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  1. Hi, After many years of car-driving, I missed the flies in my teeth, and have recently bought another Russian combination (my last one was an IZH Jupiter). The "new" one was bought as a 1964 K750 - and that is what it says on the maker's plate. Now, though, I'm starting to have doubts: The seats have a big, horizontal spring, like an M72, not rubber dampers; The rear suspension is not swinging-arm, which it should be, according to the photos on b-cozz.com ; The sidecar front light is the same as on an M72 sidecar. Now, I know that a lot can change over 55 years. For instance, over the years, it's been fitted with a Chiang Jang gearbox, Ducati ignition, Nippon Denso generator, and the wheels are from a Ural. But plunger suspension is pretty permanent, I would have thought, and the maker's plate is fixed to the (plunger) frame, so what is going on? Let's face it, I never was a shining light where mechanics are concerned - the biggest job I ever undertook by myself was replacing the pistons on my old Speed Twin (and that was a looong time ago) - but should I be looking for a K750 workshop manual, or one for an M72? The Swedish guy I bought it off just said, "It's all the same ######!" (when he says something is "######", he usually means that it's good), but I'd appreciate a second opinion, if anyone can spare a moment. Cheers!
  2. After five years, its time to part with my baby. Up for sale is my '57 IMZ (Ural) M72. This bike was purchased and rebuilt in Uzbekistan during my tour there in 2013-14. For the most part, all parts were NOS from Soviet times with the exception of a few odds and ins from "oldtimersgarage" and seats, carbs and pipes from Ben at "sidecar pro." We scoured the bazaars and junk yards in Uzbekistan and found most things still in the box from Soviet times. The whole build was documented with photos, and really a great experience. The bike sat in Bishkek Kyrgyzstan for over a year while I was in Pakistan, and was imported to VA this spring. It is fully customs cleared and registered in VA. I also have the tech passport and bill of sale in Russian from Uzbekistan, as well as the original Uzbek license plate. The bike was meticulously rebuilt, with some unique additions like the use of cabling from an armored Suburban to keep the wiring neat and clean and a fast-clip release for the wiring to the side car. During the move, the shipping container rubbed a spot on the headlamp and on the front forks, but just cosmetic scratches. There is some surface rust starting to form on some of the bolts on the sidecar, and around the gas tank cap. On my last ride my relay box crapped out, and I'm in the process of replacing that now. Estimated delivery 13 August from Ukraine. Other than that it runs fine, and is still in the break-in period with only 214 km on the odometer since it was rebuilt. After sitting, its in need of a tune up and a carb cleaning. Had a gas drip from the left carb when I rode last, so not sure if the float is stuck. It really is a very unique ride that turns a lot of heads. So why am I selling?!? We're heading back overseas and it will just sit in storage until we get back to the states. Its about 360 kilos, so takes up too much of our weight, so the col. (my wife) won't let me take it with. Besides, I don't have the tools or time to tinker with it and keep it running like a champ. She needs a good home, and this will make room for our next project!
  3. russian. 50$ +reg.post
  4. G'day All, I don't know if this worked the first time so Here goes again, I'll make it a bit different if it did go through. I have a M72 of unknown origin, the motor is a KMZ750, the headlight, Speedo, wheels, seat are CJ750 and the frame is not (either I suspect). Frame No. LH plunger frame is 12661, 12691, 1269, 1266, 266 or 269. The ones look like marks made with the edge of a stamp not ones, however they are only at the ends of the number not throughout it so maybe they are ones. The ID plate on the steering stem is so obviously adopted that I cannot trust it. I will try and learn the art of posting pictures (last time deleted or posted my efforts, not sure which) and post some ASAP. Engine Number is 66315 and there are no stars on it, it is also sans the date normally stamped on the LHS next to valve adjustment cover. Gearbox Number is 358612. Would like to know more about its history and if it is a bitsa or not. Cheers Tad Haggard
  5. Hi All, I've fitted an MT804 gearbox with a reverse to my 1954 M72. I've read on the forum where someone fitted one which was very helpful, however i'm stumped as to where to put the rear brake spring as the new gearbox doesn't have a stud for it like the old M72 gearbox did. Any thoughts?
  6. In the beginning of the summer I changed carburetors on Nikita (M72 1953) from 301/302 to Chinese PZ28D:s that I changed the jets in from the original .92 to .95, since I read that SV:s with PZ28:s like between .95-.97 best. I have tuned and balanced the carbs with a "harmonizer" using the "vacuum method". Color on spark plugs is okay both on idle and around 80km/h (50mph)... But... I need full choke even in very warm weather (not usual here in Sweden - read North pole)... I have no idle before she gets warm but steady when she worked up a good temperature. She answers very quick on throttle and don't misfire like she use to with the 301/302:s, but she's quite hard to start and when she gets warmed up, even harder to start. I have quite heavy Bakelite spacers (right word?) and heat protection shields between the carbs and the cylinders... New spark plugs and breaker points set at .50mm (.019). I'm thinking that it's maybe the float levels and that she needs more fuel at the start and maybe it's so little in the float chamber so it just evaporates when shes hot (or am I just dead wrong). The float needles only have one notch. Do I just "slide" the needle and will it stay like that or do I make new notches with a small file?... //Pete
  7. Is anyone willing to be a test rider and provide feedback on a flat head engine still using 6 volts? I prefer someone located in the USA, bonus points for Wisconsin or surrounding location to speed up the process of test feed back. Here is the deal...If you would love a Power Arc based C5 ignition and have a 6 volt bike, lets talk. We need feedback on starting, smoothness at idle, performance at higher end of rpm range, and feed back on how the two curves compare. Changes in engine temperature would also be valuable. You will be using our newest coil rated over 100k volts and I will provide a toggle switch for changing between timing curves. I really think the flat head will see greater improvements that on OHV type and we've never had a 6 volt kit until now. Toss that PM-05 ignition and help us out. You will be world famous! Anyone want to give it a go??
  8. Hi guys, I have converted Nikita (M72 1953) to 12V and and electronic ignition. I will put up a special thread about all that later... When I opened up the the timing gear case (tower?) I saw that the cam gear where chipped and didn't look to well. I didn't have any new gears that I could switch to and I had borrowed a garage so I couldn't wait for new parts either... Before I changed to the new 12V generator Nikita had always been a little noisy, but after the change it got worse. It was a pinging sound when the teeth of the generator gear moved over the cam gear teeth. It was like they were not in sync. Like the generator tooth came down to early on the cam tooth and made a "ping". The only way to get it more silent was to turn the generator and make the (lash?) to tight. I knew that this was not good for the generator so I lashed it loser and accepted the grinding, pinging sound... Now I had to leave the garage and get the bike down to my girlfriends place 300km down south. I had planned to take Nikita on a trailer but it didn't work out in the end so I had no options left then to drive Nikkie down the 300km... She run okay with the new ignition and generator, and except for a cable that came lose and made her stop charging, it was no problems. The grinding/ping sound was constant and didn't get any worse on the way down. So now I'm down south and I opened her up again yesterday. The cam gear looks the same after 300km. No more chipping then before I started. So some questions now... : 1) Why did I get the sound after I switched generators? ( I used the gear from the old generator) 2) Got new gears from Magnus now (Crank, Cam and generator)... Is it possible to pull the cam gear without taking out the cam and do that while the engine is still in the frame? Crank and generator would not be a problem... 3) Heard much about the "Herzog gears" on the newer Urals, at Oldtimers it says that the "old" timing gears will fit M72, K750, MB750 and Ural. http://www.oldtimerg...products_id=904 Can I use the newer Herzog gears for Nikita? 4) She sounds like a coffee grinder on steroids now, do you think I could run her like this summer out? Do anyone else ride around with this kind of noise? //P
  9. NOS 1969 spotlights with dual use anti-aircraft blackout covers. Original box, butchers paper and QC slip. USD45 each or happy to look at a bulk discount if a club or group of riders can purchase together. Full details at: http://www.sidecarpr...i-aircraft.html Ride safe Ben Sidecar Pro
  10. I am selling my Ural M72 (year 1956) wich is completely rebuilt from zero. Price: 4500 euro (whitout shipping). Rebuilt engine with new pistons, Goetze rings, new timing gear, rectified tapets, rectified valves and seats, new bearings, new 12V generator with electronic regulator, new 12V wiring, modified camshaft for centrifugal advanced distributor ( I have also the original distributor), new final exhaust. The gearbox is in a very good condition, new bearings and seals. Final drive has new gears (8/37), new seals and the shaft has new cardan joint spider. The wheels have new spokes, rectified drums, new brake shoes, new bearings, new russian tires and tubes. The front forkes has rectified pipes, new seals and new bushes. The rear suspensions have new pipes made from shock absorber steel by a turner, not chinese stuff made from "dead" iron. The frame is in a very a good condition, it was not damaged and is powder coated. The bike was painted in 2013, the sidecar has new seat and it was not damaged. For more informations you can ask or folow the link ( http://www.pro-bike....urare-ural-m72/ ) where you can find more than 500 hundred pictures with the rebuilt process. The bike has new documents recognized by UE legislation (Romania is in the European Comunity).
  11. Does anyone have any advice on refinishing cylinders on side valve motors? I am working on an engine rebuild and I need to clean/refinish the cylinders. I was considering either getting them hot tanked/sonic cleaned at the machine shop, or sand blasted. Then I guess painting them with engine paint. I have seen what looks like un-finished cylinders. Cleaned and left natural. Is that a thing? I don’t mind patina, but I don’t want rust/flaking paint. What do you suggest?
  12. MotoJ

    2014 05 26 13.45.05

    From the album: The M-72 project

    '56 M72m
  13. MotoJ

    2014 05 26 13.44.07

    From the album: The M-72 project

    '56 M72m
  14. MotoJ

    2014 05 26 13.43.36

    From the album: The M-72 project

    '56 M72m on a solo ride. Oil drippings from generator loosening while riding.
  15. I have a customer with a 1953 M72. He wants to install our C5 (PowerArc based) ignition into it. I've looked at pictures, called a few friends, and can't confirm if a modern ignition would be a direct swap. Since I've installed the Dnepr (older Ural) adapter plate in my own bike, It appears that it could work. The points cup seems to fit the size/shape needed for the swap. Please let me know if you have experience with this. Your help will be greatly appreciated. My phone is 920-810-0946 and you can text or call (central time zone) at reasonable hours:) Thanks!! Paul
  16. Hi all I am a new member from Tasmania on the bottom end of Australia. Have just bought a 1958 (ish) M72 with the aim of restoring it back to its original glory. I haven't owned (or in fact riden) a bike for quite a few years but having turned 50 I decided I needed to treat myself to a mid life crisis and buy another bike (or two maybe). The bike is fairly sound and has had the motor rebuilt - The body is a bit rough but is solid and mainly cosmetic body fixes needed along with the usual new cables, wiring etc. From my (limited) knowledge and what I could find by trolling the net I think the bike is pretty original with a couple of minor things that may have been changed. The rear guard is from another bike (different colour) and I believe the engine covers could be from a later model motor (possibly a k750) I would welcome any information anyone could give me on the bike - Anything you can see that is not original or that would help to positively identify the model. The motor is stamped 1958 and the bike looks about that era but I haven't been able to find much information to accurately date it and it appears the numbers on the frame etc don't seem to mean a lot from what I have read. Anyway I intend stripping the bike and respraying the frame, guards and tank over the next few weeks so will try and post a few pics as I go along. Appreciate any help or information anyone can give me. I would also like to express my undying gratitude to Charlie at Good Karma Productions for the unbelievable amount of great information he has amassed on his site for the Ural bikes. It has already been invaluable and I'm sure will be used even more over the coming weeks and months. cheers for now Chris.
  17. Hi people, Could someone help me with these parts, what are they called and what is the function. Are they for locking the tank to the frame, or are they meant for something else?...
  18. Pete Swede

    parts ID

    From the album: M72 Parts

  19. Found a new-made Polish 12v-100w alternator (price includes a 12v regulator) on Ebay by a company called Fa. J.Tomaszewski... ------> Click to go to E-bay //P
  20. Hi all I am currenly working on my first vintage bike restoration - a 1958 Ural M72 and was wondering if anyone can provide me with some information on the serial numbers etc on the bike. I have got the bike stripped down and am working my way through the bodywork getting ready for a respray. Now that I've scraped off several years of accumulated grime, grease, rust and dirt I have uncovered several numbers on the bike frame, engine and nameplate as follows. The Nameplate has several numbers (see photo below). There is the model number, M72M, and the year, 1958, Then 160995 which matches the number on the frame above the rear plunger. The next number is 175146 which matches one of the numbers on the motor. So far so good - There is also a second number on the motor, 38864 which I have no idea about and also a third number which I believe is the date of manufacture, 6 58 for June 1958. Can anyone with any knowledge of this bike please let me know if you think the tag is genuine - given the condition and the fact that the numbers all match I am assuming it is but I have heard that these are available as reproductions so I'm not 100% sure. Also if anyone has any additional info on the numbers I would be very grateful - Do the numbers signify anything other than just a unique identifier for the frame and motor and also what is the 38864 number meant to signify. I tried to translate the russian text on the tag but without a lot of luck - best I could work out with google translator is the text in front of the 160995 number is "Motorcycle". Any help greatly appreciated as I am trying to restore the bike to as close as possible to original condition and would really like to know if the motor and frame are an original match. Thanks Chris.
  21. Very nice belt buckle... http://borbro.com/pages/buckles.html I just got to get one...!!!
  22. Just found this at Oldtimers Garage... Says it replaces G-11 and that would include G-414... Have anyone tested it? http://www.oldtimergarage.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4214
  23. Just found this at Oldtimers Garage... Says it replaces G-11 and that would include G-414... Have anyone tested it? http://www.oldtimerg...48cd3a75f520105
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