[Selling my Ural.]

Bobbed? How stripped is it? Did that include removing the sidecar and it's frame? Pictures would really help especially due to modifications made and if they are reversible.  

[Badly warped rims + Possibly misaligned rear wheel]

I'd say they would be happy to sell you a high quality rim at a high quality price. I don't think they would even touch your old rims due to liability issues. If they repaired your old rim and it broke while you were riding it..... I just live with my crummy old poor Russian rims. 3 are not too bad but one is very bad so I keep it as the spare wheel on the sidecar. It's there "just in case" but when I rotate tires I dismount the tire on it and swap it out with a worn tire. I did consider making a jig for my press to bend that flattened area but the rim is welded right in the middle of it and so I fear what the outcome of doing that would be. Instead of a bad rim that is usable it would become scrap metal. 

[Chang 12v OHV for Nipper?]

Here's an online parts manual for side valve and overhead valve CJ motorcycles. Parts are also available from the same site.

http://sidecarpro.com/Parts_manual.html

 

[Badly warped rims + Possibly misaligned rear wheel]

Russian rims are horrible. You can find used and buy on-line but you may get a rim that's just as bad or even worse than the ones you have now. I used a press to straighten the side to side run out my rims had but the flat spots usually found where the rims are welded together are there to stay. What I did was true my rims as close as I could without the tire on the rim and ignored the flat spots. Then I mounted a tire on the rim and put it on my motorcycle balancing tool which I also used to check the rims for true. The tire will find a happy placement on the rim and sort of offset the flat spots. Turn the tire and adjust the spokes so the tire is running as true as possible on the poorly made rims. I know it sounds bad but it's all you can do without spending a small fortune buying good quality rims and the shipping that goes along with that. Then you'll need to balance the tire/rim because it will need it very much due to the rim run out just to get a true running tire that will not bounce going down the road.    

[No activity?]

My 562 is small inside as well. I have sat in it and just barely fit. I'm 5 foot 8 inches tall and weigh 200 lbs. If I was any larger in any other sizes I simply would not fit. My Wife is slightly smaller than I am so she will fit which is all I was worried about. My Dnepr Sidecar is huge in comparison. I think my 562 will be a good fit for the Honda as it's a 600cc bike so a smallish Sidecar is what it needs.   

[No activity?]

I'm in the beginning stages of a new project. I found a Velorex 562 sidecar in a barn for $350 in not to bad shape. I diden't try to talk him down or anything. Just handed him the money, loaded it in the truck, and took off before anyone else showed up and knew anything about what a sidecar like that costs even used. I've gotten it cleaned up and all the hardware ready to clamp it to a motorcycle. I have a 2006 Honda VT600 Shadow (The Little Shadow) and I'm in the process of fabricating a sub-frame for the bike because there's no way to mount the sidecar to it properly otherwise. I've got it about half done spending a lot of time on a heavy peace of 1/4" angle iron machining slots for U-bolts and cutting it down to size and clearance cuts to fit on the bikes frame. Then I've got to make some support brackets for a 1" steel pipe the sidecar clamps will clamp on for both lower mounts. Upper mounts will be fabricated too. I looked at a few Youtube videos of sidecars attached to a Honda VT600 Shadow like mine and all of them looked really janky. I noticed one that had the rear upper mount attached to the bikes swing arm with a swivel joint on it. You know driving it like that had to be a really frighting thing to do. None of them actually showed the bike driving around. They were all just walk around videos and telling how they could mount their sidecar's to any motorcycle.

[No activity?]

10 hours ago, RussN said:

I've not read any activity here in several days. 

Is everyone really out riding, or is my computer playing tricks on me??

I've been riding my Retro Rig with great pleasure.

'Hoping everyone is staying safe and healthy,

RussN

I think everyone is busy making up for a lost year due to the Beer Virus. Everything is beginning to get back to normal here in Alabama. 

[New shoes for the Dnepr. Shinko SR241 trail tires.]

FedEx delivered 4 Shinko SR241 tires size 3.5-19. I was going to buy Duro HF308's but they are out of stock and after several calls no one would say when they would be back in stock. Back when I started restoring my Dnepr MT-11 I purchased 4 Shinko 240 100/90-19 black wall classic tires on sale. They are street only tires and at the time that's what I wanted.  I have a little over 9,000 Km on them now. 2 are right at the wear limit with one being the sidecar tire and the other the spare. The one in the current pusher position looks like it will hit that minimum wear limit in another 1,000 Km. The front tire when it's time to become the pusher will go about 2,500 Km. Needless to say they have been and still are good tires but are quickly getting to the point where they must be replaced. I thought about buying another set of those but then I found an Amazon review post from a guy with a Chang Jiang sidecar motorcycle raving about the Shanko SR241 tires he ordered and installed. He said they were almost exactly the same as the 3.75-19 USSR tires in width, height, and tread pattern. After mine arrived I went ahead and mounted one on the rim I use as the spare tire. He was correct except the tread depth is deeper than the original Ukrainian made USSR tires that were on my Dnepr when I got it. Needless to say they were completely dry rotted but the tire used as the spare still retained it's shape and didn’t have flat spots from sitting in one spot for 27 years. I actually kept it as a wall hanger in the shop. Despite the SR241 tires saying it's 3.5-19 I measured the width after mounting it on the rim and filling with air. It measures 4 inches wide at it's widest point. That's exactly what the 3.75-19 USSR tire measures. According to the reviews about this tire it wears about the same as any other motorcycle tire. If it's the same as my near worn out Shinko 240 tires I'll be very pleased. I do rotate the tires as per my Dnepr owner/service manual that came with it. Oh! They can be used front or rear and have no rotation arrows so I think they will be fine as Sidecar Motorcycles tires.

   

[Mikuni carbs adjustment on ‘95 ural/dnepr]

Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, hold a container under it, and turn the petcock on. You should get a nice flow of fuel. Other than that you must remove the float bowl to access the needle valve, float, and be able to check the passage for obstruction between the fuel inlet hose connection and the needle valve seat. You could also have clogged jets and passages connected to them. Carburetors like the ones you have are not complicated and can be reassembled in only one way. Just make sure you have a clean area to work on when taking the carburetor apart and have small containers for keeping the small parts in while it is apart. 

There are several reasons the cylinder can make noises. Someone experienced can usually determine what is causing them. It could be a vacuum leaks between the carburetor and head intake port. The valve lash may be set too tight or even too loose. There could be a leaking head gasket or the valves may be leaking. The carburetor needle valve my not completely stop fuel flow when the fuel bowl is full or the needle valve may be sticking every now and then causing the carburetor float bowl level to drop causing a too lean condition resulting in noise and when the noise is made it jars the needle loose allowing the float bowl fuel lever to rapidly return to normal. You've just got to look at everything to find the problem.  

[Inquiry on K-750 wiring and gearbox, plus damper.]

I don't have any diagrams that are not already available on this site and on the internet via a search. It's really not all that complicated. It looks complicated when you look at all the wires and connections as one big puzzle but if you work on only one circuit at a time it's really simple. It's just several circuits all located in one place with a couple of  them going through the main switch and others just going to light bulbs. The oil pressure switch is just a simple circuit that is connected to the battery through the main switch, then the oil pressure bulb, and ending at the oil pressure switch on the engine that is closed when the oil pressure is low allowing the electrons to flow and stop when the oil pressure is normal because the oil pressure switch has opened. When I was young my Uncle told me to think of electrical circuits like pipes with water flowing through them except for electrical circuits where it's electrons flowing through wires. Think of electric switches as valves to let water through when open and stopped when closed except that's backwards for electron flow. When a switch is open electrons can't go through and when the switch is closed the electrons can pass through it freely. The battery is like a storage tank of water and the alternator pumps electrons like water to refill the tank or battery. Also you can think of a light bulb as a water fall or shower. When the bulb is on it's spraying electrons like water that you can see with your eyes and when it's off there are no electrons or water to spray.   An example using the colors shown in the diagram you posted find the positive post of the battery with the blue wire. On the diagram that wire going into the headlight shell is connected to the key switch (5). If you look at the wire that is connected between the battery post and the key switch and find it a different color then you would need to use tape and an ink pin to label it so you know what it actually connects to. If you step through each wire tracing it to the connections shown in the diagram one at a time labelling them with tape and ink if the wire colors are different before you know it you'll have everything correct. Don't get in a hurry and if you get frustrated just stop, put it away, and sleep on it. Once I was trying to install an engine in a car and simply could not get the transmission shaft through the clutch disc splines. I fought it for hours and walked away to do something else. The next day I took hold of the engine and pushed it a little and the shaft went through the clutch disc splines with almost no effort. It's the same with electrical work. If you get frustrated go do something else and come back when you are not frustrated and you have a clear mind. That's when the magic happens!

 

[Inquiry on K-750 wiring and gearbox, plus damper.]

After so many years and so many people working on the bike I'd say the colors mean nothing. Worse it may have a new main switch that is nothing like the original and was replaced with a new switch from another model motorcycle. You just don't know until you start tracing it all out, which you will need to do. The easiest way to go about it is buy or make a simple test light connected to a 6 volt battery if you are keeping the motorcycle 6 volts or a 12 volt battery if you plan on upgrading to a 12 volt system. You can use one of the warning lights in the headlight as your test lamp. Start with the main switch in off position and check all connections making sure that none turn on your test light. Then switch it to ignition on and find the terminals that light up and mark them. Some main switches have a parking lights on position.  That position turns off the ignition power and turns on the tail lights and front clearance lights and allows the key switch to be removed. The other electrical devices in the headlight bucket are warning lights, the headlight, fuse, and the small clearance or parking light in the head light reflector. It's all shown in the electrical schematic you posted so once you figure out the terminals using your test light setup then you can see what colors they used. You could then keep whatever is there or change them to match what colors are shown. Here is a drawing of the test light setup with the switch being whatever switches are closed or open for the chosen position.

[WTB left side battery cover]

Are you in the USA? A location would help as this forum has international users. If you are in the USA you might check with https://www.heindlengineering.com/

They are a large Ural dealer that take Ural motorcycles on trade and also buy them. Some older Urals with bad major parts such as engines, gear boxes, and final drives they part out and so I'm sure they may have a used battery cover they would sell. You may also ask for one at https://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/index.php

in the Black Market sub section. There are a lot of Ural Dealers that post and watch that forum for people needing Ural Parts.

A warning about that forum however. There are people over there who will deride you. A few have gone to the Ural factory for a tour and are now "experts" on all Russian Motorcycles and with that comes that special attitude. Also don't expect any real help like you get here. I served at the Annsiton Army Depot during my time in the US Army in the M1 Abrams Tank program and after Desert Storm and Iraqi Freedom worked on Captured Russian Equipment including T-72 Tanks, BMP's, Trucks, and Motorcycles including Ural, Dnepr, and MZ rebuilding everything for Training Grounds Like Fort Irwin and Twentynine Palms. I was promptly informed over at Soviet Steeds I was posting Bull Crap in the few posts I made trying to help so I no longer go there. It's a total waste of time if you are looking for help fixing your Motorcycle or even trying to help others.  

[Inquiry on K-750 wiring and gearbox, plus damper.]

If you can't drive it on the road you could put the stand down and run it through the gears with the tire off the ground. That could give you an indication of proper shifting and clutch operation as well as checking the engine oil pressure and if the carburetors are setup correctly. The speedometer will function with the tire off the ground so you can watch it so you don't over speed the engine. If you hook up the alternator with a battery and regulator you can test it as well when it's running. Just connect a volt meter to the battery and if the voltage is around 14 VDC above idle the alternator and it's regulator is working. I hope you can get it running and driving and have it ready to go when you can start driving and register your Motorcycle. You will always remember your first motorcycle the rest of your life. Be sure and take a picture of you and the motorcycle together because you will find joy in it when you get old like me. Working on and getting that first motorcycle going makes it even better. I had to fix my first motorcycle too. It was about to be taken to a scrap metal yard when I asked if I could take it, and he let me.

Soviet Steeds forum is filled with rich people that only know how to pay others to work on their motorcycles. It's also useless to try to help them because their mechanic shop fixes their motorcycles for them and no one else can do it as well in their opinion.   

[Inquiry on K-750 wiring and gearbox, plus damper.]

Do not be worried about going into the gear box. It's very simple in there. You will more than likely need new gaskets and seals if the bike has been sitting a long time. I have no idea why they have a zip tie on the clutch lever unless they thought it would spring apart when they removed the clutch cable.

You need to pull out the clutch throwout bearing assembly and inspect it. Simply remove the Carter or split pin holding the axle for the clutch arm. Then remove the axle and then the clutch arm. Then pull out the plug the clutch arm pushes in and below that you will find a ring of ball bearings captured in a plastic or brass ring between two flat bearing plates the balls ride on when the handlebar clutch lever is pulled in. Don't be surprised if it's damaged. This is one of those assembly’s you keep as ready spare parts. The problem is mostly with the operator sitting stopped with the gear box in first gear and the engine idling. The throw out bearing assembly is located above the gear box oil level and receives oil only when the input or output gears are rotating. When you come to a stop for a red light or stuck in non moving situations you should always find neutral and release the handlebar clutch lever. This will allow the input gears to spin with the engine slinging oil inside the gear box to lubricate everything including the clutch throw out bearing assembly so it will have oil in it ready for you to pull the clutch lever in and start the bike rolling again.

The out put shaft turns when the gear box is in neutral without being connected to the final drive from the viscosity of the oil in the gear box. It creates a sloppy sort of fluid drive between the gears in the gearbox.

If the bike has been sitting then as others have commented the clutch plates could be stuck together or the throw out bearing could be damaged.

Here is a drawing of the clutch throw out bearing assembly.

 

[Inquiry on K-750 wiring and gearbox, plus damper.]

Some Dnepr Gear boxes have a semi automatic function. When you press down on the toe or heal pad a pin below the clutch throw out bearing arm presses the clutch arm disengaging the clutch for you. You can not use it in first gear with the bike stopped! In that case you must use the handlebar clutch lever to get the bike rolling. It does not work for the reverse gear as well. To use the semi automatic clutch function when up or down shifting and the bike is moving simply let off the throttle completely, press down firmly on the toe or heal shifting lever, then gently and slowly take pressure off the shifting lever as you add throttle just as you would do using the hand clutch lever. It's typically used when a firm grip on the handlebars is required. You can up or down shift without needing to remove a "Death Grip" on the left handlebar grip. Remember that Dnepr Motorcycles were originally built for military service and so the Driver may be operating the motorcycle at fearful speed on poor or no roads and loosening the grip on the handlebar could be dangerous under those conditions. There is an adjustment bolt and locking nut that needs to be adjusted properly if you intend to use the semi automatic clutch function. On the end of the clutch lever part #KM3-8.15503611 (Throwout bearing clutch arm) is a bolt and locking nut. The head of the bolt should be touching a pin sticking out of the gear box. Pressing this pin in with a long screw driver should indicate a necessary small gap. A small spring keeps pressure on that pin. The gap should be about the thickness of two credit or bank cards. You must check this clearance regularly! As the clutch wears from use that gap is reduced unlike the handlebar lever where the cable slack increases. If the gap disappears completely the clutch can slip and be burned up. If you do not intend to  use the semi-automatic function simply run the adjustment bolt into the clutch lever so the gap is very wide. To test for proper function simply press the toe pad down into 1st gear with your foot while you are standing beside the bike and push it forward. The clutch should be pressed in allowing you to push the bike forward without the clutch dragging at all as if the gear box is in neutral. When you take your foot off the toe pad the clutch should engage with the gear box remaining in 1st gear. When parked with the engine off with the bike in first gear you will need to pull in the hand clutch lever in order to find neutral for starting the bike running. It's very difficult to find neutral on bikes with semi-automatic Dnepr gear boxes without pulling in the hand clutch lever to defeat it's operation when not desired.    

[WTB windsheild and skirt for sidecar]

On 2/17/2021 at 7:47 PM, dmb said:

Not a bad thing to have this week for sure. 

It's nice for the Monkey if you have one, but not for the Driver. The sidecar windshield provides the Driver with a nice flow of air.... OK in the summer but not so much in winter. It also guides rain water into the driver as well. I like the design because it lies flat when there is no Monkey in the sidecar. A Happy Monkey in the sidecar is a joy despite the extra wind and water.

[1998 Ural Speedometer buzzing and flipping wildly]

The new speedometers used on Ural's are 85mm. The old Speedometers used on older Urals and Dneprs are 80mm so the new ones will not fit and they don't make them anymore. When they do show up at sites that sell older Ural or Dnepr parts they are used rebuilt units and are expensive. My Dnepr speedometer works (sort of) but is inaccurate, like all of them. I used a cheap digital bicycle speedometer on my Dnepr that's very accurate and was easy to mount. A magnet attached to the wheel passing by a small pickup sensor tells the speedometer the wheel has rotated one revolution. It's tiny micro computer calculates speed and distance using that information and the wheels diameter you input into it when you set it up. It's very accurate and easy to install. It has it's own internal button battery the instructions say you need to replace once a year. No wiring into the motorcycles electrical system or anything like that. Simple, cheap, easy to use, and easy to install. The on;y thing I had to make was a holder for the magnet because the spokes are way to large to fit the bicycle spokes it was designed for. It has a selection in the setup menu for displaying Kilometres or Miles. We use miles here in the USA so that's what I set mine for. It has a trip odometer which can be used as a sort of fuel gauge. When I fill up the gas tank I reset the trip odometer and when I've gone 140 miles I know I'm close to needing to switch to reserve and fill up once again.

[WTB windsheild and skirt for sidecar]

I found this Ural sidecar windshield and skirt along with a sidecar cover on a Chinese Chang Jiang parts site for $170. Note that it's for older Ural sidecars with the old mounts. I have no idea what shipping would cost or the quality of it due to it being of Chinese manufacture. I've never ordered anything from that site so you throw the dice if you do. Considering how much Ural America wants for a sidecar windshield setup $170 is cheap in comparison and I don't know if they even sell one for older Ural sidecars if that is what you have. If you have a newer sidecar with the oval "twist to lock" attachment system this windshield kit will not fit. Again if you order it you are rolling the dice due to it being Made in China so Buyer Beware. I've thought about ordering one for my Dnepr because the Ural and Dnepr sidecars are very much alike except for trunk access and the covers for both are the same. No harm looking and that costs nothing. Here's the link.

  https://www.changjiang750sidecar.com/partshtml/01-0049_cj750_Ural_sidecar_windshield_with_sidecar_cover.html

Again I'm not saying you should buy it, assume it will fit, or the quality will be worth it assuming you receive it. This site allows you to buy via eBay and so if you did that you could get your money back with some effort if you do it that way. 

 

[1998 Ural Speedometer buzzing and flipping wildly]

5 minutes ago, NoJoe said:

Thanks both of you.  🙂

I've pulled the speedometer apart and have given the spinning bits a good few sprays of WD-40.  Hopefully I won't have to replace the bearing, but Jess certainly could make one if we needed!

I realized the speedometer needle that had fallen off was still rattling around in there...  I'm going to feel really dumb if that was getting stuck somewhere, causing the buzzing.  I've superglued the broken needle back on and I'll let it sit for a while before I accidentally break it back off again put it back together.

Hopefully I'll have this put back together in time to go do donuts in the snow in a parking lot tomorrow!

WD-40 is not a good lubricant. The WD of WD-40 stands for Water Displacing. It displaces water and prevents rust. It lubricates as long as it remains a liquid but once it evaporates it's lubrication properties disappear. 3 in 1 machine oil will work fine or a similar light machine oil such as air tool oil that you place a few drops of into the compressed air inlet of an air operated tool. 

[1998 Ural Speedometer buzzing and flipping wildly]

There is a tiny hole located in the threaded boss that holds the speedometer cable. Put a little light machine oil in it. That should cure the problem. According to the manual you should put a drop of oil in that hole once a year.

[1 or 2 wheel drive ?]

16 hours ago, Wooden Nickel said:

Davekp,

If you are in Central and need information from a reliable dealer, call Gene or Kenny at Holopaw Ural.  Either there was a misunderstanding or your dealer doesn't know diddly about Urals.  I've only owned 1 WD Urals and still my first dealer explained the 2 WD system quirks to me.

I kind of get the feeling the salesman knows nothing about Ural motorcycles. It's possible that Ural was a trade in and as you say knows nothing about it other than it has 2 wheel drive.

I'm too old now to go off road so if I were purchasing a Ural it would be a CT single wheel drive model. If I ran across a used gear-up 2 wheel drive Ural at a very good price I would buy it but might never engage the differential lock lever.

[1 or 2 wheel drive ?]

On 2WD Ural motorcycles when you engage 2 wheel drive with the lever you are locking both wheels together. You will have steering problems if you do that on pavement because both tires are firmly gripping the pavement surface. This causes the bike to go straight and makes turning very difficult because one or the other tire must lose traction in order to steer. That also puts a lot of undue pressure on the drive system. I would suggest never engaging 2 wheel drive unless you are on a lose surface where one or the other tires can easily lose traction, such as sand or gravel. Dnepr 2 wheel drive motorcycles such as the MT-16 use a different system known as split torque. There is no control to engage or disengage it. The way it works is there is an additional gear box on the sidecar wheel so the reduction gear ratio is lower than the motorcycles rear wheel. There is a freewheel on the input of that sidecar reduction gear that remains unlocked so long as the motorcycle tire is gripping the surface. When the motorcycles tire losses traction and starts slipping the sidecar freewheel automatically locks up and starts driving the sidecar tire with additional toque due to the lower gear ratio of the sidecar gear box. When the motorcycle tire stops slipping it over runs the sidecar gear box and so the freewheel unlocks automatically so you are back to single wheel drive. I added this description because some people think there is no difference between the Ural and Dnepr sidecar wheel drive systems and so they will tell you it's OK to engage 2 wheel drive on a Ural on a hard surface because 2 wheel drive is always engaged on Dnepr motorcycles with a split torque 2 wheel drive system. 

[Wheel Bearing Replacement and Spacer Orientation]

All that separation flange with it's mounting shoulder does is keep grease from migrating freely from one bearing to the other so one both have a roughly equal amount of grease. I can't see where placing it in one direction or the other would make any difference. It's just a pressed on fit on the bearing spacer. After I acquired my my Dnepr MT-11 I took all 4 wheel hub bearing assembly’s out to clean and repack them. They had never been apart from the factory. 2 hubs had the separator flange shoulders pointed in one direction and the other two the opposite direction. All four were very lacking in the amount of grease on each bearing. It was obvious whoever assembled them put a single finger in the grease tub and wiped it on the outside of the bearings and called it good enough. No packing grease through the roller pins and cages at all. The Ural hubs are exactly the same internally as Dnepr hubs and parts are interchangeable using common bearings and hardware between them. 

[Ural 650 with intermittent spark]

On 2/3/2021 at 12:03 PM, z400d3 said:

Some very interesting information in the feedback which is appreciated ... Thanks Gents

The sovek unit turned out to be faulty, a replacement is on the way but in the meantime, the points with a jap condenser are working just fine

I have ordered a Thorcap condenser (mentioned on SS) and will report back once I've had a chance to test it out

The original condensor that came with my points ignition system developed a leak. Yes, I said it had a leak and that's not a mistake. I noticed the engine was getting hard to start and so pulled a spark plug to check the spark across the gap. It was weak and missed jumping the gap sometimes. I pulled the timing cover and noticed the condensor had developed a wax leak. You could see where it was easing out of a split in the metal body of the condensor. They use wax as an insulator between thin sheets of aluminium wound in a spiral to make them. I went to a small engine shop near me and picked up a new condensor and strong sparks across the spark plug gaps was returned along with easy, one kick starting after the three pre-lube kicks.

[Ural 650 with intermittent spark]

7 hours ago, Serious Black said:

I'm not a great fan of Sovek ignitions these days but that doesn't sound like the usual problem with them. Did you use a new coil or keep the points one? It's usually termed the "dog " coil for obvious reasons and is about as good at sparks as one. Used to fit Harley 5 ohm coils then went to 3.5ohm or Honda coils. Lately after some ignition failure I've taken a closer look at coil primary resistance. These days I use Boyer Brandsen ignitions meant for Norton Comandos. The maths tell me to use a 4ohm coil with the regulator I'm using. Kawaski coil fit the bill. I'm going to look harder at coils for Sovek ignitions as the ones supplied vary wildly in resistance, some being very low. Personally, If I had your bike I'd look at new rings or Chinese pistons. There are excellent rings available from Poland. Avoid the Ukranian ones. Russian one are so-so.

My MT-11 came with points ignition and a red dog poo coil that actually made good spark, until it diden't. It left me stranded in a parking lot. It was running just fine until I was finished shopping and attempted to start it. I put in the new spare points and condensor I keep in the tool bag but it was still dead. I got it home after using the few Russian curse words I learned and calling my wife to come get us. I obtained a Harley ignition coil and got it running again. I did an autopsy on the red dog poo coil by carefully cutting away the red varnished cloth cover and found the problem. The solder used to connect the fine copper secondary coils to the thicker copper wires that connect to the screw terminals that poke out of the red cloth had corroded and failed because the red varnished cloth had not sealed up the internals of the coil at all. I did find something interesting in it's construction. There is one primary coil wrapped around the then metal strips of steel that connects to the 12 volts positive terminal and the terminal that connects to the points. Around that coil are two coils separated by an insulated separation disc. They are connected to each other through that insulated separation disc with the other ends of the coils connected to the terminals that connect to the spark plug wires. What you have are two 6 volt secondary coils connected in series inside that red dog poo ignition coil that share a single primary coil.