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Everything posted by z400d3

  1. I have a 1970's M66 frame with a plate on the headstock showing the frame number and have been trying to locate where the frame number would be stamped on the frame On my M67 the frame number is stamped on the front down tube but a bit of googling indicates that the M66 frame number should be on top of the shock mount ? If anyone has a picture of an M66 frame showing where the frame number is stamped that they would be prepared to share that would be very much appreciated
  2. I was looking for something that would make installing the bearing races a little easier and provide less risk of damaging them, I came up with this ...... I bought a 33mm deep reach impact socket from ebay and worked the side wall thickness down on the belt sander until it would slide nicely into the hub https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-Drive-33mm-DEEP-IMPACT-SOCKET-12-Point-Bi-Hex-Design-by-NEILSEN-TOOLS/253241034169?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Works a treat ....
  3. A visual explanation that confirms the orientation of the spacer makes no difference at all as it's just a spacer with a dividng washer ,the collar I could see was was just the fold ...
  4. Thanks for the responses ... much appreciated It does appear that the spacer can go either way around During my research I came accross some instructive videos on Youtube ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVgDG3oA04s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zINkpA6vcEA This one gives a detailed description of the orientation of the various parts at about 4 minutes and 25 seconds in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7ukRQiE904 The audio is Russian but you can enable "ropey" subtitles in english by using this method ... On the lower bar on the right hand side of the Youtube video 1. Click on "subtitles/closed captions" to turn on subtitles 2. Then click on the "settings" icon to the right of the "subtitles/closed captions" and click on "subtitles/cc" 3. Click on "Autotranslate" 4. Click on the language you wish to translate to
  5. Thanks Scott I had the same thoughts myself, couldn't think of a reason why one way around was better than another but thought it best to ask the experts 🙂
  6. Close up of the spacer with the shoulder highlighted by the red circle
  7. I have also seen a You Tube video showing it this way around https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSQif7ueUvo&t=119s
  8. I have a question around the orientation of the spacer that fits between the bearings The spacer has a shoulder on one side and I keep seeing mention of it being important that it's installed the correct way around but no mention as to which way is the correct way The manual doesn't show a shoulder at all so not much help there and I've been searching the web but no luck with a conclusive find On the exellent "My Ural" site there is a picture that appears to show the shoulder nearest the threaded part of the spindle prior to insallation http://myural.com/Wheel Bearing Service or Replacement 033_small.jpg When I stripped my wheel down the shoulder was facing the opposite way One wheel bearing was collapsed so of course that could be why ? Any help clarifying the orientation of the spacer would be appreciated
  9. Some very interesting information in the feedback which is appreciated ... Thanks Gents The sovek unit turned out to be faulty, a replacement is on the way but in the meantime, the points with a jap condenser are working just fine I have ordered a Thorcap condenser (mentioned on SS) and will report back once I've had a chance to test it out
  10. Quick Update .... I got fed up trying to get the Sovek unit working so went back to the points set up After reading a few other posts I thought I would try fitting a condensor from a Jap bike, after doing that and cleaning the points after filing them flat she produced a nice bright spark ! Started her a few times at diferent temperatures and it all seems good so far I'll keep you all updated ! I think you may well be right about my Sovek unit Rod !
  11. This has always been a "hobby bike" to me, I have other bikes, so I've had a "take or leave it" attitude to it previously but want to get to the bottom of the issue as I really love the bike I've owned and maintained my own and friends bikes for more than 40 years now and have worked on most makes and models from "points and kickstart" technology through to the more modern machines but I've got a strange one with my 95 Ural 650 (Neval Soviet Knight) that's got me stumped The bike has always been a right mare to start and has become know amongst my friends as the "Ten Kick Cossack" as it takes at least 10 kicks to start it, so many that I have bent both the centre and side stands a few times from my efforts A little background :…. I bought the bike from a chap who had left it lying in a hedge half way up a welsh mountain for a couple of years as I have always loved anything Russian, like a challenge and thought it had potential The right cylinder was full of water, which I drained with a syringe and left it to dry in the back of the garage for a full summer I assumed that I would need to rebuild at least that cylinder, but one day I thought I would try a compression test and see how it looked, the test was pretty good, equal-ish on both sides so I cleaned out the carbs, checked for spark and gave her a few kicks She did eventually fire up and although there was a little knocking from the right cylinder, ran quite well. The clutch wasn't operating and the gearbox was full of water but that was what you would expect from languishing in a hedge. After stripping out the clutch, changing out all the fluids etc I spent some time on her repainting and the usual restorative work, took her for an MOT which she passed so decided to run her locally for a while and see how it goes. I have done about 1500 miles on her since then and this problem has persisted throughout that time A summary of the issue .... The bike has always been difficult to start no matter what the engine temperature, she even fails from a bump start when being stubborn, but once started has never stopped or misfired etc, she also idles pretty well, never cutting out on me The most consistent way to start the bike has always been to turn in the idle screws an additional full turn, use choke and tickle if she's cold then kick, kick, kick and keep kicking until she fires or exhaustion sets in, then turn the idles back down I always assumed it was a fuel issue and blamed the K65 carbs that came with her so eventually bought a set of K68's which didn't improve the situation. On closer inspection I noticed the spark would sometimes be intermittent but as it's difficult to check the spark and kick at the same time due to the location of the kickstart I could never be sure, I always thought it was a weak spark though (but have seen worse running) The previous owner told me that it was electronic ignition but during the lockdown I have revisited the issue and found that it is actually running points. I have bought and fitted a Sovek electronic ignition module, the type with the magnetic pickup, new coil, HT leads, plug caps and spark plugs. I have also installed several additional earths between the engine and frame as there was only the one that bolts to the top of the engine, hoping that this may improve things I have bypassed the kill switch by powering the coil and module straight from the battery positive via a new lead to take a wiring issue out of the equation If I unbolt the rotor from the camshaft and spin it by hand a nice spark is visible at the spark plug each time one of the firing points passes the sensor, even if I turn it really slowly, this is consistent and I have not seen it fail to spark this way When I bolt the rotor back onto the camshaft and use the kickstart to turn the rotor, the spark is very intermittent, but good when it does spark, so no change between the standard points setup and the complete new ignition system ! I really am baffled now so if anyone of you very knowledgeable people can offer any advice it would be very much appreciated
  12. I have been wrestling with getting these carbs to fit the manifolds I have but the size diference between the manifold (35mm) and the BMW (43mm) rubber manifold is to great I need a set of manifolds that will fit the Ural 650 heads and be close enough to the 43mm diameter of the Bing carbs (64/32/302) Where did you get your manifolds from, they llok just the job ?
  13. I have measured the outer diameter of my Bing (64/32/302) carbs and they are 43mm http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee512/z400d3/Bing%20Carbs%20for%20Ural/20140103_125208_zpsommkcb8c.jpg I have adaptors/manifolds for a set of Dellorto carbs which have an outer diameter of 35mm, so I suppose all I need is a set of rubbers to step up from 35mm to 43mm ? http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee512/z400d3/Bing%20Carbs%20for%20Ural/20140103_125036_zpszt2cless.jpg The Bing actually fits over the adaptor/manifold, showing the size difference http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee512/z400d3/Bing%20Carbs%20for%20Ural/20140103_125243_zpsbdn98vxe.jpg Also, found this which may be of interest ... A guide on servicing the Bing carbs http://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/bmw-r75-5-bing-carburetor-rebuild/#Add_Optional_Carburetor_Internal_Spring
  14. I am looking to fit a set of Bing carbs (64/32/302) that I sourced from a scrap BMW to my 650 Ural so am finding this post an exellent source of info If I buy the manifolds mentioned (http://www.ebay.co.u...M-/140914241793), I will still need the rubber adaptors and a set of throttle and choke cables. If anyone knows of a supplier for all or any of these items please let me know
  15. I am looking for a replacement set of silencers for a 1997 Neval Soviet Knight They sweep up and back towards the swingarm slightly and attach to a twin bolt bracket just under the rear footrest If anyone has a decent pair or knows of a supplier in the UK or abroad please pass on the details I have attached a couple of pictures to give you an idea of their design... Also looking for a set of side panels for the same bike
  16. I did manage to get a set of seals on Ebay after, but as mine don't have any felt in them I wasn't sure where the felt went I stripped and cleaned the forks (previous owner had her standing outside for a few years) and they seemed to be pretty free but I did notice that when I refitted the seals everything seemed to stiffen up as if the seals had gone hard and were restricting things I thought they would sort themselves out after a little while on the raod but they are still stiff so I am going to have to fit the new ones Any advice on where the felt goes would be appreciated
  17. All sorted guys A new set of plugs and she fired up first kick even though the old ones we sparking fine, stuck the old ones back in when the engine warmed up but still no joy How embarrassing ! I am still very interested in fitting more reliable carbs though so welcome any input on that
  18. I have a set of K65 carbs fitted to my Ural 650 motor (Neval Soviet Knight) but they are giving me problems I fitted new full service kits when I first got the bike and she fired up and seemed to run well although I hadn't got around to balancing them The last she ran a slight miss did start but she was still starting fine, now she won't fire at all and the plugs aren't getting wet, either plug There is plenty of fuel in the float bowls and the fuel pipes are full, tried a bump as well but not even a backfire I am seriously looking at replacing the carbs with something else and was wondering if anyone has tried alternatives Any suggestions would be appreciated
  19. I am looking for a pair of side panels for my Soviet Knight If anyone has any for sale or knows where I can get a new set please let me know (Not sure if any Ural side panels will fit)
  20. I need to strip down the forks on my 1994 Soviet Knight as one is very stiff (The bike had been left out in a field for a few years by the previous owner) The only set of seals I can find is on F2's site (£60.00) Any help or advice on the strip down procedure and/or reasonably priced quality seals would be great P.S. I have a good bit of experience with Jap bike forks but never worked on russian machines
  21. I have a 1994 Soviet Knight solo which has the 650 Ural engine fitted but the clutch won't engage I bought the bike off a chap who had left it in a field for a few years, got everything else cleaned up and working but the clutch refuses to engage Tried running it up and down the road with the level pulled in and going through the gears but no joy Looks like I am going to have to strip the clutch as the plates are probably stuck together, the rest of the bike was water logged so I expect the clutch plates are as well I have had a look at the Ural videos on youtube and the myural website which have given me some idea of the procedure, looks like I am going to need a clutch alignment tool and have to remove the engine from the frame ? If anyone has any tips I would be grateful .. Cheers .. Chris
  22. I am looking for a set of side panels for a 1994 Neval Soviet Knight If anyone has a set, or even one, drop me a note plz
  23. I have had a look for this issue in the posts and came accross a post by oldskoolconservative which just about covers my problem I have an oil leak coming from the output shaft of the gearbox (about two drips on the garage floor overnight) My question is .. do you have to take the engine and gearbox out to change this seal ?
  24. Hi Martyn,

    Pembrokeshire, West Wales

    Lovely beaches :)

  25. I am looking for a used UK spec (Left side fitting) sidecar for my 1994 650 Ural Not really worried about age or condition as I can sort any repairs or fabrication If anyone in the UK can help me out I would be grateful
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