Trinidad

Sounds like it might be quite hectic to sort out. Do you think that perhaps professional classic bike shops do this sort of thing? There's one or two near me that could deal with it.

Have no pictures currently but there's numerous bent and flattened bits on my rims. Solo bike so 2 wheels. Where can I get new replacements which do not need refurbishing? Residing in the UK. As for the rear wheel, I think it's misaligned. Pictures should be uploaded by tomorrow. Because it's in the corner of my garage near some gym equipment it's hard to tell, but it seems that either the rear wheel or the rear fender is misaligned to the left or right a bit. Currently I am working from front to back with my things that need done on the bike but I think these are priority because it could greatly affect the ride of the motorcycle.

Thought that bike looked familiar. I believe I've commented on one of these videos a few days ago. About that brake shoe, it shouldn't be overlapping that lip, right?

Thanks vance. After careful consideration and procrastination, I've decided to just go with making my own harness. I've found a reliable diagram to follow (many thanks to the pdf's of this forum) and I'll take it from there. Next I just need to learn how to take out and put back in the front and rear wheels, to inspect those bearings, and find how to install the rear brake system.

What diameter are the wires? I'm just going to make my own harness. From what I gathered this is the best course of action.

Just to ensure I've read correctly, start off by only completing one main circuit, like the secondary or primary headlamp light, to see if the electrics are faulty, and go from there? One concern that I have is with the harness having pre lengthened wires. I'll have to try out each wire as I go to see if they can reach where they need to go, e.g make sure the green can reach the positive on the ignition coil, and if it doesn't, swap the headlamp wire with it etc. So I guess I'll do as you said, trace things as I go. I've also noticed that the diagram I posted was for a K-650 and has an oil sensor, which mine doesn't have. Perhaps you have a reliable diagram to follow for an early K-750M somewhere? There is a colossal variation of them out there and quite frankly I have no idea which one is the most accurate.

@Scott E Don't want to create a whole new thread for this, so hopefully you're fine with me tagging you. I want to do the wiring, I've bought a harness. There's six colours to the new harness, White, Black, Green, Red, Blue and Brown. Currently the wiring has the positive grounded and the negative connected to the positive terminal (despite it being a negative ground system) along with other serious issues, like the generator wires connecting to the battery directly. However, the wires dangling out the headlight currently, have 7 colours. All the ones listed above, with grey. Since the harness has come with pre measured bits of wire, and I can't seem to find a diagram online with only 6 colours, perhaps you have some advice for the wiring? Thanks

Come to think of it there's actually a reasonable amount of truth to that. I cannot find anyone else with a side valve Ural or Dnepr or KMZ on there, but as soon as I came here the first 4 other members I see have a side valve. And yeah, I'll put the stand down and run it like that. I have 2 more questions, if you don't mind. 1, is that I can't tell if I have a K-750 or K-750M anymore. I saw this image (dark blue new looking bike, not mine) where the static arm is very long and goes to a hole in the frame, where my damper is a short arm, which sticks onto a little prong that comes out the frame, but it also has the hole you see below. Here's my picture. https://ibb.co/NVtjYL5 And 2, how many wires are there meant to be for wiring a solo bike? Some people say 8, harnesses online have 6, and I have 7. So I'm a bit confused right now 😐

When you reach the wiring, how many colours are there supposed to be for wires, if it's a solo? My K-750's got 7, but harnesses online have 6....

It's been a mere few days and already I've learned a huge amount more specifically about the older models than a while on Soviet Steeds. Wish I had the proper vocabulary range to thank you. What I'll do is drain the oil from the transmission and engine, pull the transmission out and un stick the clutch plates. Instead of riding around in traffic since I'm not old enough to ride, and it's currently SORN (off the road, so not being taxed and not allowed on the road) alongside rusty wheels, a faulty unscrewing steering damper and no proper wiring, do you suggest that I just put the kickstand up and rev/run it in gears on the spot, and in neutral?

Maybe you could provide some of these diagrams? I'm a bit sh!t with them though to be honest, I've learned alot of stuff throughout the years through 3d models and other sorts of things, but never exploded drawings. Either way, I'm sure I can learn. I'm going to be honest, I'm a bit worried about opening up the gearbox because this is going to be my first EVER project vehicle, ever. The previous owner rebuilt the engine and gearbox, I'll probably call him tomorrow ask him a few questions but yeah, I'll do that. I understand the principles of a gearbox but I've never really been able to find proper resources for a KMZ gearbox, but as you said, I'll learn by looking at it. All I'll really have to do is probably document what I've done to dismantle it, then do the opposite when... Re-mantling? Forgot the word.

I appreciate the explanation. Since you seem to know an incredible amount about these transmissions, perhaps you could explain for me, a newbie, why my clutch arm will not budge? You can see here https://ibb.co/9trzntq mine has been zip tied to what seems to be a mount for the cable to connect to the arm, but when I try pushing the arm in to disengage the clutch, no matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't move. Now, I didn't try a hammer or anything in fear that I was maybe doing something wrong, and I wouldn't want to cause damage doing something wrong. Could it be that maybe it's already pulled in? It's just that even when it's in gear and I turn the engine via the kickstarter (electrics and fuel have all been cut by the previous owner) the rear wheel turns on the kickstand, so I really don't know what to think. Edit: P.S, you see in this video that his output shaft turns even in neutral but seems to be on a bearing of some sort, as his hand is able to stop its turning.

I'm going to start with the gearbox since it's a smaller question. In some engine testing videos of these flatheads, you see people changing gears with the engine running and NO clutch. How is this even possible without grinding? You can see the clutch lever doesn't even budge. Wiring questions This is my 1966 KMZ K-750. Solo, no sidecar. https://ibb.co/LxJvv0Q Wiring by the headlamp: https://ibb.co/6gxX2mM Grounding on frame: https://ibb.co/PNRcxRs Previous owner has done the ignition electrics, but I have 7 coloured wires coming from the headlight. One which I assume is a red wire, but it's discoloured to the point I don't know if it's red or orange, and the other one is completely missing. According to the folks on Soviet Steeds, there should be a yellow wire, which I do not have. Other than the ignition wires, everything else has been cut off, so I might just have to strip out everything and buy a new harness. This is where things get even more confusing... Harnesses online have 6 colours while soviet steeds and diagrams have 8 colours, so it's driving me insane and I have no idea which one to follow for my KMZ. I'm horrible with electrics but everything mechanical is completely fine. In short, I need some advice on how many wires I need, what colours (if colours hold any true meaning), and some correct diagrams to follow as I'm totally lost right now. It would really suck if I'm unable to restore this solely because my lack of knowledge in terms of electrics. Currently the electrics are the only thing holding me back from completely renovating this bike in 2 years or less. Yes, I will be replacing that front fender too. Steering Damper Out of curiousity I adjusted the steering damper knob. Bit thick, I know, so the entire assembly came tumbling. Now I can't find any good pictures on how to put the thing back on, so if anyone is able to tell me what order to put it back on, angle and all, that will help alot. That's all for now, thanks guys.

Thank you very much.

Searched for a bit for a front Telescopic Fork, in the UK so Europe, can't find one in good condition. One on the bike I've bought is rusted to hell and back and certainly not restorable. Also, I need to restore the frame, but I don't know how to take off the wires and cables which connect to the brakes, speedometer, battery and other stuff. I'm going to do a "soft" dismantle of the bike since the engine and transmission are in great shape, but I need everything mechanical off everything body related. Any advice on this for a newbie? Alongside that, it hasn't got the grips at all. Spark advance, Clutch handle, Brake handle is all there but not the grips so not only can I not rev the engine but I can't really ride it at the moment :P. Also, this has the older model handles, the ones that are on the outside, I'm not familiar with these or how to take them off. TL;DR I need to know how to install grips and reinstall the brake and clutch handles, dismantle the bike without destroying any wires or connections, and find a telescopic fork. Thanks forks.