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Found 9 results

  1. Hi guys/ladies, First time on the forum as I just bought me a 1995 Dnepr MT16 and from day 1 it seems I have trouble with the fuel supply to my carbs (K68). For some reason the fuel is not running into to filter house (first only on the right side, but now also on the left side!). But when checking the hoses and the fuel valve on the tank everything seems to be working fine. Fuel is freely running when disconnected from the fuel valve on the tank (with and without fuel filling opening covered), every hose is clean. The filters are not that clean, but I would expect the fuel to run down into the filterhouse even is the filter element should have been completely blocked. The day I got this bike I had problems this the fuel supply to the right carburetor, but I could drive with it. When running idle the motor would stopp after a long time running on idle. This problem disappeared when raising the rmp´s. So I drove it with a rather amount of RPM´s. I borrowed som carb tuning equipment to check my Idle balance. But now I do not get the bike startet due to missing fuel. Is there anybody out here who can help me with some good suggestions where to look to solve this problem? Looking forward to get this bike on the road...... Henk
  2. In the beginning of the summer I changed carburetors on Nikita (M72 1953) from 301/302 to Chinese PZ28D:s that I changed the jets in from the original .92 to .95, since I read that SV:s with PZ28:s like between .95-.97 best. I have tuned and balanced the carbs with a "harmonizer" using the "vacuum method". Color on spark plugs is okay both on idle and around 80km/h (50mph)... But... I need full choke even in very warm weather (not usual here in Sweden - read North pole)... I have no idle before she gets warm but steady when she worked up a good temperature. She answers very quick on throttle and don't misfire like she use to with the 301/302:s, but she's quite hard to start and when she gets warmed up, even harder to start. I have quite heavy Bakelite spacers (right word?) and heat protection shields between the carbs and the cylinders... New spark plugs and breaker points set at .50mm (.019). I'm thinking that it's maybe the float levels and that she needs more fuel at the start and maybe it's so little in the float chamber so it just evaporates when shes hot (or am I just dead wrong). The float needles only have one notch. Do I just "slide" the needle and will it stay like that or do I make new notches with a small file?... //Pete
  3. I have two non-electric start Ural gearboxes for sale, one complete, the other in pieces. Minimal spline wear on both. The one in pieces has a dipstick instead of the fill hole in the side. Airbox included. $150 plus shipping. K65T carburettors. Have about 26,000 Kilometers on them, could use a rebuild. Have viton-tipped float valves and vacuume ports. $20 plus shipping. I will also be parting-out a '97 650 Ural engine, PM me if interested. * all of it SOLD!!*
  4. Pete Swede

    K37 24mm

    From the album: Everything else...

    Original carburetors for M72
  5. Pete Swede

    Needle PZ28D

    From the album: Everything else...

  6. From the album: Everything else...

  7. Pete Swede

    Float PZ28D 2

    From the album: Everything else...

  8. Pete Swede

    Float PZ28D

    From the album: Everything else...

  9. I was browsing the net as usual for info about Nikita (M72 1953), and as usual I ended up at GoodKarma reading all the goodies there... I have put new PZ28D:s on Nickie and I remembered that I have read about re-jetting PZ:s for OHV and SV... I found this gold nugget... Link to the jets in the text... Of course I was interested but I don't know much about jet codes, and in the text it's mm. So I tried to find a cross reference chart to understand what codes I should look for. Everything I found was in inches... So I took one and translated inch to mm:s. Hope it helps anyone else also...
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