Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About osro

  • Birthday 08/08/1982

Contact Methods

  • AIM

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Interests
    software development, russian motorcycles, guns, hunting, cooking, eating, women

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    '71 Dnepr MB-650

osro's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. We Tried to fire up Svetlana (MB-650) for the first time and weren't able to get anything out of the engine, except at one point we had fire coming out of the intake on the carbs. We set up everything according to the manual, and we're in the process of troubleshooting what the problem is, and I wanted to ask y'all: do you use the settings detailed in the "manual" for the ignition timing, or is there something else we should be trying? With the "P" mark in the engine case window we've got it so that the test light comes on only at the moment of maximum separation of the ignition weights (as per the manual) and we're still getting nothing. This is coming off of a full 3.5 year long engine rebuild, so while everything is clean and looks good, its important to note that we're not coming from the perspective of adjusting the ignition on a bike that was running 2 weeks ago.
  2. After a 3 year long full engine rebuild I'm ready to put the engine back in Svetlana (MB-650)! The only problem is: I'm not sure how to properly mount the engine on the frame... Let me be more specific, I've got the 2 engine mounting rods that mount the engine onto the frame, and I've got two bushings that came with the bike, but I'm not sure what to do with the bushings and my dumbass forgot to take note of how they came off the bike. More details: I can fit one bushing on the front rod and one bushing on the rear rod at the same time, but cannot fit both bushings onto a single rod at the same time. When I have one bushing on each rod, there is still a troubling amount of play between the engine and the frame. My question: Since I have the ability to machine new bushings of any size, could someone please tell me the optimum way to mount the engine onto the frame? Should I have it centered on the frame, all the way to one side of the frame, would it be better to take the final drive shaft into consideration and attempt to machine a set of bushings that creates the straightest line possible down that axis, or perhaps its something entirely different I haven't thought of. My apologies if this has been answered ad nauseum, but my searches for this information were fruitless. Also, thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide, and I'm wildly excited to be a part of this community again!!
  3. So, here's what we ended up doing: We used a distance gauge and a timing wheel to identify and mark TDC on the crank. Then using the distance gauage, with the timing wheel for a referece, we tracked cam movement while the crank rotated with respect to TDC. We compared the observed cam movement to the manaul, which says the Ignition duration starts at 6 degrees after TDC and ends 34 degrees after BDC and exhaust duration starts 34 degrees before BDC and ends 6 degrees before TDC. Using the woodruff key hole positions of the crank and camshaft we were able to start off with the gears only out of alignment by 1 tooth and then using the method above on two different gear orientations we were able to (hopefully) identify the right orientation.
  4. I'm reassembling my engine and the crank gear isn't marked as per my expectations and what I've seen on the internet. What I"m expecting is a solid line stamped into the cam gear that intersects with the crank gear thus allowing me to line the two gears up. What I'm seeing is a solid line stamped into my cam gear and a single circular dot imprinted on my crank gear. Obviously I'm dealing with some sort of frankenstein setup, but does anyone have any advice on the proper way to mate these gears? note: I am not confident that they were properly mated in the first place so putting it back together the way I found it isn't necessarily going to be the solution.
  5. I recently had my mechanic convert Svetlana BACK to points ignition, and she ran GREAT for about 15 miles. Then she lost about 95% ability to generate power and would violently pop out of the inboard cylinder. I cleaned the carbs, and through trial and error finally identified the problem as my ignition setting. I've adjusted the ignition several times, but every time I adjust the ignition I get about 100 yards away from my house and the inability to generate power problem comes back. When I get back to my house and readjust the ignition, it ends up in a noticeably different position than it was previously. I'm no expert, but I feel like whatever part attaches to the cam (dog?) might be loose and starts to shift when I drive. Does that make sense? Is that even possible? I checked the one bolt in the center and that is very tight. Before I start dismantling the ignition, do you guys have any advice on what else I could check first? If I do need to pull it off, what do I need to tighten? I looked at a schematic of the points ignition and I have no freaking clue how that darn thing even mounts to the cam. There appears to be a sleeve that goes over the cam and then that one bolt in the center, but what on Earth does the bolt thread in to? I've got an old cam that I've been looking at for reference and I can't make heads or tails of anything :/ On the plus side she starts up immediately and idles nicely, so at least she has upgraded her status from "garage art" to "noisey garage art".
  6. So, I'm not sure of the right geometry words to use here, and if I did you guys might not know what I was talking about :) Anyway, when my drive shaft spins, it doesn't stay on a fixed plane- it spins in what I only know how to describe as a small circular pattern. Is that normal? Is there an acceptable tolerance for this? Does this make any freakin sense?? :beer!:
  7. I wasn't getting enough action from my Russian bride, so I started seeing a hot German cougar on the side. Her name is Verena and she's a '77 BMW R75/7 with about 100k miles. I'm the 3rd owner and she's in perfect condition. You can see my Russian bride Svetlana in the background of one of the pictures.
  8. Despite having checked 3 times, I had the brakes messed up. It spins freely now, sorry for wasting your time!
  9. After waiting for almost 3 months to get some new elastic couplings in I finally was able to get the final drive back on, EXCEPT NOW the rear wheel is very difficult to spin. So here are the details: The transmission by itself is easy to spin With the final drive mounted, the final drive and transmission spin easily With the axle through the final drive (no wheel attached) the final drive/tranny still spin freely When the wheel is on the axle by itself, (just wheel + axle held up with both hands using my foot to spin) the wheel spins great When the wheel is mounted onto the final drive (with no axle) it spins freely When the wheel, final drive, and axle are put together its a bitch to spin (the rear brake is fully loosened) It takes a fair amount of force to get the axle through the final drive when the wheel is mounted The final drive wasn't giving me any problems (I'm aware of) when I took her off. I made sure to drain her before dropping her and she's been sitting under a desk in a trash bag since then. I had my final drive rebuilt by Cold War Trophies one year ago, so it should be in good order Any ideas? I've put fresh oil in both the final drive and the tranny. Also, I've destroyed 2 of the rubber couplers in pretty short order (<500km each), is it possible thats a symptom of a failing final drive? As always any help is always appreciated. Osro p.s. I really appreciate the help you guys give me, I know I don't have much to offer and several times a year I show up with nothing but problems, but if I knew more I'd help more. If any of y'all are ever in Houston, beers and steaks are on me!
  10. Long story short: The metal band on my original elastic coupler broke last year in September, I got it replaced and the bike running again in December. Then the rubber on the elastic coupler failed in March. I replaced that one and now less than 500KM later the rubber on my 3rd elastic coupler is failing!!! WHAT THE S*&T IS GOING ON HERE? As per prior recommendations, before putting the newest coupler on I made sure to set the lash between the face of the coupler and the face of the drive shaft coupling to 3mm. Other than pull the FD and put a new coupler on there, I've got no freakin clue what else to change, any suggestions?
  11. I adjusted the valves and now she starts on the first kick, but she doesn't run well at all. I think I'm headed in the right direction, thanks guys!
  12. I live in Houston, and the battery spent some time in the heat last summer, but no real cold this last winter. The gas is maybe 3 weeks old. I pulled the plugs and they're pretty black, but I cleaned them up and verified that they're still sparking...
  13. Hey y'all, my MB-650 has been progressively harder to start lately. About 5 months ago she'd start up on the first kick every time, then it was the first 3 kicks, then it was the first 5, etc... Anyway, last night I couldn't get her started at all so I charged her battery all night (just so we could rule that one out). This morning the battery was looking good, so I went to start her, and she started after the 2nd kick. She proceeded to idle poorly for about 2 minutes and then just died, and now I can't get her to start back up at all. Not sure if it matters, but this battery is about a year old and has been deep cycled at least once. Any advice y'all can offer on troubleshooting these starting problems would be greatly appreciated. Osro :beer!:
  14. All I can tell you about the origin is that I bought mine from old timer garage in Poland and the metal ring is painted black... Can anyone recommend a good place to get a replacement, or better yet does anybody have some of these lying around they'd like to sell me? What he says! couplers do seem to last longer if lubricated with a sticky , non rubber damaging lube such as chain spray. i've got 70,000k on one of mine powered by BMWr80 and it still looks ok.
  15. in January I had my transmission rebuilt and at that time I replaced the elastic coupling that joins the transmission and the final drive. When putting the coupler on I checked the lash and made sure it was at 3mm. I've probably put about 500km on the bike since then and I just noticed that the elastic coupling already looks like its starting to fail. There are rubber shavings on the frame and it looks like the rubber part of the coupling is starting to split. So since you all have been historically amazing I was hoping I could get some feedback on the following points: Whats the normal life span of the rubber coupler? When they fail in this manner, is it generally due to one reason?
  • Create New...