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Scott E

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About Scott E

  • Rank
    Active Member
  • Birthday 03/30/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Weaver, Alabama

Previous Fields

  • My Bike(s)
    Dnepr MT-11 2006 Honda (VLX) VT600CD with Vetter Windjammer fairing, bags, and trunk.
  • My Story
    Found a Dnepr MT-11 in a barn with 194 Km with factory assembly problems. Took it all apart and put it back together correctly with new parts as needed.

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  1. Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, hold a container under it, and turn the petcock on. You should get a nice flow of fuel. Other than that you must remove the float bowl to access the needle valve, float, and be able to check the passage for obstruction between the fuel inlet hose connection and the needle valve seat. You could also have clogged jets and passages connected to them. Carburetors like the ones you have are not complicated and can be reassembled in only one way. Just make sure you have a clean area to work on when taking the carburetor apart and have small containers fo
  2. I don't have any diagrams that are not already available on this site and on the internet via a search. It's really not all that complicated. It looks complicated when you look at all the wires and connections as one big puzzle but if you work on only one circuit at a time it's really simple. It's just several circuits all located in one place with a couple of them going through the main switch and others just going to light bulbs. The oil pressure switch is just a simple circuit that is connected to the battery through the main switch, then the oil pressure bulb, and ending at the oil pressu
  3. After so many years and so many people working on the bike I'd say the colors mean nothing. Worse it may have a new main switch that is nothing like the original and was replaced with a new switch from another model motorcycle. You just don't know until you start tracing it all out, which you will need to do. The easiest way to go about it is buy or make a simple test light connected to a 6 volt battery if you are keeping the motorcycle 6 volts or a 12 volt battery if you plan on upgrading to a 12 volt system. You can use one of the warning lights in the headlight as your test lamp. Start with
  4. Are you in the USA? A location would help as this forum has international users. If you are in the USA you might check with https://www.heindlengineering.com/ They are a large Ural dealer that take Ural motorcycles on trade and also buy them. Some older Urals with bad major parts such as engines, gear boxes, and final drives they part out and so I'm sure they may have a used battery cover they would sell. You may also ask for one at https://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/index.php in the Black Market sub section. There are a lot of Ural Dealers that post and watch that forum for people
  5. If you can't drive it on the road you could put the stand down and run it through the gears with the tire off the ground. That could give you an indication of proper shifting and clutch operation as well as checking the engine oil pressure and if the carburetors are setup correctly. The speedometer will function with the tire off the ground so you can watch it so you don't over speed the engine. If you hook up the alternator with a battery and regulator you can test it as well when it's running. Just connect a volt meter to the battery and if the voltage is around 14 VDC above idle the alterna
  6. Do not be worried about going into the gear box. It's very simple in there. You will more than likely need new gaskets and seals if the bike has been sitting a long time. I have no idea why they have a zip tie on the clutch lever unless they thought it would spring apart when they removed the clutch cable. You need to pull out the clutch throwout bearing assembly and inspect it. Simply remove the Carter or split pin holding the axle for the clutch arm. Then remove the axle and then the clutch arm. Then pull out the plug the clutch arm pushes in and below that you will find a ring of ball
  7. Some Dnepr Gear boxes have a semi automatic function. When you press down on the toe or heal pad a pin below the clutch throw out bearing arm presses the clutch arm disengaging the clutch for you. You can not use it in first gear with the bike stopped! In that case you must use the handlebar clutch lever to get the bike rolling. It does not work for the reverse gear as well. To use the semi automatic clutch function when up or down shifting and the bike is moving simply let off the throttle completely, press down firmly on the toe or heal shifting lever, then gently and slowly take pressure of
  8. It's nice for the Monkey if you have one, but not for the Driver. The sidecar windshield provides the Driver with a nice flow of air.... OK in the summer but not so much in winter. It also guides rain water into the driver as well. I like the design because it lies flat when there is no Monkey in the sidecar. A Happy Monkey in the sidecar is a joy despite the extra wind and water.
  9. The new speedometers used on Ural's are 85mm. The old Speedometers used on older Urals and Dneprs are 80mm so the new ones will not fit and they don't make them anymore. When they do show up at sites that sell older Ural or Dnepr parts they are used rebuilt units and are expensive. My Dnepr speedometer works (sort of) but is inaccurate, like all of them. I used a cheap digital bicycle speedometer on my Dnepr that's very accurate and was easy to mount. A magnet attached to the wheel passing by a small pickup sensor tells the speedometer the wheel has rotated one revolution. It's tiny micro comp
  10. I found this Ural sidecar windshield and skirt along with a sidecar cover on a Chinese Chang Jiang parts site for $170. Note that it's for older Ural sidecars with the old mounts. I have no idea what shipping would cost or the quality of it due to it being of Chinese manufacture. I've never ordered anything from that site so you throw the dice if you do. Considering how much Ural America wants for a sidecar windshield setup $170 is cheap in comparison and I don't know if they even sell one for older Ural sidecars if that is what you have. If you have a newer sidecar with the oval "twist to loc
  11. WD-40 is not a good lubricant. The WD of WD-40 stands for Water Displacing. It displaces water and prevents rust. It lubricates as long as it remains a liquid but once it evaporates it's lubrication properties disappear. 3 in 1 machine oil will work fine or a similar light machine oil such as air tool oil that you place a few drops of into the compressed air inlet of an air operated tool.
  12. There is a tiny hole located in the threaded boss that holds the speedometer cable. Put a little light machine oil in it. That should cure the problem. According to the manual you should put a drop of oil in that hole once a year.
  13. I kind of get the feeling the salesman knows nothing about Ural motorcycles. It's possible that Ural was a trade in and as you say knows nothing about it other than it has 2 wheel drive. I'm too old now to go off road so if I were purchasing a Ural it would be a CT single wheel drive model. If I ran across a used gear-up 2 wheel drive Ural at a very good price I would buy it but might never engage the differential lock lever.
  14. On 2WD Ural motorcycles when you engage 2 wheel drive with the lever you are locking both wheels together. You will have steering problems if you do that on pavement because both tires are firmly gripping the pavement surface. This causes the bike to go straight and makes turning very difficult because one or the other tire must lose traction in order to steer. That also puts a lot of undue pressure on the drive system. I would suggest never engaging 2 wheel drive unless you are on a lose surface where one or the other tires can easily lose traction, such as sand or gravel. Dnepr 2 wheel drive
  15. All that separation flange with it's mounting shoulder does is keep grease from migrating freely from one bearing to the other so one both have a roughly equal amount of grease. I can't see where placing it in one direction or the other would make any difference. It's just a pressed on fit on the bearing spacer. After I acquired my my Dnepr MT-11 I took all 4 wheel hub bearing assembly’s out to clean and repack them. They had never been apart from the factory. 2 hubs had the separator flange shoulders pointed in one direction and the other two the opposite direction. All four were very lacking
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