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arbalest

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Everything posted by arbalest

  1. Anyone have a Dnepr frame in the Northeast?
  2. The motor is WAAAY better than ANY OHV Dnepr motor. Electric start with over running clutch ( can't hurt anything by hitting the start button with the engine running). The Dnepr transmission is better, but the whole thing bolts in. Using the Dnepr transmission means no driveshaft issues. You just need to find a button for the starter.
  3. A friend had an unfortunate encounter with a large rock in a construction zone. Saved his leg. Destroyed the leg shield. Anyone here have a spare set for reasonable money? Thanks, Mike
  4. OK. I have not been around for a while, but here is my take....from experience. A well used BMW airhead motor is FAR better than any new or rebuilt Ural or Dnepr motor. The BMW airhead is rated for continuous duty at 7,000 RPM. Try that with your Ural or Dnepr. I had an 83 2wd Dnepr with 2500 miles on it when I bought it. I had it in that configuration for three summers. I managed to put an additional 1200 miles on it in those three years. Keeping it running cost me about $4 a mile. I finally had enough and pulled the Dnepr engine and put in an R80 motor. I rode the wheels off it for the next three years and sold it (been kicking myself ever since). The bike eventually found its way to Chris Harris, who sold it to Van (Gobium on S.S.). I never had any problems with the Dnepr frame or running gear. Final drive held up fine, no transmission problems, no 2wd problems. The worst part of a BMW/Dnepr conversion is BMW oil filter changes after the conversion. If I had to do over again, I would do it again. I did one of the first BW/Dnepr conversions in the country. Lloyd Loundsbury did several different kids of conversions, but not BMW's. I bought my conversion parts from a guy in Canada (and paid WAAY too much for them), who went back to Germany shortly after my conversion. I have provided parts and advice to several others. The latest being Mainiac on S.S. He converted a 97 Ural to BMW power. Drop him a note an ask him how he likes his conversion. He has been riding the wheels off the thing. He also converted his Ural mechanical DRUM front brake to hydraulic. Drop him a note. He's a nice guy. Bural can also help. He has a number of conversions on the road.
  5. Red_Beard, don't let the naysayers get to you. Lloyd Loundsbury(sp.?) sold Dneprs in the US under the name RAM. He built several specials trying to find a better way. One of the specials he built used VW cylinders and had hydraulic lifters. I see that the VW cylinders are designed or a 69mm stroke. You would just need to make your connecting rods a millimeter longer. Please keep us posted your progress.
  6. I just was on S.S....no problems. I think the moderator is having some health issues.
  7. Don't believe everything you hear about Chang Jiangs. I live down the road from a friend who has been driving a CJ all year, every year, Summer and Winter for the last 13 years, in Maine. He hangs out with a bunch of crazy people that ride that Russian (as opposed to Ukrainian) bike brand. It is a flathead that will run 60 MILES per hour for hours (with my fat ass in the sidecar), and not overheat. You just have to know how to build them. He Does. arbalest
  8. If the Chang is built properly it will be as reliable as any Russian rig. If you want first hand information, contact Immulmen over on Soviet Steeds and ask him about his experiences. He has been riding a flathead Chang rig for ten years, year round, here in Maine. His rig, with a passenger in the chair, will run 60 MILES per hour, all day, without overheating. He rides frequently with the local Ural crowd and has no problem keeping up. He has even done a couple of winter campouts with the 2wd guys.Drop him a note.
  9. Becky, Way back when, there were photos of the rig in the gallery. any chance you could find those? aralest
  10. Depending on the year, watch out for soft cams and poor machining of the heads. I had a 1983 OHV Dnepr. The valve spring seats were not machined concentric to the valve guides, and the rocker arm geometry was bad. With the lash caps on the valve stems, the rockerarms would go over center in their travel, putting a sideload on the valve stem in the valve guide. I had several valve stem seizures in the valve guides, before I discovered the problem. arbalest
  11. Anyone here been around the forum long enough to remember the member who put a complete Goldwing drivetrain into a Dnepr? Do you have the post numbers for the conversation? Any Idea how to resurrect the thread or retrieve the photos? arbalest
  12. I'm looking for a bad U-joint with good splines on the driveshaft side (just want the spline), and a bad (bent or broken?) coarse spline drive shaft (just want the spline and a couple inches of shaft). I am working on a sidecar project and need these items to complete the steering assembly. I am willing to pay a reasonable fee for someone else's junk. Anyone out there have what I need? arbalest
  13. A real interesting mod would be to change out the motor. Get a M1M Chang motor. Three immediate advantages (other than the totally cool look, plus it would REALLLLY ###### off the purists), 1. it's a bolt in swap, 2. it's electric start (12v a bonus), 3. You get a good 280W alternator that is WAAAY better than the wimpy BMW generator. A good running Chang flathead is a joy. Horsepower is about equal.
  14. Barb, The Dneprmatic refers to the Dnepr transmission. It has a mechanism that allows shifting without using the hand clutch lever. Without insulting the many Ural drivers, I personally think the Dnepr is a better looking motorcycle than a Ural. It is also a little more robust. I hope you are able to get your husband to get his hands dirty on a motorcycle sooner rather than later. arbalest
  15. DneprJohn Read this part again; My local engine builder(automotive) was kind enough to find a non- Russian replacement valve spring that matched the length and strength of the Russian springs(about .060" longer than the Russian spring to make up for the missing fiber washer). The spring is a little smaller in diameter. He also found new upper and lower spring seats, to match the new springs. When we tried to install the new lower spring seats, we discovered that the pockets for the springs were not milled concentric to the valve stem. The engine builder fixed that problem. The Mazda springs are of similar strength as the Russian springs. The Russian VALVE SEATS are not bronze. They are cast iron or some other relatively hard steel. The VALVE GUIDES are bronze.
  16. Hello, all. I found my original posts about my Dnepr valve train problems. I had actually found a solution, but the subsequent failure caused me to just park the bike, pull the motor and put a BMW motor in its place. After about a year, I finally looked at the Dnepr motor. The failure was a dropped valve guide, due to a cracked head, caused by the engine builder using a too tight press fit for the guide. What follows is my original post with all the appropriate part numbers required to replace the Dnepr poorly executed valve train, with domestically available parts. What is not in the post, is info on mods to the valve guides. I read somewhere a posting by a motorcycle engine builder, that bronze valve guides should only be used in racing engines. He said that street motors shoud have cast iron guides, due to the built in lubricity of the cast iron. With that in mind, I replaced the bronze Dnepr guides, with cast iron Sportster guides. I think I had to have the guides modified, but I don't remember (the following post is from 2003). I will check my drawings to see if I have drawing of the valve guide modification. I hope this information is useful to someone here. A refresher for those who who are new to the forum. It appears that the Russian valve springs are made from "music wire". There is nothing inherently wrong with that. That is 1940's state of the art. BUT, as a result, in our motors, that run hot to begin with, music wire is not the best choice. Elevated temperatures cause the springs to go soft. To alleviate the problem, the Russians put an insulating FIBER washer under the valve spring to keep the heat from transferring to the spring. How long do you think a valve adjustment will hold with a soft fiber washer(soft compared to steel) under the valve spring? It's no wonder our motors need frequent valve adjustments. My problems started with sticking valves, causing one rocker arm to break(right side intake) and a few hundred miles later, a pushrod to bend(left side exhaust). After replacing the offending pieces, and putting in fresh oil, I had three hundred miles of relative trouble free driving. Before heading off on a 200 mile (round trip)ride, I decided to check the valves. Guess what I found? Valve springs you could squash with your fingers(left side intake) and many many shiny bits in the bottom of the valve cover. Investigation showed that the fiber washer under the valve spring had totally disintegrated, allowing heat to soften the valve springs, and the subsequent hammering, due to the, now, additional .100" freespace under the valve, broke the retainer into tiny little pieces. I decided to replace all the Russian bits in the heads with items manufactured where quality control is not an oxymoron. If you look at the heel of the rocker arm, the contact point on the lash cap is at the very edge. The surface of the lash cap is larger in diameter than the valve stem. At the start of valve opening, the force of the rocker arm is not in line with valve stem. At full lift the rocker arm contact point is not past center of the lash cap surface. For the whole stroke of the rocker arm/valve assembly, there is a considerable side load on the valve stem. I suspect this was the primary cause of my sticky valves. The remedy is fairly straightforward. If the valve stem is a little shorter, the heel of the rocker arm will be over the valve stem. If you replace the Russian valve with a good valve with a hardened tip, you can do away with the lash cap. I ordered custom MANLEY valves with hardened tips. The valve is .085" shorter than the Russian valve with lash cap. The other advantage to replacing the valves, is you can use better domestic keepers. My local engine builder(automotive) was kind enough to find a non- Russian replacement valve spring that matched the length and strength of the Russian springs(about .060" longer than the Russian spring-to make up for the missing fiber washer). The spring is a little smaller in diameter. He also found new upper and lower spring seats, to match the new springs. When we tried to install the new lower spring seats, we discovered that the pockets for the springs were not milled concentric to the valve stem. The engine builder fixed that problem. With the new valves, springs, etc., the rocker arm geometry is now much better. The rocker arm works directly on the valve stem, so the force is always ON the valve stem. These changes require a little bit longer pushrod (about .050"). I am replacing the pushrods with one piece chrome-moly rods with swaged ends. I have not purchased those yet. They will be ordered after the heads have been fit up and the actual length required determined. My heads are going back together today or tomrrow. Here is a summary of the parts, part numbers and/or application for the replacement parts VALVES Intake - head dia. 1.580"; stem dia. 8mm; length 3.575 MANLEY p/n 11210-1 Exhaust - head dia. 1.450"; stem dia. 8mm; length 3.575 MANLEY p/n 11211-1 SPRING SEATS AND KEEPERS lower - MANLEY p/n 42142 upper - Ford 2.9L V6 keepers - SBI INC. 121-1011(Ford 2.9L V6) VALVE SPRINGS(SINGLE SPRING) PIONEER p/n RV1367(77-85 Mazda 1.5L) You could replace your Russian springs with the Mazda springs by just turning down the shoulder of the upper spring seat, if you did not want to replace everything. I will let you know how things hold up. I have a couple of fairly long rides I would like to take this season.
  17. John, get in touch with Chris Jordan and ask him about his experience with the Chang alternators. They are nowhere near as bad as folks would have you believe. If you have an electric motor repair shop nearby, you can just get the rotor coated in glyptal. If there is a weak spot in the Chang electrical system, it is with the diode board. The beauty of it though, is that you can use a BMW diode board. Mike I was looking into that- the only thing the guys on the chang board would tell me is that the alternators are crap and need rewinding. I can't really do blueprinting myself, would have to have someone do it. From what I understand, they are smooth motors with alot of torque. If I go with the Ural transmission, I will still have E-start, and the heel-toe shifter is more comfy. One of the big reasons I was looking into the Ural engine is that I plan to take more camping trips with my family, which means hauling more gear, and going sometimes far from home. There are Ural dealers in just about every state, and the Ural 750 is currently being made, so I don't have to have a stockpile of parts. Some Ural dealers will work on Dneprs and Changs, but most would rather not. Plus, I can have one installed, which means I don't have to alter the wiring myself.
  18. Cowgirl, I don't know if if there are pictures. Big Bill (local Ural Dealer) did the repairs, maybe he has some. Mike
  19. A friend was driving his Ural on a country road at country road speeds. He reached for a pack of cigarettes in the hack and rear ended a Ford Focus. The Focus was totalled, friend spent several weeks in the hospital. Ural tub was dinged up and the sidecar frame was bent. Friend is out of the hospital, Ural is fixed, Focus has most likely been turned into Budweiser cans.
  20. John, You might want to contact immulmen, anyway. The same things that make a flathead Chang go well, will make a Dnepr flathead go well. Mike Lydon
  21. Forgot to mention, get some three ring pistons. Mike
  22. Get a flathed CJ M1M motor. Put your cylinders and heads on it. 12v, electric start. Nice motor. A friend has built two flathead Chang motors that will pull a rig around at 60 MILES per hour, all day long without overheating. Don't believe folks who tell you the Chang motors are junk. They just need careful assembly with attention paid to proper clearances. For more info on how to build a good Chang motor, email immulmen@yahoo.com. Mike Lydon
  23. John, The Ural 750 motor will work, bur you will lose electric start. If you can find a ohv Chang motor, that would give you the best of both worlds. You get the power of the URAL 750, electric start, and an alternator that won't grenade. You may have to do some blueprinting of the Chang motor, but the end result is way cheaper than the Ural motor. If you want info from someone who has a couple of these under his belt, email immulmen@yahoo.com. Mike Lydon
  24. Becky, I am looking for some old posts of mine, detailing what parts and specific modifications were made to my original Dnepr motor. I replaced all the valve gear, valves guides, springs, spring seats, retainers, and pushrods. I was hoping that information was not lost. Oh, well. Thanks, Mike Lydon
  25. Can we still search posts from the old board? There is some information there I would like to retrieve. The info is in posts somewhere around the 2700 post. Thanks, Arbalest
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