coil positive connector 15 (inscripted on the coil) must be connected at the ignition switch. d. Blue wire from the ignition module (input +) must be connected with the red wire from the Hall sensor. e. Yellow wire from the ignition module (input -) must be connected with the green wire from the Hall sensor. f. The cooling plate from the ignition module must be connected to minus (ground) directly by bolts or if it is not possible by a wire with bolt. PRICE: 137$, only by PayPal. Note: ElectroIgnition it is not a company, it is my personal "brand" for this ignition kit wich is designed and realised by me from various aftermarket spareparts (JMP, Mobiletron NGK, Beru). However, if you buy this product you will benefit for all the conditions like you are buying from a company (warranty, technical support). Warranty is offered only if the ignition kit is mounted on the bike by specialised personnel. Every ignition kit is tested before selling on the engine for full functionality.

As the type 5 ignition distribution rotors seem to be unavailable, has anyone found a source for or even a compatible replacement for the URAL type 5 ignition rotor?

Ural wanted I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota SLT 6 cylinder with 46000 miles for trade thanks