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Scott E

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  1. Moto Sancho on Youtube published a video about a 7 inch LED projector headlight that fits a Dnepr headlight ring. I don't speak Russian but he's pretty good at getting his points across so if you watch closely you'll get what he's doing and don't need to understand anything he's saying. I found that headlight on (USA market) Amazon with the Yeego brand name. On high beam it's 40 watts and on low beam it's 30 watts so obviously it's not going to consume more than the p45t or R2 bulb used in the original soviet made headlight. Nearly all of the other 7 inch LED headlights I found are rated at 75 or more watts so they don't cause CANBUS errors on modern vehicles that get mad at you if you make changes to the factory designs. It comes with a CANBUS adaptor but it's not required on older stuff like our Soviet Steeds. Nearly all the reviews give it high ratings but one review said the low beam quit working after a few days. I'm thinking seriously about ordering one and using it on my Dnepr. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J39V51M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2XVD66QLVAEFN&psc=1
  2. I read the original post yesterday evening and could not come up with any sort of answer at that time so I went to sleep on it. During the night I think I may have come up with an answer for this very strange problem. The problem could possibly be caused by the alternator and/or it's regulator. As per your description it produces spark when you remove the rotor and test it by hand so the alternator is not being turned by the engine. When you connect it and start kicking the engine over you are also rotating the alternator. If there is a problem in the alternator it may be causing problems such as inducing alternating current on the battery positive post which can and will cause cancellation of DC power on the power line when the negative AC pulse neutralizes the positive DC voltage so at that moment the ignition coil is not charging and so can not create a spark across the spark plug gap when the points open or the electronic ignition IGBT transistor turns off, which also causes a spark from the ignition coil because the ignition coil is not charged at that moment. It could be one or more of the rectifier diodes on the rectifier board in the alternator have shorted out. You can test this by disconnecting the power wire at the battery and have only the wire from the battery to the ignition system with nothing else on the bike connected to the battery. Then have both spark plugs removed from the heads but grounded to the heads with the spark plugs connected to the spark plug wires. When you rotate the engine with the kick start lever with good sparks created across the spark plug gaps like when you test by hand without rotating the engine then you know know the problem is with the electrical system of the bike and not the ignition system. I could very well be wrong about this but you can test this without any cost except your time.
  3. As we all know the Soviet Speedometers on our motorcycles are not very accurate and are more of a suggestion of your speed than an accurate representation. I enjoy working on Bicycles and as a result of that people will drop off their old bikes and let me fix them and give them to people that can't afford a nice new one. I was working on one that came in with a small electronic speedometer on it. A magnet attached to a spoke passing by a small pickup mounted to the forks informs the meter when the wheel has made one full rotation. The wheel diameter is measured and is entered into the setup screen on the speedometer, which calculates speed and distance which it displays. It's self powered with a small button battery. Typically they are dead but this one was actually working. I removed it from the bike and put it on my Dnepr. I had to make a magnet holder because the spokes on it's wheels are a lot larger than bicycle spokes but I did that in a few minutes. A quick search on the internet provided setup instructions so I measured my tire diameter and put that in the speedometer. The pickup simply zip-tied to the fork leg and the speedometer zip-tied to the handlebar. It was about lunch time so I figured I would test out my new speedometer with a lunch run to my favourite eating joint. That speedometer ended up being dead on accurate for both distance and speed. It's now a permanent fixture on my Dnepr! It was easy to install, no wiring needed, it's waterproof, and according to the manual it only needs a new battery once a year. It has no illumination but the illumination in the soviet speedometer is next to nothing as well. I might attach a small LED above it to illuminate the face of it. I think the new cost of this one was less than $10 because it's a Bell model.
  4. My sidecar brake was never right from the beginning. The first problem was the timing of the cam with the brake actuating arm it's tack welded to. I filed the welds and then cracked them loose with a chisel. I found a square hole punched in the arm that matches a square shoulder on the cam. Whoever punched that square hole didn't get it right. No surprise there! I filed that square hole out so the cam could be properly timed with the arm. I put the arm and cam in position and fitted the brake shoes in place so the cam was held in place and then moved the arm to it's forward stop. Then I used a punch to make timing marks on both so I could weld the arm to the cam correctly. After welding it up I reassembled everything and tested the rear motorcycle and sidecar brakes together with the rear brake pedal. The sidecar brake cable immediately failed. Whoever crimped the cable ferrule did it wrong and that's where the cable failed. Was I surprised again? I'll let you guess that one with only one chance. I had ordered all new cables back when I first acquired my Dnepr so I pulled the new sidecar cable out of my spare parts box and installed it. It didn't fail but it was not right. The cable adjuster had to be run all the way out before the brake pads contacted the brake drum. The new cable was too long. Another nasty surprise! At this point I now had a working sidecar brake so I went with that and started looking for options. I decided I would rebuild my original sidecar brake cable. I measured the old wire cable and found it just slightly smaller than 3/32" wire cable available here in hardware stores along with a 3/32" ferrule and stop together in a blister pack. I went ahead and purchased the 3/32 cable and ferrule pack and took them home. Both cost $3.26 USD with tax. I found the new cable would work perfectly with the old sidecar cable components. I cleaned up all the parts I would be reusing and set about rebuilding the old sidecar cable. It took me about an hour because I checked everything twice, then a third time, before crimping the ferrule and stop on the new 3/32 wire cable. It came out perfect! The sidecar brake shoes have almost no wear and the sidecar brake adjuster is almost at it's minimum setting with the motorcycle and sidecar brakes properly adjusted and both move the equalizing bar the same distance when pressing the brake pedal. A quick ride and brake test confirmed nice smooth straight line braking from the motorcycle rear and sidecar brakes when pressing the rear brake pedal. I'm going to do that same thing to the spare sidecar brake cable too. As it currently is it will only work with new, almost unworn brake shoes.
  5. Same here! My Dnepr MT-11 is the most fun motorcycle I've ever owned despite the fact I had to take it completely apart, modify or fix, and adjust just about everything, then reassemble it. The last part I had to file, then chisel apart, and tack weld correctly timed was the sidecar drum brake actuation arm. Whoever punched out the square hole the cam fits in and gets welded up got it so far off I was unable to adjust the new sidecar brake cable so the sidecar brake would actually work with the rear brake before it hit the brake backing plate where the brake cable adjuster screws in. I thought I had a stretched sidecar brake cable but the new cable was exactly the same as the old cable. At least I have a slightly used spare sidecar brake cable now. I also know the sidecar brake works because it locked up and skidded as I was going down hill when it rolled over some wet leaves in the road. Always a fun time on my old Russian Iron Steed!
  6. What would be the cost of the 700 watt alternator and shipping to Alabama, USA in US Dollars and how would I send payment if I ordered?
  7. Thank you for this link! I've been looking to replace the Russian headlight with it's rather poor 45/40 R2 or p45t type bulb with a headlight that takes the far more common halogen H4 bulbs. Every headlight I found on amazon did not have the 4 watt bulb that lights up with the middle position on the off/park/on headlight switch or the position marker lights that come on when the key switch is in the third position and allows the key to be removed. I know some places require parking or position marking lights be on when parking in some places like street side parking which is why the original headlight has that 4 watt bulb in addition to the headlight bulb and I would like to retain that function. I found this headlight from your link, which will be perfect. https://classicgarage.com/ne7herewdaru.html Back in the late 70's I had a Datsun B210 Hatchback with Cibie Z-Beam headlamps, which were awesome! If they are copy’s of the original Z-beams, which I suspect they are, it will be very nice to have on my Dnepr. I'll be getting a 35/35 watt H4 bulb for it as well because of the lower current draw. That's less than the 45 watt draw of the R2 stock bulb for about the same light output. I'm still running a G-424 alternator with it's puny 150 watt output and I'm not sure how it would react to having a standard 55/60 watt H4 bulb hooked up to it along with all the other bulbs that are running as well.
  8. The best thing I did to my Dnepr was fitting the Microprocessor type electronic ignition system. Before I did that I installed new points, condensor, and made sure the gap was correct and maximum advance point setting was exactly correct. Double checking the timing with a timing light showed it firing the spark plugs all over the place until the engine speed was high enough for the timing advance weights to be pined to the stops. Now the timing is perfect across the RPM range and I never have the kick start lever kick me instead.
  9. That's great! I added a volt meter to my Dnepr to keep an eye on charging. It's right next to an oil pressure gauge. I think Dnepr should have made those standard. As for salt, you just need to wash it with soap and water. I'm lucky they don't salt the roads here in Alabama. On the rare occasions it snows overnight they just call it a holiday (snow day) and everyone stays home to enjoy the snow because it will be gone that evening. Here in Alabama some bikers park their bikes in mid July to the end of August because of the hot temperatures, especially motorcycles with air cooled engines.
  10. The only issues I had with my Pekar K65's were the needle valves. I solved that with Walbro small engine needle valves and a tool I made to "stamp" a 35 degree seat for them to drop into. Now they never stick or leak like the tiny washers on the end of the stock needles did they came with or disintegrated due to the ethanol contamination in our gasoline mandated by politicians that sold out to the farm lobby. Harley Davidson motorcycles don't command the prices for used bikes like they did in the past. That Chopper fad came and went as well. It was more of a flash in the pan than a fad. Fads come and go and I'm sure some time in the future Choppers will make another come back and like always it will fade away again. I don't think Harley Davidson will be around much longer. Their customer base is ageing out and new riders don't particularity like modern Harley Davidson motorcycles. To quote one young Biker riding a Honda they are Heavy, Slow, and Expensive and I agree with him. Back in the early 80's I purchased a 650 Triumph Bonneville 650 a shipmate wrecked and made a chopper out of it. Back then if you wrecked your bike screwing up the frame and forks in the process you could order a Chopper kit which included a new frame and springer front end and all the other stuff as you needed as well. I built it and rode it a few months until a guy offered me stupid money for it. Needless to say I took the money but never told him he was being stupid. A hard tail Chopper is fun for a little while but then you get tired of the harsh ride and lousy steering. That was another period of time when the Chopper fad was popular.
  11. Pekar is the way to go if you want to keep it all Russian. CV carbs are the best but cost is high for them. You also must replace the rubber parts in them every so often depending on the fuel available. If you have government mandated ethanol contaminated gasoline like we have here in the USA due to Farm Lobby money and corrupt politicians you'll be rebuilding them every 2 or 3 years. The PZ30 carburetors don't have any rubber in them and will go forever as long as you don't let the fuel rot in them.
  12. Did you have the Chinese copy K68's or real Pekar Russian Made K68's? There is a huge difference between them. The Chinese K68's are total crap. Also the Pekar K68 rebuild kits do not fit the Chinese K68's at all. The Chinese don't make rebuild kits for their copy's. They expect you to buy new K68 Carburetors if you are foolish enough to do that. That said the Russians and Ukrainians love those PZ30 Chinese made Carburetors but hate the Chinese made K65 and K68 Carburetors.
  13. First pull the generator off the engine, make a cover to cover the hole left by removing the generator, and crank the engine too see of that was the problem. If it's still doing the same thing you'll need to dig deeper. Pull the cylinders off and check the pistons and rings. If the pistons are scuffed or the ring gaps are too small those will cause your problem. If the pistons and rings are OK pull the pistons off the rods and check the rods for binding or play indicating bad rod needle bearings on the crankshaft. The K750 engine uses pressed together crankshaft components like the crankshaft used in Ural engines. It's possible the crankshaft components have slipped in relation to the crankshaft rod pins which will cause binding. You can take the ends of the rods in hand and use them to spin the engine crankshaft. It should spin freely as you spin the crankshaft by pushing and pulling the rods in and out. If it does not spin freely your crankshaft is bad. You could also have bad crankshaft bearings which would also cause the crankshaft not to freely spin in the engine block. Obviously if you find crankshaft binding you will need to remove the crankshaft from the block so you can inspect it to see if the crankshaft components have slipped or you find bad crankshaft bearings. It's entirely possible the "rebuild" was just new or reworked cylinders, valves, pistons, and rings and the bottom end was not touched, which may have been the original problem to begin with. RussN is correct about setting up a fan in front of the engine so air can move across the cooling fins if you are going to run the engine for more than 10 minutes from dead cold. KMZ produced engines and transmissions for railroad maintenance of way "speeders" which are the same engines used on motorcycles except the front of the engine had a cooling fan and ducting to direct that air across the cylinders and heads. It sure would have been nice if that same cooling setup was done for motorcycles as well.
  14. I think that press is sold under many brand names all over the world. The one I ordered looks just like the Harbor Freight press. I think I will drop by Harbor Freight next Friday and see if the home office has done anything about that manager.
  15. I don't know if it will do any good but I found a customer support phone number for Harbor Freight. I called it and explained the problem I was having buying a shop press from store #582. She told me that the store manager was in error and should have sent the shop press with the missing box back to the warehouse as soon as it was discovered it was missing parts and put a complete shop press on the next truck to the store. She put me on hold and actually called the store like a customer would asking for the shop press I wanted. When she took me off hold She told me she got the same shady story about waiting for the missing box for that shop press and call back again after Wednesday when the truck would make it's weekly delivery. From the tone in her voice I could tell she was upset about that. Quoting her "That's not how we treat our customers". I kind of get the feeling some heads are going to roll over the situation at the regional warehouse and store #582.
  16. I need a small shop press and my local Harbor Freight store lists a 12 ton that uses a bottle jack for power. Perfect for modifying for a job specific bit of kit a small industrial shop asked me to build for them. I check the web site and it has a green check mark beside the in stock block on the product info page. It's an in-store item only so you can't order one on-line. I head out to go buy one and discover they can't sell it to me because not all 3 boxes it comes in was there. That was two weeks ago. The manager told me to come back Wednesday because the missing box will be on the truck and then he can sell it to me. I go back and find out the missing box was still missing. Then he claimed another truck would arrive Friday morning and come back after lunch Friday. The missing box is still missing in action. Then I get another BS story about it coming next Wednesday. I ask the manager to order another press because it's become obvious the missing in action box is gone forever. He says he can't do that and they only keep one in stock in every store. Anyway today is another Wednesday and the now missing in action box of shop press parts has still not returned from it's long overdue patrol so I have moved it over to the "Overdue and sunk or destroyed" category and have ordered a press from Amazon.com, which I should have done anyway. Apparently Harbor Freight store #582 will never sell another 12 ton shop press for as long as it remains in business due to that unrecoverable box of missing in action shop press parts. For everyone that has no idea what a Harbor Freight store is they sell all kinds of tools and supplies to us common folk with thin wallets and poor quality tastes and would quickly run out of stuff to sell if a Chinese trade embargo was implemented here in the USA.
  17. The box he opened up with the PZ30 carburetors, throttle cables, gaskets, and manifolds had Aliexpress tape sealing the box and the box had Aliexpress printing on it. I still can't find it on Aliexpress myself. Perhaps it is only available from the Russian language Aliexpress site? The Russians and Ukrainians really like those PZ30 carbs on their Ural and Dnepr Motorcycles. I use google translate to translate the comments from Russian to English. I asked in the comments section for a link but still no responses. Some commented about how cheap they are but still perform very well on Ural and Dnepr motorcycles.
  18. I used 3.5 X 19 (100/90-19) Shinko Classic 240 tires on my M-11. They have an almost flat tread which is why I purchased them. I found the original 3.75-19 USSR made tires were hard to fit between the brake shoes and swing arm coming off and going on and thought Duro HF308 4.0-19 would be wider which would require removing the brake shoes, slipping the wheel in past the final drive, putting the brake shoes back on, and then putting the wheel on the final drive. The 3.5-19 tires go on easy without any drama. It wasn’t until later I found out those old USSR 3.75-19 tires are actually the same width as the Duro HF308 4.0-19 tires. I've been rotating my tires so it looks like I'll get over 10,000 Km out of them before I wear them out. I may go with the Duro HF308 4-19 tires next time.
  19. The High School made it very hard on us because they got half the funding they would normally get. The Trade School got the other half. We were bullied by members of the sports teams relentlessly with the approval of the High School management. We were even informed that the harassment wound stop if we quit going to Trade School. I toughed it out and graduated from both. I never attended my High School graduation ceremony and never paid the High School for the stuff that went along with that. None of us Trade School Students did that. We simply stopped by the office and picked up our certificate on the last day. The High School ended up losing more money because of that with the loss of revenue for pictures, books, jewelry, and clothing associated with that graduation ceremony. You don't need that stuff if you refuse to go. People at the High School ended up losing their jobs over that when education officials wanted to know why none of us went to the ceremony and we told them about the harassment we suffered. Meanwhile the last two weeks at Trade School consisted of recruiters offering jobs to us. Everyone that went to trade School got a high paying job of their choice. I went to work for McDermott Shipbuilding in Morgan City, LA at $7 (USD) an hour at a time when most people were making $3 an hour, like my Dad. My Dad accused me of lying to him about my pay until I let him see my pay stub. After 6 months I was offered a job on an off shore oil platform as a Mill Wright by McDermott that was contracted by an Oil Company to operate it. I made $15 and hour for 8 hours, then $22.5 for another 4 hours, and $30 an hour for additional hours worked in a 24 hour time period out on the platform. I typically worked 16 hours a day out there because I was the only certified Mill Wright on the platform. We had no place to spend that money out there because they served us 4 meals a day and we got furnished work clothing free as well. I made more money in one month than my Dad made in a year. He thought my going to Trade School and not College was a mistake.
  20. Hinged fenders are actually two different fenders that mount to each other via the hinge. I don't think anyone reproduces them today due to the higher costs involved. You need one set of press dies for one half of the fender and another set for the other half. Obviously stamping a single fender that can be sold for many if not all of our Russian Bikes is what they are doing today. If you are really determined to have a hinged fender you will need to cut and modify a single peace fender and make the hinge for it along with the brackets that attach the two fenders together with the hinge. It can be done because I've seen it done in custom shops here in the USA. Before the 1980's many Harley Davidson Motorcycles came with hinged rear fenders and reproductions are available here for those motorcycles but buying a fender here in the USA and the cost to ship it to Europe would cost a lot and installing a Harley Davidson fender on your K750 would not be right.l I don't think anyone will fault you for not having a hinged rear fender on your K750. Most people would not even notice because manufacturers no longer make bikes with those hinged fenders. Personally I like hinged fenders and think they are very cool as well as making it a lot easier to get the rear wheel off and back on the bike.
  21. Put the front axle through the axle hole and use it to help measure the distance between each of the brake shoes. I used a peace of flat aluminium bar with a hole in one end that slides over the axle. The other end I slotted for a small screw. I cut a point on the end of the screw to use as a pointer. To use it pull the brake lever in and tie it down with string about where the lever would be when pulling in the brake lever when the front wheel with brake is assembled and working and the pads would be contacting the brake drum. Now set the pointer so it points to the outside of the brake shoe friction pad. Now rotate the pointer to the other shoe and check to make sure it points to the same place on the other brake shoe pad. Adjust the adjustment rod until the pointer points to the same place on both brake pads. You could use a peace of wood, hard plastic, or even wire as long as you can accurately measure the distance between the axle and the brake pads. You could even hold a ruler on the axle and measure the distance between the axle and the brake pads.
  22. You have the correct rear tail/stop light for the motorcycle side of things. That lamp has separate bulbs for tail light and the brake light. The lights on the sidecar are correct also. The sidecar has no brake light, only a tail light and the white light on the front near top of the sidecar fender. It has the correct machine gun mount on the front of the sidecar and you have a correct ammo box as well. It's a very nice looking K750! I don't have any experience with the front brake setup on the K750. I have a Dnepr MT-11 so it may be completely different from my bike. It looks similar from the outside. The adjustable bar between the brake levers is for balancing the cams that press the brake shoes out into the drum. Adjustment is done where the brake cable attaches to the front brake hub by screwing the threaded cable stop in or out.
  23. The mechanical voltage regulators use contacts exactly like you would find used for ignition points. When (not if) they get pitted they will fail to pass current in exactly the same way bad or pitted ignition points will cause ignition failure, IE no spark across the spark plug gaps. Once that happens no amount of spring tension adjusting is going to fix the problem. What you need to do is clean the contact points so they can once again pass current without resistance. Generally you can use fine grit sand paper to clean them. Just cut and fold it so the sand paper will pass across both contact surfaces at the same time as you pull it back and fourth across the contact points. After the points are clean be sure and use some brake cleaning spray to wash away any grit and small metal particles resulting from the cleaning/sanding process. Once completed the regulator should start working once again if the magnetic coils that open and close the contact points are not burned or shorted out. I have an electronic voltage regulator on my Dnepr MT-11. The alternator light never goes completely out. When not using the head, tail, and clearance lights it will almost go out above idle. At night when running head, tail, and clearance lights the alternator light never goes out. The alternator is functioning perfectly with an output of 13.9 volts with all the lights lit. The alternator warning light will not go dim until voltage is above 14.2 volts, which never happens when all the lights are on. During the day the alternator and regulator is producing 14.8 volts above idle and the alternator light is very dim but not off. I made sure all the connections were good at the alternator and regulator and finally came to the conclusion the alternator warning light circuit was functioning at too high a voltage setting. It should be turning on below 12.2 volts and completely off above that 12.2 volts. Needless to say the regulator is completely sealed up so changing a resistor to get the voltage set properly is not possible. I just installed a voltage gauge right next to an oil pressure gauge and rely on those instead of the installed idiot lights. I've been tempted to instal a mechanical voltage regulator which can be adjusted for proper operation of the alternator warning light. I'd be willing to bet a new electronic voltage regulator would have the exact same problem as the one I have now so money spent for zero improvement.
  24. Arbalet Motorcycles is still exporting KMZ motorcycles along with "vintage" Russian cars and Trucks on a separate website to the USA. They have a warehouse in Nebraska where they have completely restored (or I think new) KMZ Dnepr motorcycles with 800cc boxer engines and 5 speed with reverse transmissions. Even stranger is the engine block features an improved lube oil system and a spin on oil filter eliminating the centrifugal oil filter behind the timing cover. Apparently, KMZ is producing motorcycle parts again on the sly. KMZ did not limit itself to just motorcycles so they remained in business, they just stopped motorcycle production. Vintage Russian Iron is popular again in Russia. People are dragging that old iron out of barns and sheds and restoring them creating a huge market for parts, which is being filled from somewhere if not KMZ. An example are replacement K750 side valve cylinders and heads. Suddenly what was unobtainable in the recent past is now in plentiful supply. I think KMZ is producing limited numbers of modernized Dnepr motorcycles to fill a void while claiming they are restored vintage motorcycles thus bypassing import regulations and environmental requirements in many countries where they were sold both before and then after the collapse of the Soviet Union. Arbalet has a Dnepr they call "Desert Storm" in their Nebraska warehouse I've been thinking of ordering. It has the new 800cc engine, 5 speed with reverse transmission, and what appears to be a Ural 2-wheel drive locking differential final drive with a shaft going to the sidecar wheel. I don't really care for 2-wheel drive. If it was a single wheel drive like my Dnepr MT-11 I would already have purchased it and pay to ship it to the trucking company dock close to me.
  25. It appears to be a K750. KMZ randomized serial numbers so captured motorcycle serial numbers including those on transmissions, engines, and frames, would not reveal any information like types of motorcycles produced and the number of motorcycles manufactured. Originally KMZ products were limited to domestic and approved foreign military sales. They continued that practice despite asking for and receiving permission to sell to civilian's and to countries that allowed import or Russian motorcycles and motor vehicles. That means those serial numbers you provided contain no useful information. Canada was one of those countries that allowed importation and sales of Russian Vehicles and Motorcycles. The USA did not allow importation of Russian vehicles and Motorcycles until 1992 after the collapse of the Soviet Union. As a result KMZ and IMZ motorcycles located in Canada started finding their way into the USA so we could register and legally operate them on our roads and highways.
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