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I have begun to rebuild a Dnepr 650 (I think MT11, year 1988) and convert to a Dnepr MT9 with that incredible 6V russian bike design. And it will became something like that:

I have now a Dnepr engine, I'm not crazy about them but I think they are not so bad as the people are saying. This is the first Dnepr engine I am repairing, I will analyze it and I will do everything is possible to remove the design and manufacturing problems. I started with ckecking the cylinders and I found the reason why the engine was stuck, the water entered in the piston head through carburetors that were not sealed properly: The same problems on both sides.

G'day folks, I have recently inherited an MT9 that has been in storage for about 30 years and am in the process of restoring it. It will start first kick but will only run on one pot. However after it has been shut down I can start it up again and it will sometimes fire up on the other cylinder and run just as well as it did on the other side. When running there is ample spark to both plugs {new}.Both sides are receiving fuel. I have been through the motions of setting the timing and valve clearances but am at a loss as to what may be causing this issue. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Cheers Merv

Hi. I have successfully made the old MT-9 start with a couple of kicks, using 6volt wasted spark points ignition, a Borbin 2CV ignition coil, and the horrible K301 carbs. I have also adjusted the valves, and It actually ran sort of ok but not very smooth, and the carbs kept flooding. As I wish a more reliable bike, I took the plunge and ordered a pair of K68 carbs from Ural Zentrale, and at that price I guess, they are China copies. Yesterday I sanded the adapter plates flat, and mounted the carbs after I cleaned them, set the floater height, the initial 1,5 turns out on the idle mixture screw, and the slider height using a 6mm drill bit. Then I primed it with the ticklers, pulled the chokes and started kicking, and kicking.... and kicking...... and kicking........ Yes it would cough and spit, but not more than a couple of farts and then die, and it didn´t help to push in the chokes either, just the opposite in fact. After a bit of back and forth with the mixture screws I got it running enough to start adjusting. I backed out the screws slowly but it did not increase the rpms like I suspected, back in until it slowed down, and a little bit back again. The idle speed was ok now, but one side was still stumbling. So I backed out the mixture screw of that one until it ran stable, and got a nice low idle. But when I opened the throttle it would go booooaaaaaaarrrrb boooooaaaaarrrb...... and wanted to die. Then I thought it must be too lean from the mainjet, and raised the needles as far as they go. It helped to a point where I could roll on the gas, but not snap it open. I left it to cool down, and was a not able to get it running again and gave up for the day. Today I gave it another change, and as I also bought a new Electronic Microprocessor ignition 1135.3734 12B, I thought why not install it to make sure the timing was correct. This has now been installed to light up exactly on the timing mark, but the bike still only want to cough and spit. I could really need some advise, as I don't see what is wrong with the K68. I know it is bad practice to replace more parts at the same time, until one issue has been fixed, and I have thought about switching the K301s back in, just to make sure the ignition is correct. But I really don't feel this is the problem at the moment. Regards Kim

Found these on fleabay... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DNEPR-MT9-16-PAIR-OF-ROCKER-COVERS-SKULLS-UKRAINE-A-BIT-OF-FUN-/291005381757?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item43c145bc7d