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Showing results for tags 'k750'.
Found 24 results
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After I will finish the Ural M63 I will begin a new project: my second Ural M72. I have tested the few spare parts I have in order to see if I have problems with the frame, but I am lucky, the frame is in a good shape:
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I have begun to rebuild a Dnepr 650 (I think MT11, year 1988) and convert to a Dnepr MT9 with that incredible 6V russian bike design. And it will became something like that:
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I am looking to rebuild the engine from my '67 (?) K-750M. I have never rebuilt one of these before, so I am looking for any tips/techniques/traps associated with this engine. I've been reading a lot of bike rebuild stories from this and other sites, but I haven't found a thread dedicated to rebuilding these engines. Any suggestions/advice?
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Hey guys, my 1963 KMZ K750 just blew one of the rear light bulbs, but there isn't written anything on them, so I just wanted to ask, if any one of you know what wattage the K750 uses for both the rear and break light, since I can't seem to find anything about it online :/
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so, my Dnepr k750 stoped charging the battery, the electronic charging relay from jan-buchwald.dk isn't something I can figure out how to see if it still works, but the dynamo is what that's confuses me. i have had it pulled apart, cleaned the brushes, cleaned the contacts on the commutator, checked it for shorts, checked the windings for any shorts or brakeges and resolderes them back in there exact locations that they where in before, checked the field winding, and everything checks out fine. i even tried to "flash" the generator, and no mater what I do, I can only get 0.15v DC when spinning the dam thing at 750rpm (like in this video: ) what is it that im doing wrong ? or perhaps might have overlooked
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hello people of the internet. im strongly thinking about changing my k302 carbs out for either my old pair of original k37 carbs or the pz28 I have laying around. Since the K302 is running WAY to rich, and I have tried rejeting, rebuilding, new spark plugs, hotter spark plugs, timing, ignition you name it, but they just won't run "normal" and always foul up the spark plugs. So those got to go, but I wanted to know, if you guys recommend either the pz28 or the k37 pairs of carbs, when it comes to the size (24mm vs 28mm), since I have read that many people have stated, that 26mm should work best for these old SV engines, and I have read that many have been using the pz28 carbs. I haven't been able to find any information about the k37 carbs, when it comes to needle hight or jet size and all that. But also about, with size carb will work best for my old Dnepr, when comparing these 2 against each other. And if I go with the K37 carbs, should I use the original needle jet with the holes in the top of it, the one that the needles slides up and down in, or the pz28 needle jet, since the k37 is around 5mm longer (from the treads and up) compared to the pz28´s needle jets. The last thing, the k37´s jets say 150, but they look similarly sized to the pz28´s .92 jets, how big is this jet actually? since I can't find any information about, how big these old actually are, compared to keihin or Mikuni jets. the carbs: PZ28D (28mm) (PL10 stamped on the front?) main jet: .92 (properly need a 95 or 98 jet to work correctly) idle jet: ? (a screw with a taper in the end) ---------------------------------------------- K-37 (24mm) main jet: 150 idle jet: 04
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hey guys, I have had some troubles with my carburetors the last couple of months. When ever I have been out and riding for more then lets say 15-20min. the spark plugs always turns sooty, like totally charcoal black, I have changed the main jet from a 200 to a 150, but the soot still occurs on the spark plugs on both cylinders, they are dry and totally black. I have tried with the needle bottomed out, but this only gives me around 5 more minuts or normal driving. I just feel like, no matter what I do, I just can't get my old k750 to run well again. Do I just have to buy a whole new sets of carbs, or is there anything I can do with my other 2 sets of carbs, to get this old lady up and running well again, or is it something completely different that I have overlooked? what I have tried until now, to fix the issue: - change the jet to a smaller size (the smallest i got) - cleaned the air filter. - no air filter - cleaned the carbs and jets. - installed new floats and float needle. - installed a gas filter. - tried new spark plugs. - changed the gas hose to the carbs. - tried changing the carbs for either of the 2 other Pairs I got, but I couldn't get it to run at all then. (useful info if needed) Bike: KMZ K750 1963 (sidevalve, 6v) installed at the moment: spark plugs: NGK BP7HS K-302 main jet: 150 idle jet: 04 ? needle hight: second from the top. mixture screw: 1.5 turns out. ---------------my other 2 pairs of carbs:--------------- PZ28D (28mm) (PL10 stamped on the front?) main jet: 92 needle hight: - slide hole 2 (top hole) - needle hole 2 ( second hole from the top) --------------------------------------------------- K-37 (24mm) main jet: 150 (no needle at the moment, just slide, I used the needle from the PZ28D)
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Hi, After many years of car-driving, I missed the flies in my teeth, and have recently bought another Russian combination (my last one was an IZH Jupiter). The "new" one was bought as a 1964 K750 - and that is what it says on the maker's plate. Now, though, I'm starting to have doubts: The seats have a big, horizontal spring, like an M72, not rubber dampers; The rear suspension is not swinging-arm, which it should be, according to the photos on b-cozz.com ; The sidecar front light is the same as on an M72 sidecar. Now, I know that a lot can change over 55 years. For instance, over the years, it's been fitted with a Chiang Jang gearbox, Ducati ignition, Nippon Denso generator, and the wheels are from a Ural. But plunger suspension is pretty permanent, I would have thought, and the maker's plate is fixed to the (plunger) frame, so what is going on? Let's face it, I never was a shining light where mechanics are concerned - the biggest job I ever undertook by myself was replacing the pistons on my old Speed Twin (and that was a looong time ago) - but should I be looking for a K750 workshop manual, or one for an M72? The Swedish guy I bought it off just said, "It's all the same ######!" (when he says something is "######", he usually means that it's good), but I'd appreciate a second opinion, if anyone can spare a moment. Cheers!
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hello fellow people of the internet, i was wondering if any of you have encountered the same problem/symptoms as i have. i was on my way to a family birthday party on my dnepr k750, when the bike suddenly died on me, so i tried to turn the engine over, but the kickstarter didn't turn the engine over, but it did move and sounded like it always did from the gearbox, but it felt like, that the clutch didn't "grip" the enige, but more like 2 brake shoes was being pressed agains the clutch, much like a bicycle front wheel when you pull the brake on one of those, i even loosened the clutch cable and the gear shifter clutch screw thingy, just to be sure, that it wasn't any of those being problematic. But when i pulled the clutch, the kickstarter could move freely without any problems, i didn't hear any strange sounds or any different behavires from the motor, until it out of the blue died on my :/ but since i won't have time to get to work on it, for the next week, i thought that maybe some of you can tell me, if it is just the clutch that needs to be changed, or if any of you might know, if it can be something more then just that
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My dear comrades, For the victory of the socialism and for the greater good of the working class I have begun to work at the new project: KMZ K750 first model with the short frame. I have buyed this bike as parts, ones I had the frame, after that the sidecar, the engine, I have found a fork and a gearbox, I had the luck to find at a very good price two new Dnepr complete wheels and I am still buying... The bike has no document but I estimate the production year of the frame is from the '50s. I have started as always with the engine, I have picked a good engine housing with no cracks or threads problems:
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Comrades, I have succed to build an electronic ignition with good quality parts. I was inspired by the electronic ignition from BMW R65, sensor hall and CDI, mounted on parts designed by me: Parts mounted: This was the first test, just to test the functionality of the selected parts: After that the real tests: 1. 2. 3. 4. Soon, it will be ready for sale and you will forget about the ignition problems!
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Is anyone willing to be a test rider and provide feedback on a flat head engine still using 6 volts? I prefer someone located in the USA, bonus points for Wisconsin or surrounding location to speed up the process of test feed back. Here is the deal...If you would love a Power Arc based C5 ignition and have a 6 volt bike, lets talk. We need feedback on starting, smoothness at idle, performance at higher end of rpm range, and feed back on how the two curves compare. Changes in engine temperature would also be valuable. You will be using our newest coil rated over 100k volts and I will provide a toggle switch for changing between timing curves. I really think the flat head will see greater improvements that on OHV type and we've never had a 6 volt kit until now. Toss that PM-05 ignition and help us out. You will be world famous! Anyone want to give it a go?? -
The past few weeks I have been working on a new ignition for the flat head models using the PM-05 ignition. Our goal is to remove the entire cable operated "points" type system and replace with a C5 ignition (Power Arc based). Since many of these will end up in non-English speaking countries, and probably in small villages, we insist on creating a kit that does not require any drilling or tapping, no camshaft modifications, and could be reversible. Easy to install, easy to use! Ken and Lorne Ulrich have engines, cams, and motorcycles for this project. I live about an hour away so we've been using U2 Cycles as our "home base" with my materials. What else can you do when the weather is -15 F? First we measured the cam end (inside and out) and all critical heights. Using our existing C5 Ignition kit we created spacers and a new part to hold the encoder disc. The cams on the flat head engine are not threaded for a screw. Today Lorne and I installed and made notes to change a few small things. My machinist is now making a few parts so we can test several designs to securely hold the encoder disc. I am very pleased with the outcome so far, and Lorne was a big help as usual. Even though Ken is on vacation in Texas, we decided to share a few pictures with the forum. While I make the parts, Lorne is focusing on getting one of their flat heads up and running. When the weather gets above zero we can test ride.
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We are working on several designs to secure the encoder to cam without drill/tapping
C5Paul posted a gallery image in Members Gallery
From the album: PM-05 Flat Head Ignition Project
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Since I have owned this bike the ride has been very bad. I realize that it is what it is, but I felt like the front may have damage because is it nearly impossible to compress the forks. So, I took apart the forks and found the usual problems. Bad seals and a lot of muck built up from a lack of maintenance. First off, where is the best place to buy a fork rebuild for these? It looks like there's not much to it, but I still need the main seal, an o-ring and the felt seal. Secondly, are there any tricks for cleaning up the years of abuse? The inside of the components are filthy, and I am not sure how smooth the upper and lower shafts have to be to work right. Finally, the springs have in it seem unnecessarily stiff. They look right, but does anyone have any specs on them? Are they all this stiff? It seems like you can only get 2-3 inches of compression travel out of them before they collapse all the way...are they just meant for rebound, with little to no compression? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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After posting now and again as things have come up, but after seeing the new forum I decided to make this a running thing. So, to catch up to where I am now... I got my 1967 K-750 (mostly, who knows what it started out as) a few years ago. Things started off great. I had some friends with similar bikes and we made good use of them. I had to do the usual: - Wheel Bearings - Changed the 301 carbs for K68s - Cleaned up the PP302 -
NOS 1969 spotlights with dual use anti-aircraft blackout covers. Original box, butchers paper and QC slip. USD45 each or happy to look at a bulk discount if a club or group of riders can purchase together. Full details at: http://www.sidecarpr...i-aircraft.html Ride safe Ben Sidecar Pro -
I am selling my Ural M72 (year 1956) wich is completely rebuilt from zero. Price: 4500 euro (whitout shipping). Rebuilt engine with new pistons, Goetze rings, new timing gear, rectified tapets, rectified valves and seats, new bearings, new 12V generator with electronic regulator, new 12V wiring, modified camshaft for centrifugal advanced distributor ( I have also the original distributor), new final exhaust. The gearbox is in a very good condition, new bearings and seals. Final drive has new gears (8/37), new seals and the shaft has new cardan joint spider. The wheels have new spokes, rectified drums, new brake shoes, new bearings, new russian tires and tubes. The front forkes has rectified pipes, new seals and new bushes. The rear suspensions have new pipes made from shock absorber steel by a turner, not chinese stuff made from "dead" iron. The frame is in a very a good condition, it was not damaged and is powder coated. The bike was painted in 2013, the sidecar has new seat and it was not damaged. For more informations you can ask or folow the link ( http://www.pro-bike....urare-ural-m72/ ) where you can find more than 500 hundred pictures with the rebuilt process. The bike has new documents recognized by UE legislation (Romania is in the European Comunity).
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Does anyone have any advice on refinishing cylinders on side valve motors? I am working on an engine rebuild and I need to clean/refinish the cylinders. I was considering either getting them hot tanked/sonic cleaned at the machine shop, or sand blasted. Then I guess painting them with engine paint. I have seen what looks like un-finished cylinders. Cleaned and left natural. Is that a thing? I don’t mind patina, but I don’t want rust/flaking paint. What do you suggest?
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Hello My name is Lars Erik and comes from Denmark, I am the happy owner of a 63 'K750 I bought autumn 2006. Cosmetic I have only lowered the rear fender and moved the seat down and back out. Engine, gearbox and rear axle has been divorced by and assembled with new seals, but not renovated yet. The engine is the first to be renovated, as both oil seals are broken on the right piston. But otherwise she run really well
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From the album: Lars E's K750
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From the album: Everything else...
K750 full front -
From the album: Everything else...
K750 half front -
I hope this isn't considered bad form, but I already wrote this all out on another forum. Looking for information and advice. I have ordered a few english translation manuals that I could find. http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=30442&p=369514#p369514 Long story, short. This is my first bike. I'm not overly concerned about fully restoring anything. I always liked old bikes. I'd like to get it running well again and spend some time tooling around on it.
