Jump to content

Serious Black

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Serious Black

  • Birthday 10/24/1960

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Engine tuning

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    Chang Jiang Triton Ducati 900SS Ducati 748
  • My Story
    Started biking '79', not stopped. Along the way I had a ride on an Ural. I though 'yup! when I am a big boy with a family I'm going to get one of these'. Now I'm alledgedly a big boy with a wife and two little boys. So we could all join the fun I bought my wife one too.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,652 profile views

Serious Black's Achievements

Russian Bike Nut

Russian Bike Nut (3/3)

  1. When I was servicing my new 750 I discovered the standard airfilter was pretty clogged and probably unserviceable. After raking round in the garage I found a spare K&N type filter for an S&S teardrop filter fitted to my old Hardley Roadster. Same diameter but twice the depth. Fits in the standard air filter box, Proud by a couple of millimeters. I put the lid on and tightened it down. Fitted fine. Appears to work fine but may need a size up on the mainjets. I'll tell you what happens when the jets arrive.
  2. And oil the other side before you fit it. Then there is a better chance of not destroying it on removal which is handy if you are doing it at the side of the road.
  3. Can somebody do me a favour and measure the diameter of the wire used to make the slide spring for the CVK used on the 750? I'm having problems with the revs being slowish to return to idle after blipping the throttle on a hot engine. Been through all the usual suspects and it's now time to get esoteric. I know the manifold rubbers can be a bit iffy on these things but they look OK and pass the WD40 test, ordered new ones just in case. The slide spring looks really thin so I'm wondering it somebody has put in something tthinner to improve throttle responce. The slide holes don't look like they have been touched though. It has Gossie needles, one of which is worn. I'm looking for an alternative as I've heard this is not unusual. The bike has 14000km on it.
  4. This might be of some use. Jikov - Vergaser Typ 2928 CE fuer URAL IMZ-8_1030--IMZ-8_123.mht
  5. K68 or K65. if you HAVE to use Russian carbs try the K65s. A better design that can be assembled in such a way as to make them OK espesially if you get the later float needles without the tiny rubber ring. K68 work but they are fundementally flawed due to the emulsion circuit being disabled. This leads to poor atomisation. There are companies out there that use Keihin. These work well too but are more expensive.
  6. Not a streight bolt on. You need the rubber adapters and to organize your own cables. You might have to fix up new pipes to the air filter box.
  7. Mikuni TM28 form Aliexpress. #190 main jet, 5L1 needle (from ebay) #15 idle jet. Take out the air jet. Bob's your uncle and Fanny's your aunty.
  8. Vance, is that the Ducati ignition you are talking about? Haven't got round to checking that yet. Got her running for the first time yesterday.
  9. I have to disagree with Vance. This type uses a hall-effect trigger. On a Dnepr the timing is set by putting the engine on it's timing mark. Then you tighten the rotor on so that there is no slack but still allowed to rotate. Turn the ignition on. Turn the rotor anti-clockwise til the light on the stator comes on and keep moving until the point where the light EXACTLY goes out. Tighten down the rotor without moving it. You should have the stator set so the bolts are in the middle of the slots. It's also probably worth putting washers between the stator and engine to reduce the heat transmitted to the ignition, these units are sensitive to overheating. If it doesn't work like this then try setting the timing at TDC or at the fully advanced position.
  10. A picture would help, there are several types.
  11. I would take a good look at your earths and earth cable size. Another one is WD40 the hell out the switch gear. The kill switch innards can corrode due to lack of use. I often bypass the kill switch completely. You can often measure a 1v drop. Stick that through the coil and that's another 1000 or so volts at the plug! How healthy is your battery? Another thing many miss is the plug caps. Often they are quite crappy inside. I spray some WD40 on a rag and spin it around inside the cap. You might be surprised by the crap in there! Oh and WD40 your ignition switch too. If you start getting serious with it then clean all the connector plugs and grease them with silicon grease. It may also be worth looking at the cables to the starter motor. If the terminals are steel it will be worthwhile fitting cables with copper/brass terminals.
  12. 15F or 15C? I've kickstarted my bikes at -12C. The oil you use makes a difference. These bikes were using 5W50 synthetic. These days I use 10W60 but I haven't tried this much under -5C.
  13. Removing the rubber hoses to the airfilter changes the tuned length of the inlet system so you will lose low down torque. Starting is usually harder too.
  14. +1 with what Dave said. Had one once and when the sidecar wheel lost trction you were going precisely nowhere! One wheel drive was better at that point. Back then the diff lock conversion cost a fortune. Have just got me a Ranger. 2wd also works on ice and snow.
  15. Found it. N6NE for future reference. Now I just have to find what it all means.
  • Create New...