Scott E

Dnepr MT's have a hand clutch lever and the transmission presses the clutch arm for you when you press down on the toe or heal shifter pads when shifting. You can up or down shift by just pressing down on the shifter with your foot. This is built into the transmission at the factory it is not something that can be added to a transmission if it did not come with it. Ural and Dnepr transmissions are interchangeable so a Dnepr transmission with semi-automatic shifting can replace a Ural or older Dnepr transmission without that option. If you are looking to switch to a "suicide" clutch setup where you press a foot pedal down to activate it while using a tank mounted shift lever that setup was done on all early motorcycles from the factory. You can find kits to accomplish that for motorcycles that are popular with the custom crowd. If doing it on a Ural or Dnepr with a sidecar attached all you would do is fabricate shift linkages from the shifter to a tank mounted lever. Then you would fabricate a foot pedal that would cable actuate the clutch arm on the transmission. It would be safe to do that on a motorcycle with a sidecar that can't tip over at stops. If you plan on doing that with a 2 wheel motorcycle you could easily set yourself up for bad injuries or even death. There's a reason they call those old Pedal clutch system's a Suicide clutch. When you come to a stop and need to active the clutch with your foot what happens if you end having the bike tip over to the left which is the side of the bike the clutch pedal is mounted on? You end up removing your foot from the clutch to stop tipping over and having the bike take off forward as a result putting you into the rear of the vehicle in front of you or you run out into traffic and getting hit and/or run over. That's the reason manufacturers switched to hand operated clutches and foot shifters.

Here's a link to new needles with the flat washer shown on the end of a needle. It's not an "O"-ring. From the looks of it there's no way it would survive the ethanol contaminated gasoline the sold out to the farm lobby Politicians have forced on us here in the USA. http://dnepr-kiev.com/spare-parts/fuel-feed-system/Fuel-needle-assembly-for-K63-K65-carburettor-with-seal-DNEPR-URAL-set-10-piece-1458?filter=1 Even the no-ethanol gasoline sold for small engines at some service stations end up with with small amounts of ethanol in the gasoline. It's up to the truck driver to mix the ethanol in the gasoline just before delivery and if the tank on the truck has left over ethanol/gasoline in it and the driver puts just gasoline in that tank he ends up delivering gasoline with ethanol in it and putting it in the no-ethanol service station's tank. I usually test the gasoline before I put it in anything. All you do is put food colouring dye in a clean and dry clear glass container and add gasoline to it. If it's pure gasoline the dye will not mix with the gasoline and just sits in the bottom of the container. If it has any ethanol in the gasoline the gasoline will immediately change colour to whatever colour food dye you put in the container. Back when you could not buy gasoline without ethanol I built and sold processing machines that would take the ethanol out of the gasoline and sold them to lawn care business's and small engine shops that started selling that no-ethanol gasoline to customers.

When I purchased my Dnepr it had Chinese K65's installed and a set of original Pekar made K65's in a box with some other parts. The Chinese carburetors were junk even while looking almost new. I don't think they ever managed to get them working properly. I looked at the Pekar carb's and found clogged up jets and passages much like you describe the condition of yours. I had to run a tiny drill bit one step smaller than the hole in the idle jet on one of the carb's because that was the only way to get whatever was clogging that jet removed. I have a set of drills just for drilling out jets, which was what I used. I'm sure that's the reason whoever was attempting to get it going ordered and installed those junk Chinese carb's, which caused even more problems. I got two new Walboro 82-85-7 needles at a small engine shop to replace the original float needles. I 'stamped' a 35 degree V in the Pekar carb's where the new needles seat. They work perfectly! Someone had put ethanol contaminated gas in the gas tank which had completely eaten away those flat seals used on the original needles. Adjusting float height was a PITA with the new needles. I was so worried about the damaging the floats while bending those little brass tabs to get the float height adjusted just right. The floats in the Chinese carb's were slightly different and so could not be used to replace the Pekar floats. The outward appearance of Chinese carb's look just like Pekar Carb's but are almost completely different internally. If you've thought about going to Aliexpress and ordering Chinese K65 or K68 imitation carburetors, just don't do it.

I got two of those float needles from my local small engine shop that had them in stock. One of them worked fine in one k65 but still had problems with the other one. After looking at the area where the needle seats I noted it's just a sharp square corner. The needles should sit in a 35 degree 'V' to seal properly. I had an old 3" long 1/4-20 bolt in a bucket with other hardware so I cut the 7/16 hex head off it, chucked it in my lathe, set the compound to 35 degrees, and cut a smooth 35 degree point on it. Then I measured the inside of the 'tube' the needles sit in and turned the bolt down just a tiny bit smaller. I then dropped the sharp end of my tool into the needle tube and taped it with a very small hammer. This imparted a nice 35 degree V where the walboro needles seat to stop fuel flow. This fixed both of my K65 carburetors! I was going to replace them but now there is no need. They perform far better than the original needles and both now are actually 'good' carburetors!

I wish I could go but I live across the Atlantic in the USA. For some reason real rally’s disappeared in the 1980's here in the States. It's sad because I enjoyed them. Now all we have are little 2 hour rides and hot dogs afterwards. They are not even close to the fun a weekend of camping and fun of a real Motorcycle Rally.

I've been watching Russian and Ukrainian Ural and Dnepr videos on Youtube and have seen a new product from AliExpress that adapt PZ30 carburetors to Ural and Dnepr heads. The manifolds bolt to the heads just like K65 and K68 carburetors and rise to a flange for the PZ30 carburetors so everything is just bolt on and go. They also raise the height of the carburetors to provide more clearance between the carburetor and the shifter on the left side and brake pedal on the right. One Russian Youtube'r even opened a box with a kit with the PZ30 carbs, gaskets, and cables in a kit. I have searched AliExpress and can't find the manifolds or the kit with everything. The PZ30 Carbs without anything else are easily found on AliExpress. I put a comment asking for the link for those items and have got no responses. I don't speak Russian so I don't understand what they are saying but I know exactly what they are showing. I'm wondering if they are showing products sent to those Youtuber's to gauge response before starting mass production of those adaptor manifolds and kits? If anyone has the links to those products I would much appreciate them.

I use Autolite spark plugs on my old Dnepr as well. They are good plugs and the internal resistor has never failed on any I've had.

My Sovek ignition survived an Alabama August with no issues. I've been reading about Sovek ignition issues about transistor problems and hot temps. Apparently one of the inspection stations that was testing them was overheating them with faulty equipment. They tested good but the units that went across that station later failed in use in hot weather. I suspect that some of the components such as resistors and capacitors were damaged causing their values to change such as capacitors opening or shorting across the leads and resistors opening or their value changing to something much lower in value. Any of those conditions would cause the transistor to fail. Most all of those components are surface mount types making them difficult test much less replace unless you are setup to do that kind of repair work. I used to do repair work on electronics but that was before surface mount components became common. Now I 'm too old even if I had the equipment to do that sort of work. You need steady hands and good eyes and now I have nether of those due to my age.

Here in Alabama it hardly ever snows but when it does we take the day off and play in it! I made up some snow chains for my MT-11 just in case we get some.

The differences are gobs of low rpm torque and it's really quiet. I have some really steep hills where I live and ride. Before the stock exhaust I needed to be in first gear to go up them. Now second gear is fine with no engine complaints on the steepest one and with all the others all I need do is drop into third about 2/3rds the way up and all is good. The one is exceptionally steep. So steep it's difficult even for a healthy person to climb, and I do mean climb. Most people in my area drive the long way around to avoid it. Before the stock exhaust I would come to a near stop at the bottom and drop into first to climb up the incline. Now I just slow down, find second gear, and go right up easy as pie.

Glad to have the forum back! Thank you so must for the effort you extend to make it possible.

Good to have the Forum back and working again! I've have over a 1,000 Km on the 2 into 1 KMZ exhaust system I got from Arbalet Ukraine spare parts. The engine still likes it. I have much better low in torque now and the carburetors tune properly and stay that way. No more randomly mis-matched synchronization issues. Apparently a Dnepr 650 engine must have the correct exhaust back pressure for everything to work properly.

I used the Walbro float needles in my K65 carbs. They worked fine on one but I still had trouble with the other carb needle not sealing off the flow. I turned a 35 degree point on an old 1/4-20 bolt and cut a shoulder on it on my metal lathe so it would just drop in the carbs where the needles seat. Using a small hammer I hit the end of the tool so it would impart a small 35 degree angle where the point of the needles sit. Now the ends of the needles with their 35 degree points sit in a hole that matches them. No more leaking needle seats! That fixed a lot of other carb problems I was having like variable idle speeds and idle speed "taking off higher" randomly at red lights and idling in stop and go traffic. That stuff was caused by random fuel levels in the carbs.

I'm going to replace my sheet metal pan with the deep aluminium sump as well. I used the black oil proof RTV sealant between the rubber gasket and engine and steel oil pan. I took my time putting in the screws and using a torque pattern as used on heads. No leaks or distortion was encountered. I want the larger sump more for the added litre of oil and better oil cooling more than anything else. Currently when the oil is down on the dip stick about 3/8 of an inch I add 5 oz of oil that gets the level at the full mark once again. I would rather add a 1/2 litre of oil at a time. That would still have a 1/2 litre more oil in the engine than the stock arrangement and I could go much further before needing to add oil. I don't take my Dnepr off road so the deeper oil pan hanging down below the frame would not be an issue.

I'm working on giving it to someone that could use it. It's a stunning dress that obviously cost a lot of money. It has hundreds of shinny bits on it that had to be sewn by hand. Oh! Arbalet was going to send me a replacement exhaust system after a Ukraine Postal service investigation was completed and shipping insurance red tape processed. I e-mailed Arbalet informing them just a few minutes after receiving the exhaust system it was delivered so that process could be stopped. I really happy with the exhaust system. It's really quiet which is what I wanted. The Wife also likes it quiet as well. She hated having to wear hearing protection and so do I just to go on a short ride.

They’ve already been caught vastly inflating the numbers and that's happening world wide. There's money to be made on a "cure" if they can produce one or even produce a placebo vaccination available just as herd immunity kicks in. Then who's to say the vaccination worked or the herd became naturally immune to the virus as the medical industry makes it's trillions of dollars it shares with the Politicians that require compliance of the Citizens.

Well here's the report of how this worked out. Today a miraculous event occurred. The exhaust system I ordered was delivered today by the postal carrier. When she pulled up in my driveway and honked her horn I went out wondering what she was delivering. As soon as she retrieved the package via the rear loading/unloading door I immediately knew what it was from the shape of the package it was wrapped in. Low and behold it was my exhaust system! When she scanned the bar code so it would be reported delivered she put on one of those WTF faces. She then told me there was an error and that the package had already been delivered. I told her the wedding dress story and she immediately understood what had happened. Anyway she signed the electronic box block for me due to this Beer Virus thing that I had taken delivery of the package, a second time..... After she left I opened the package just to make sure and there it was in all it's glorious chrome plating was my KM3 two into one exhaust system. I then took off my red neck pipes and installed the factory OEM exhaust. I got everything shown on the web site. The kit came with 4 exhaust nuts and gaskets as shown in the picture but there should be five so I was short one. I just reused one of the nuts from my old exhaust so everything is good. On my next order I will order a nut to replace the one now missing from the old system just so I have a set just in case I or someone else needs it in the future. The OEM exhaust is really quiet, which I like. Performance is the same as my Red Neck system which was way better than the Harley Davidson mufflers. I still can't get over just how bad those aftermarket mufflers were one I removed them and installed something else due to the extremely loud noise they produced. Those things were all bark and no bite.

Got what should have been my new 2 into 1 exhaust system for my Dnepr yesterday. What I got instead was a very expensive, custom made, Wedding dress with accessories. Some of the accessories are 18 karat gold sequins sewn into the dress. The documents that came with the box listed the contents as Vintage Sidecar Parts. "Amy" is going to be a very sad girl! I wonder if she got my exhaust system? I found the Web Site that sold that dress and e-mailed them that I received Amy's dress instead of my exhaust system. I guess I'll find out if Arbalet will fix this problem or if I'm forced to file a complaint with PayPal, which I don't want to do. So far Arbalet has been very good with all my orders and parts I've gotten before this problem happened. I looked up the dress I received and discovered it cost Amy $1,200 not including the gold accessory parts plus shipping. To find that out I would have had to start the ordering process. I'm actually most upset about getting Amy's wedding dress and the problems that's going to cause her along with the money she spent on it.

Check out this video. It might be the answer to your sidecar problem. The 1916 Harley-Davidson With A Twist!

This Virus thing has really messed up everything for everyone. I remember them saying the lock downs would only be a couple or three weeks. At this point I think the politicians are enjoying the extra power they wield just a little too much and are just hanging on in order to attempt to control political outcomes. I'm also pretty sure this will all go away here in the USA after our Nov 3 elections. They've already been caught faking infection numbers by labelling all deaths as being caused by the virus, including one poor guy that died in a motorcycle accident.

If you have a microprocessor controlled electronic ignition unit with the LED for static timing the flywheel must be set at the Top Dead Centre mark. To static time it rotate the unit fully counter clockwise. Then turn on the ignition and rotate the unit clockwise until the LED lights up if not already illuminated. Continue rotating clockwise until the LED just shuts off. The microprocessor unit fires the plugs just as as the LED goes out. It is charging the ignition coil when the LED is illuminated. It's working exactly like opening and closing the points on the old points type ignition system. When the points are closed the coil is connected to the battery to charge it. With the electronic ignition unit the LED is illuminated. When the points open the magnetic field created by charging the coil collapses causing the creation of a high voltage charge when that magnetic field collapses across the high voltage windings in the ignition coil causing a spark across the spark plug gaps. This also happens when the LED on the electronic unit goes out. The CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition) electronic ignition units (no microprocessor) use resistors and capacitors to retard the timing advance so static timing is set at the maximum advance timing mark on the flywheel. The slower the engine rpm the more the resistors and capacitors retard the timing advance. There is a timing mark on the magnet rotor that should be aligned with the mark on the unit close to the screw at the 5 O’clock position with + and - marks to ether side. If you can't see the mark rotate the rotor 180 degrees and remount it or using the kick start lever rotate the engine one revolution back to maximum advance mark on the flywheel. The mark on the rotor should now be visible. It's best to double check and set timing if required with a timing light and the engine running. With the engine running increase engine speed and note when the unit stops retarding timing which should be at the maximum advance mark on the flywheel. If it's too high or low rotate the unit using the + or - degree marks to set the timing according to how the fuel is mixed in your area. Here in the USA that's a couple of degrees shy of the maximum advance timing mark on the flywheel. I have a type 4 microprocessor unit and set it up as I described the process above. The engine started and ran fine with no problems. I connected a timing light to double check and found the timing was perfect. When kick starting the engine slowly the unit was firing the plugs at Top Dead Centre, which is correct. As soon as the engine started idling the Top Dead Centre mark immediately disappeared as the unit advanced the timing. I then increased the engine speed with the throttle and noted the maximum advance mark on the flywheel come into view and the unit stopped advancing the timing even with a higher engine speed. It was a couple of degrees short of the maximum advance mark but that's OK. Due to the gasoline mix sold here in the USA maximum advance should be retarded a few degrees from the advance timing mark on the flywheel. I was doing that when I was still running the old points type ignition system.

That's a very good looking machine! Did you get a sidecar with it? No big deal if you didn't but having one would double the fun.

The ratchet teeth are probably worn down and all it took to finish them off was that last start where the shaft overruns them as soon as it starts but your foot is still on the kick start lever until you take your foot off it. Those teeth do wear a tiny bit every time the engine is started during the time the engine has started and your foot is still holding the kick start lever down. Thankfully Ural and Dnepr gear boxes are dirt simple and easy to work on. Seal and gasket kits are inexpensive too. I don't think the kits come with a new buffer bar, which should be replaced while your in the gear box even if it's not broken (yet). Every time you release the kick start lever it slams that buffer bar when it returns to it's resting position.

There's always a first time for everything. All it would cost to check the crankshaft is replacing two head gaskets when reinstalling the heads. While the heads are off the lifters can be pulled and checked and the cam lobes can be inspected as well. Of course the valves need be checked while the heads are off. Something has gone very wrong and the only way to find out what it is to start looking for the problem. Blowing off intake boots is a sure sign of a serious timing issue. The ignition system also needs to be checked. It could be an ignition timing problem where it's firing the spark plugs multiple times where they should not be firing such as when the intake valve is open and igniting the mixture during the intake stroke. A look behind the timing cover at the crankshaft and camshaft gears should be done too if everything else checks out OK.

JonLilley From the description of your problem I'm very sure you have a slipped crankshaft. Ural's use a pressed together crankshaft. Apparently one or both cylinders have slipped out of time with the crankshaft timing gear. I would take it to another Ural Dealer and demand a new engine if the crankshaft has indeed slipped. It can be checked without disassembling the case. The heads should be removed so the piston deck height can be checked with a dial indicator as the engine is rotated to top dead centre. If one or both pistons are not fully topped out at the Top Dead Centre mark on the flywheel you will know the crankshaft has slipped. If you find that condition the entire engine is junk. Do not let the Dealer just replace the crankshaft. A slipped crankshaft will warp the block and thus screw up everything else in the engine. You may have bent valves which will damage the heads as well. Of course without having your bike at hand I can't absolutely confirm my diagnosis and I might be very wrong. However the engine should be checked for a slipped/damaged crankshaft. I've worked on other engines with pressed together crankshafts and have found slipped crankshafts on those engines so it's not like something that never or even rarely happens.