Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ivar

  1. picks up better in neutral, but not like it should I think.
  2. none nearby. Palyed around with gap / timing today and got it to idle fine (after I fixed a carb that decided to start leaking) , but as soon as I start driving it struggles bad
  3. thought my brother had some but not so. oh well, have to order some then
  4. got to test it , still sparking , but looks like less than before cleaning out the unit. I'll recheck the gap too
  5. points are not new. I suspect it may have been a less than good ground connection on the capacitor
  6. even after doing the normal carb cleaning / timing setting procedures , my bike struggles as soon as I try to give it some throttle, misfiring etc. Pulled off the cover of "the mixing bowl" and saw sparking between the points. Assumed the condensator was done but it looks ok when ohming it , also connections seems good. I'll try to put it back again and readjust gap and see if it still does it. Any other things to think of?
  7. yup - I hate to give up btw, anyone here used the Bill Hirsch tank liner? also bought their hi-temp paint which is supposed to be good stuff
  8. and its alive! put a charger on the battery , some new gas, some more spray to the kill switch
  9. took my boat for a 2hr round trip to the nearest shop, to buy new spark plug caps + plug leads - only to find out they were closed... f**k
  10. yup, I suspected 5M was wrong. I swapped to that coil earlier today. (forgot to measure it before installing) Time to swap back the old one thanks for the specs btw :)
  11. Getting a good fuel flow after I cleaned out the tank. So that should be ok now. a neighbor just passed by, had him have a close look at the plugs - no visible spark at all! Coils are the red Ivan variety, Had 12.3V at the coil. primary side measures 2.5 ohms and secondary was 5 Megaohms. The coil I took off was 5.2 ohms and 9.35kohms. Kill switch: run position = 0 ohms , kill pos is 9 ohms. ..hmmmm...? . ohmed the capacitor, it appears to be ok (resistance rising as it charges) Also pulled a plug cap to verify connection - then the threaded spike broke right off only replacement cap I found was a resistor cap from an outboard. Ohmed the cap/lead from the coil - 5kohms / 0,5 kohms on the other side
  12. this year, my MT16 wasn't as easy as usual to get up and running, fires up and runs for 2-10 seconds then dies. Like it empties the float bowls. cleaned carbs, adjusted ignition , adjusted valves (they were all on the tight side) then found out I had to do the fuel tank, more rust than I was comfortable with. Washed it out with acetic acid. Now waiting for a tank liner kit (bill hirsch) New gas. cleaned carbs some more. -bike still not wiling to stay running. Spark also seems erratic. Suspects my kill switch is acting up - and that the capacitor is starting to go out (saw spark jumping the points when I was checking the gap) also it puzzles me that the left side plug wont get wet with gas even with chokes on full... just needed to vent some frustration....
  13. split rings + gaskets + 1 new ex.nut + fixed the hanger, should be fine for now next project - get rid of some tank rust
  14. threads are good from what I can see. I even bought some new rings in case they weren't. but what about those metal rings, I suspect the split ring is supposed to put some squeeze on the pipe when tightened up by the conical end inside the exhaust nut..? also found that the ex.hanger bolt in front ov the collector was kinda fubar'ed, not helping much in keeping the pipe stay where it was supposed to be
  15. time to dig op this old thread again, looks like everytime I get the bike tuned up good, it blows off the right side pipe. Bought some new nuts + gaskets , and tore down today to have a look at it. At the cylinder, there was a solid metal ring inside the ex.nut, and at the end connecting to the muffler , there was 1 solid ring and 1 split ring. Gaskets I got were square in cross section and made of some fiber material. So, this makes me kinda wonder, how should these be put together to get things stay put and stay tight?
  16. Found this useful PDF: http://goodkarmaproductions.com/HTML/PDF/Part_11-_Mikuni_Carburetor.pdf
  17. thanks, guess I'll see in a couple weeks how things fits
  18. ... realised I'd forgotten to order carb adapters/boots to put the mikuni om my MT16. Anyone recall the bolt c-c for the bolts mounting the carbs to the heads? (I'm 1000 miles away from the bike at the moment..) I'll check with holopaw what they got for boots.
  19. was more directed at Serious Black, as he has hands-on experience with these (although on a flathead from what I undestand)
  20. thanks.. any idea on which range of main jets to start with? (same seller sells packs of 10 jets for not many bucks)
  21. these should work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIKUNI-Model-VM24-ROUND-SLIDE-DIRT-BIKE-CARBURETOR-HONDA-CRF50-ATV-TTR125-/321630395297?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae2aa5ba1&vxp=mtr
  22. thanks, I found some posts describing the procedure and to do it "by ear"
  23. newer got my MT-16 to charge the battery, so I pulled the alternator to see if I could find anything wrong, well, the key on the shaft were missing, so the gear just spun on the shaft. Both the gear and shaft were well-worn, at least .04" clearance Now, got a new alternator + gear. Never received the woodruf key, but then I decided to try to file my own. Took me less than 10 minutes I hope mild steel is ok to use here in this application? Now, time to mount it - are there a recommended procedure to install it so I get a decent clearance/gear mesh ? (I've liberally coated the teeth on the new gear in Molybdenium grease - can't hurt)
  • Create New...