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  • My Bike(s)
    1983 BMW/Dnepr conversion 2wd - sold
  • My Story
    The Dnepr was my introduction to sidecars. I still dabble in Urals and Dneprs. Currently installing a 650 Ural motor into a friend's Dnepr

arbalest's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. Anyone have a Dnepr frame in the Northeast?
  2. The motor is WAAAY better than ANY OHV Dnepr motor. Electric start with over running clutch ( can't hurt anything by hitting the start button with the engine running). The Dnepr transmission is better, but the whole thing bolts in. Using the Dnepr transmission means no driveshaft issues. You just need to find a button for the starter.
  3. A friend had an unfortunate encounter with a large rock in a construction zone. Saved his leg. Destroyed the leg shield. Anyone here have a spare set for reasonable money? Thanks, Mike
  4. OK. I have not been around for a while, but here is my take....from experience. A well used BMW airhead motor is FAR better than any new or rebuilt Ural or Dnepr motor. The BMW airhead is rated for continuous duty at 7,000 RPM. Try that with your Ural or Dnepr. I had an 83 2wd Dnepr with 2500 miles on it when I bought it. I had it in that configuration for three summers. I managed to put an additional 1200 miles on it in those three years. Keeping it running cost me about $4 a mile. I finally had enough and pulled the Dnepr engine and put in an R80 motor. I rode the wheels off it for the next three years and sold it (been kicking myself ever since). The bike eventually found its way to Chris Harris, who sold it to Van (Gobium on S.S.). I never had any problems with the Dnepr frame or running gear. Final drive held up fine, no transmission problems, no 2wd problems. The worst part of a BMW/Dnepr conversion is BMW oil filter changes after the conversion. If I had to do over again, I would do it again. I did one of the first BW/Dnepr conversions in the country. Lloyd Loundsbury did several different kids of conversions, but not BMW's. I bought my conversion parts from a guy in Canada (and paid WAAY too much for them), who went back to Germany shortly after my conversion. I have provided parts and advice to several others. The latest being Mainiac on S.S. He converted a 97 Ural to BMW power. Drop him a note an ask him how he likes his conversion. He has been riding the wheels off the thing. He also converted his Ural mechanical DRUM front brake to hydraulic. Drop him a note. He's a nice guy. Bural can also help. He has a number of conversions on the road.
  5. Red_Beard, don't let the naysayers get to you. Lloyd Loundsbury(sp.?) sold Dneprs in the US under the name RAM. He built several specials trying to find a better way. One of the specials he built used VW cylinders and had hydraulic lifters. I see that the VW cylinders are designed or a 69mm stroke. You would just need to make your connecting rods a millimeter longer. Please keep us posted your progress.
  6. I just was on S.S....no problems. I think the moderator is having some health issues.
  7. Don't believe everything you hear about Chang Jiangs. I live down the road from a friend who has been driving a CJ all year, every year, Summer and Winter for the last 13 years, in Maine. He hangs out with a bunch of crazy people that ride that Russian (as opposed to Ukrainian) bike brand. It is a flathead that will run 60 MILES per hour for hours (with my fat ass in the sidecar), and not overheat. You just have to know how to build them. He Does. arbalest
  8. If the Chang is built properly it will be as reliable as any Russian rig. If you want first hand information, contact Immulmen over on Soviet Steeds and ask him about his experiences. He has been riding a flathead Chang rig for ten years, year round, here in Maine. His rig, with a passenger in the chair, will run 60 MILES per hour, all day, without overheating. He rides frequently with the local Ural crowd and has no problem keeping up. He has even done a couple of winter campouts with the 2wd guys.Drop him a note.
  9. Becky, Way back when, there were photos of the rig in the gallery. any chance you could find those? aralest
  10. Depending on the year, watch out for soft cams and poor machining of the heads. I had a 1983 OHV Dnepr. The valve spring seats were not machined concentric to the valve guides, and the rocker arm geometry was bad. With the lash caps on the valve stems, the rockerarms would go over center in their travel, putting a sideload on the valve stem in the valve guide. I had several valve stem seizures in the valve guides, before I discovered the problem. arbalest
  11. Anyone here been around the forum long enough to remember the member who put a complete Goldwing drivetrain into a Dnepr? Do you have the post numbers for the conversation? Any Idea how to resurrect the thread or retrieve the photos? arbalest
  12. I'm looking for a bad U-joint with good splines on the driveshaft side (just want the spline), and a bad (bent or broken?) coarse spline drive shaft (just want the spline and a couple inches of shaft). I am working on a sidecar project and need these items to complete the steering assembly. I am willing to pay a reasonable fee for someone else's junk. Anyone out there have what I need? arbalest
  13. A real interesting mod would be to change out the motor. Get a M1M Chang motor. Three immediate advantages (other than the totally cool look, plus it would REALLLLY ###### off the purists), 1. it's a bolt in swap, 2. it's electric start (12v a bonus), 3. You get a good 280W alternator that is WAAAY better than the wimpy BMW generator. A good running Chang flathead is a joy. Horsepower is about equal.
  14. Barb, The Dneprmatic refers to the Dnepr transmission. It has a mechanism that allows shifting without using the hand clutch lever. Without insulting the many Ural drivers, I personally think the Dnepr is a better looking motorcycle than a Ural. It is also a little more robust. I hope you are able to get your husband to get his hands dirty on a motorcycle sooner rather than later. arbalest
  15. DneprJohn Read this part again; My local engine builder(automotive) was kind enough to find a non- Russian replacement valve spring that matched the length and strength of the Russian springs(about .060" longer than the Russian spring to make up for the missing fiber washer). The spring is a little smaller in diameter. He also found new upper and lower spring seats, to match the new springs. When we tried to install the new lower spring seats, we discovered that the pockets for the springs were not milled concentric to the valve stem. The engine builder fixed that problem. The Mazda springs are of similar strength as the Russian springs. The Russian VALVE SEATS are not bronze. They are cast iron or some other relatively hard steel. The VALVE GUIDES are bronze.
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