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Everything posted by waterdawg2004

  1. Thanks, I did try and retourqe that head and stripped one, I replaced it but maybe tourqe was wrong? Head bolts seemed real soft. I will order new gasket and more head bolts. Thanks for the info. Buck
  2. Different bike from above, but I have the same problem. Blowing oil out thru the exhaust. Any ideas? Thanks.
  3. Thanks, that is a lot of good info. It would make a good book.
  4. In storage for the winter, will put up for sale again in the spring. Thanks
  5. More Photos Also it is titled as a 1968 but looks like a 1986 model, maybe a typo or maybe because it has been rebuilt. It has electronic ignition and Mikuni carbs and square lights.
  6. 1968 Dnepr Russian Army Sidecar Motorcycle $6500 Gillette, Wyoming Runs good Includes Machine gun mount If you see this ad then it is still for sale, I will remove when sold. No text from scammers, cash or local check only. See at East Boxelder Rd. past Camplex, first driveway past water tank in front of Fox Park $6500 obo More photos here on photobucket http://s1056.photobucket.com/…/1968%20or%201986%20Dnepr%20R…
  7. Good to see your back and selling parts again. I am going to replace my 40mm Mikuni carbs with a set of K68 or K65 carbs but I am having a hard time getting information from the sources I can find on ebay and on the internet. They do not seem to know what main jets they have in them or where they are made. So you have any that are set up with the proper jets and adjustmnts? It is for a MT16 Dnepr. Thnks for any help. Buck
  8. Thanks Ken, I was hoping you would weigh in on this. Do you have any for sell, either type would be fine, no hurry. Thanks. Buck
  9. Ok, thanks, why K65T. What idle jet, and main jets should I use in a MT16 with 650 engine. Are Chinese versions OK or should I get the Russia type and where can I buy them ural z has K65 but not K65T? Thanks for the advice, that was what I was looking for.
  10. I am going to replace my 40mm Mikuni carbs with a set of K68 carbs but I am having a hard time getting information from the sources I can find on ebay and on the internet. They do not seem to know what main jets they have in them or where they are made. Does anybody have any recommendations for buying K68 carbs. It is for a MT16 Dnepr. Thanks for any help.
  11. Does anyone sell these for the Dnepr dash? see pic
  12. I found these on ebay, cheap, would they work? Thanks for any advice http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT or these http://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-PAIR-NEW-Carburetor-K68-Upiter-IZH-Russian-K68N-K68A-PEKAR-DNEPR-URAL-/221796682171?hash=item33a41cc9bb&vxp=mtr
  13. Thanks, that is good to know, how do you tune a Pekar carb? Is that where you put a drill bit in and watch for movement. When I use a infrared gun to check cylinder temps, the left side runs about 350F and the right side is 280 so I think they are unbalanced. When you say 28mm carb is that 28mm the ID of the intake side of carb?
  14. I bought from Holopaw Ural for my MT16/MB650 with Mikuni Carbs a set of carb flanges like these so I could have a vaccum port to balance the carbs but they fit 35mm carbs and mine are 40mm carbs at the outlet. See Pic. Are there any made for this size of carb? Thanks for any info.
  15. No serial number on rear right frame? Maybe under paint but before I scrape off the paint how could I tell if it is a MT-16 or MB650. The dealer I bought it from, Vostock in California(now out of business) sold it as a MB650. The title says it is a 1968, but that is not likely? See pics.
  16. Thanks for the posts, after the snow melted and it finally got above freezing I went back out to the garage and unbolted and took off the filter housing. Just too holes on the side of the block and they were not treaded so I could not leave filter housing off. Replaced the 2 O rings on the filter housing and replaced the gauge also. The bike started right up and I had 50 lbs of oil pressure at idle, I am happy again. Now fix my electrical gremlins and I will be ready to ride.
  17. After four years I finally got my Dnper MT16 started:) I had to replace the clutch screws. But no oil pressure, damn, I will buy a new gauge first then pull the oil pan, again, and check pressure relief valve. Also only one of the gauge lights work in any key position, with the engine running or not? The only one that works is the second from left red light, which according to the manuel is the Alternator light, and it stays on all of the time. But my headlights work. So no oil light to tell me I have pressure, but I have a gauge and external filter. See attached pic. The plugs that where in there when I bought it are BPR4ES not BP7HS, what would be the differance and what would be the gap? I think I have the type III russian ignition, if that makes a differance. Thanks for any info or advice. Also, I have never even ridden this bike, it has become just a way to learn engine mechanics, I think I will just leave the seat off permanently:( Buck
  18. To answer my own question, yes grease the spline, see this video from gobium. Thanks gobium https://www.youtube....gobium42/videos
  19. Do I put grease on the gearbox splines before I attach to motor? It seems like the grease might fly off and get on the clutch plates and I could not find anything on the videos or the unofficial ural service manual on line about greasing, but the rear splines are greased, so why not these? Please advise, and thanks, see pic and click for details
  20. OK Progress so far Deburr with countersink, 90 degree 5/8 Cleaned bolt holes with brass brush and loctite cleaner and activatior Put medium strength loctite (blue) on new allen head bolts from Holopaw, on threads and bevel of bolt Torque down hard, 2 sharp rapps on bolt head with brass bar, rorque, repeat again. Counterpunch around edge of allen head screws, twice on oppisite side. Pic of result, click on pic to see details
  21. Or I can buy from Amazon 6 Flute $32+ship Countersink, Single Ended, Number of Flutes 6, Included Angle 90 Deg, Body Dia 5/8 In, Shank Dia 3/8 In, Shank Length 1 In, Overall Length 2 1/4 In, High Speed Steel, Uncoated Finish 6-Flute CountersinksFor fast stock removal and a smooth finish. 3 Flute $18+ship Center Reamer, Single Ended, Number of Flutes 3, Included Angle 90 Deg, Body Dia 3/8 In, Shank Dia 1/4 In, Shank Length 7/8 In, Overall Length 1 3/4 In, Cobalt, Bright Finish 3-Flute Center ReamersDesigned for countersinking holes for center, or for cleaning and enlarging existing holes. The 6 Flute would give me a smooth finish but the 3 Flute is designed for enlarging existing holes and is cheaper. Both the same except one is a countersink(6 flute) and the other is a reamer(3 flute) All the countersinks seem to be built by KEO
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